Completed Project Turboexplorer's Full Width SAS Build Thread

Hello everybody! It's time to start the SAS on my Explorer. It will be an awesome project and the first project of this type and size that I have ever undertaken. Up to this point the sliders where the hardest thing that I have made myself. I am open to any suggestions and or insights from anyone as the project gets underway. I have bought every last part for the build minus the hard brake lines (axles, and from master to the frame) and the flexible lines that go down to the axles. Those are all easy to make so I am not worried about it for now until I get the axles put together and can see what i want to do with those.

Now for a list of things I will be doing with the project:
1995 F-150 8.8 - I bought this used rear axle that I will strip, lock with a Detroit, convert to Explorer Disc brakes, and mount to the truck. Factory rear sway bar will be used. I will be doing a spring over conversion and will also be remaking the rear V8 anti axle wrap bars to help the leaf springs out with the leverage and TQ the V8 37's and 5.13's will put on them.
1976 F-150 HP Dana 44 - I bought this used axle and will be stripping it of the Ford factory wedges, trussing, and building custom glorified radius arms. Like DB_1 runs and like Rubicon Expresses makes. Front will also have a Detroit Truetrac LSD in it as well. This Dana 44 has 1/2" thick axle tubes.
Fox 14" Remote reservoir coil-overs - I will be building shock hoops for these coil-overs, bracing them, and tying them together across the top of the engine with removable double lock tube clamps.
1995 F-150 Steering box - This will be mounted inside the frame rail and used with the factory PS pump and will build a custom steering link from the box to the column. I picked this 1 to keep it ALL Ford and 2 because they are fairly cheap and easy and can be tapped for hydro assist at some point if I want or need it. In order to fit this steering gear I also have to remote mount my oil filter so that it has room. I will be getting rid of the factory oil cooler and have a Trans Dapt remote filter relocation kit.

Project Parts Section:
-37X13.50 R17 Interco M-16's
-Fox 14" Remote reservoir coil-overs with Eibach Springs.
-Detroit Locker for the 8.8
-Detroit Truetrac for the Dana 44
-Yukon 5.13 gears for both front and rear.
-Both axles will receive ALL new bearings races and seals u-joints etc.
-All wheel studs front and rear and spindle studs have been replaced for safety reasons. To cheap not to.
-Already had EBC brakes on it so those pads on rear will be reused and new EBC 7000 series pads for the front have been purchased.
-New front rotors wheel bearings and new Spicer ball joints, going to reuse the warn locking hubs as they work great and are in good order and easily changed later if i wanted.
-1978 Ford T-Bird calipers have been bought in place of the factory F-150 ones. They are 17% bigger in piston size so will give me a little more brake up front to help stop those 37's.
-Trans Dapt Oil filter relocation Kit and addition mount to hook to the block at a 90*.
-Currie Johnny Joints and Rubicon Express Clevite bushings for the all the link ends.
-GM 1 ton tre's for the steering with a high angle tre at the pitman arm.
-Front axle truss. (wasn't impressed with it at all so will be making some changes)
-Extending current Expedition rear drive shaft and will have a custom double cardon one made for the front.
-Metal used: 2"X.250 wall DOM for lower links, 1 1/2"X.250 wall DOM used for upper links, 1 1/2"X.375 wall DOM used for trac bar, and ALL tabs and brackets will be made out of 1/4" Flat plate by me.
-Double lock tube clamps for the shock hoop cross brace that uses 2 3/8" bolts on each. These are so It can be removed.
-All Grade 8 hardware will be used.
-All flexible brake lines will be braided stainless steel Teflon lined hoses.

I like to follow others projects and often find myself wanting more pictures so bare with me there will be A LOT of pictures of the build. I hope you enjoy lots of pictures as much as I do.


First some pictures of what the truck was! Then onto some parts pictures. Build will start shortly.
1998 XLT Explorer. 5.0L with the 4R70W trans. I have the 4406 T-Case. 3.73 gears with rear LSD. Goodyear 31's. Rock sliders and front skid plate. Links to those builds are in my signature.

And here is some video links! There are a few videos of me wheeling in CO with nssj2!

 

[turboexplorer]

The lower rear shock mounts tacked in place. With then being on the spring perch they will do the best at controlling the spring. Plus they are out of the way. Worked out great they clear the U bolts by plenty. The rear shocks are some 5100 series Bilsteins. They are for like a 200-2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a 4 inch lift. Still gives me 10" of shock travel like the factory Explorer ones. But are also 1 " longer. Should work great the rig they are for is about the same weight.

