Another OHV M90 build

[jd4242]

I'll be discussing options with Tim. I think I'll have to be careful with this one. I don't think my wife will be happy. Maybe I can hide the transition, and she might not notice the modified hood. At least if she does, it will be too late. This way, I only live the pain once. :shifty_ey

Hahahahha I feel you.I've got a full shop basically at my house but have been bringing my ranger to my works shop and working it on there.sad we can just work at our house and modify it all we want

 

[Dono]

In fairness, we are pretty over the top with the stuff were doing. It might even be easier for me to do if it was a pure toy. Tough to know. Its all a great learning experience though.

 

[phix-]

Don,

Did I ever send you my $5 solution pictures? I went the "import"/old school route and just put 2 3/4" spaces and some larger washers at each end for bracing. Have not had issues since, I was worried about rain for awhile but I saw about a 10-12 degree drop at idle stops. I also learned that my blackmagic fan controller will need to be swapped out for SPAL's PWM which allows for 2 fans. 2nd will be trans cooler fan about 8" maybe 10" if I can fit it. I bring this up because, I was having some weird heat soak issues. Something to consider is the tape you used on your airbox, although this is just my opinion, I imagine using the VHT ceramic header paint vs. the tape will have better results. I found a thread here with the dimensions of what I needed to make the first part of my sealed airbox. Once its complete, I plan on primer+paint time for the airbox with said paint and also my intake tube. I have done a set of headers with the paint (they were for 91-94) when I was done so I sold them. The guy said, within 15min he could put his hand on the exhaust manifold. Which means that paint is dispersing heat quite well. JD won't remember but I bugged him about his header wrap when he did it. He seems to be skilled with it and I pretty much decided after that if I was going to do it again I would have a hot rod shop do it or something like that.

 

[Dono]

Thanks Phix,
I will need the clearance at the front of the hood. I'd love to see a picture on how yours turned out. It might be helpful.

I have my cold air intake tube wrapped in reflective foam insulation. Id hope that the foam in-between the reflective tape would be a pretty good heat barrier. You cant tell there is foam under the reflective tape by the pictures.

My cold air intake (Modified bucket) seals against my hood, and there are holes in the front of it to pull cold air. I used reflective foam sheeting for the inside of the bucket. I think it does an ok job, but definitely not perfect as yours will be. Raising the hood will definitely make it less effective.