 

[turboexplorer]

All upper shock mount stuff is 3/16" plate. Made a plate to cover where the Explorer bull pin went and then made some shock tabs and welded them to the plate. I only welded about an inch on each side of the plate that will be plenty. That way if for some reason I need to remove it It wont be to crazy bad to cut the weld. I also had to plasma cut a hole in the shock cross member so that you could get the shock bolt in and out.

 

[turboexplorer]

Welding on the spring perches. Welded them in 3 sections and allowed them to cool between the sections try to minimize any warppage.

Welds turned out great!

 

[turboexplorer]

And remember I needed to make a new breather since I welded up the factory hole because the rear sway bar mounts where dead center on it. So I turned the axle straight down with the pan facing down and pulled the pan. Then stuck a strong shop vac in there and drilled and tapped it with the face facing down and the shop vac in there so there won't be any shavings in the diff. Way to much money in gears and locker to risk shavings in there.

New breather location.

 

[gmanpaint]

Getting closer!

Your trac bar & mounts is what I am waiting to see completed

 

[turboexplorer]

Track bar is going to be tight and interesting. It will have to go under the pitman arm and then over the diff cover. I have 2 days to complete it otherwise it will be a complete nightmare to trailer it. O man, so tomorrow the couple days begins. All I have to do to get it rolling is to mount the steering box, (mount and sleeves are made already) Cut and weld the drag link, them build the trac bar, also I need to finish the mount from the new cross member to the trans, then finish the shock hoops. I don't think I will be able to finish the cross brace before I leave but I hope to get it bent so I can at least take it home and cut and fit it. Man I thought I would get it all done but all the little things really really add up. Even then it would be 5 weeks to get all suspension steering cross member rear axle shock hoops etc all done isn't to shabby and its done right so

 

[turboexplorer]

So The hoops where done and welded to their mounts, then I tack welded them to the frame so I can measure for the height the brackets need to be.

 

[turboexplorer]

Here are the engine bay views of the shock hoops. Very tight but ended up fitting well.

 

[turboexplorer]

Here are the lower shock mounts on the axle end. They are all 1/4" mounts. Made the shorter inside one first used a coil over simulator to hold it so the tabs point right at the upper mounts to be made. That way at ride height everything is all straight.

I cut a piece of solid stock drilled it and then added a small 18 gauge spacer so that when they are fully welded they don't close up and make it super hard to get the coilover in.

 

[turboexplorer]

The lower mounts all welded on. Turned out great and they will get some cross bracing when I have the chance. But welded on each side so they aren't going anywhere.

 

[turboexplorer]

Cardboard upper mounts pattern made and made to have the coil overs in this position at 5" of compression. Ride height will be 1" taller than where the axle sits so at ride height I will have 6" of compression.

Then I transferred it to metal and got them cut up.

 

[turboexplorer]

Then I tacked all brackets in place while hoops where in the truck and the right width for the coil overs. Then I cut the tack welds on the frame for the hoops and then started to weld up the upper mounts. Most of the inner sections of all 4 tabs are welded. Tomorrow I will finish weld them and then brace them. Then back on the truck and will be final welded to the frame.

 

[Stang5lgt]

Nice work!!!

 

[jovi]

This may be a stupid question.But how did you figure out how long to make your coilover simulator?

 

[j_mazala]

Take the collapsed length of your shock and add how much bump travel you want at ride height.

Say the shocks 18" collapsed and you want 6" up travel at ride height make the simulator 24"

 

[jovi]

Take the collapsed length of your shock and add how much bump travel you want at ride height.

Say the shocks 18" collapsed and you want 6" up travel at ride height make the simulator 24"

Ok I understand that.But how do you figure out how much the coil overs compress with the weight of the explorer on them?I have a set of sway away race runners 16" with 200/350 springs.I am new at coil overs and This is a great build so I thought I would ask.I want to put coils on my first gen explorer.
Turboexplorer hope you dont mind That I asked.

 

[turboexplorer]

Thanks Stang5lgt!

And no worries about the questions. Everything to do with the coilovers and where they sit with weight is knowing your corner sprung weights. I am running 220/300 lb springs I needed them a little soft so that they would compress a long ways. This way when I go to full droop the tension will still remain on the springs. You never want the springs to loose pressure. If you do when the rig comes back down on them it can hurt the shock, coils, be loud, etc. I also wanted them soft because this rig will do mostly rocks. (I took my best guess on my sprung corner weights)

Lots goes into what the combined spring rates are and if you know the sprung weight you can then tell how far they will compress to hold that weight. Take the 2 rates and X them together in my case 300X200=60,000. Then add the two together 300+200=500. Then divide them 60,000./.500=120. So when the two springs are in series they have a combined spring rate of 120lbs per inch. So every 120 placed on them collapses them 1". Then knowing the sprung weight you can then see how far they will compress with your weight. You can make them hold it an inch higher by adjusting the preload/adjusting rings down 1". Make sense?

Anyways, for an update. It has been a crazy day I had to go take some ASE tests tonight and I passed them! I have a ton of pictures but with packing the house and being worried about the truck I don't know when I will get them up. But for a quick written update. The rear axle is fully painted and in the truck for the final time! I will hook up the sway bar and shocks and brake lines later when I get home, that stuff is easy. Rear drive shaft should be on its way here today. The front, the shock hoops are fully welded up on the upper mounts and added a brace to them to prevent them from starting to tear. Also they are back on the truck and fully welded to the frame. So all coil over mounts are done and ready to receive the coil overs. Hope to have them on tomorrow. Then the transmission cross member is fully done and welded just needed to be painted but I put the factory one back in for the trip hoe since I can put it in later. I'll spend my time making it roll able to get it on the trailer. I thought I would have it drivable but heck all the little things and TIG welds take time. But its done right so I am happy. Did get the steering box in where it needs to go. What a PITA I will explain when the pictures are posted but the mounting bolts barely clear the frame. so its hard to get it right. But that steering box plate I made is tack welded in place. That box is tight!!!!! But it fits good and clears everything. Just barely but it does! The painted lower links are back on the truck and the painted uppers will go on tomorrow. (Needed to get a bolt to spread the lower link mounts, they closed some when welded, grrr) So all that's left to get this thing roll able to get on a trailer is the drag link (not fully needed but I want it done) and the trac bar. I got the axle side trac bar bracket done today. Its not the prettiest bracket on the truck but its all 1/4" and will work great and easy. So all that's left to do between tomorrow and half of the day Wednesday is to bend the track bar itself, tap the tube for the axle side JJ, make the frame side mounts and weld the tube to the bushing on the frame side. Lol, wish me luck

 

[Stang5lgt]

Did get the steering box in where it needs to go. What a PITA I will explain when the pictures are posted but the mounting bolts barely clear the frame. so its hard to get it right. But that steering box plate I made is tack welded in place. That box is tight!!!!! But it fits good and clears everything. Just barely but it does!

Yeah I spent a lot of time getting that steering box in there. Had to grind down the frame to clear the rear top and lower bolt, frame is tad too big right there. LOL It will be worth the effort! Also when I snagged that Dana 60 it had a factory 20 inch track bar on the F350 never seen that other then on the Merc and TNT in person. Since I lifted my Super Duty it has bump steer like a mother going switch it to the baby track bar when I fix it. I drove TNT for the first time at speed never got chance to take it anywhere other then around the block. It uses the little 22" high mount track bar and it drives like a dream. No bump steer, no death wobble, and no steering stabilizer shock. Hope you get everything moved safely home! Be safe!

 

[crazyflights]

You may want to consider a rear truss on a full witdh 8.8. I have bent regular explorer 8.8s and really bent my fullwitdh 8.8. I would highly recommend a truss. I wish I would have. Everything is still looking awesome!!

 

[turboexplorer]

Yeah I spent a lot of time getting that steering box in there. Had to grind down the frame to clear the rear top and lower bolt, frame is tad too big right there. LOL It will be worth the effort! Also when I snagged that Dana 60 it had a factory 20 inch track bar on the F350 never seen that other then on the Merc and TNT in person. Since I lifted my Super Duty it has bump steer like a mother going switch it to the baby track bar when I fix it. I drove TNT for the first time at speed never got chance to take it anywhere other then around the block. It uses the little 22" high mount track bar and it drives like a dream. No bump steer, no death wobble, and no steering stabilizer shock. Hope you get everything moved safely home! Be safe!

I got the trac bar built today it ended up at 30 1/2" long. That is the same length as the drag link. But If I need to it can very easily shortened as well. The narrow JJ on the axle side is thread straight into the DOM so I can cut and re thread if I ever needed to easily.

Thanks, I will be a long move but will be good. I can't wait to get back to Utah. Around friends and family. I am hoping that it wont take long to get it fully finished up. Really a few small braces the intermediate shaft the steering box finished the brake lines the PS lines and then the brace across the engine for the shock hoops and it will be done. Its a lot but its all small and should go quick.

Glad it will be on a trailer instead of a maiden voyage of 400 miles not knowing the new truck.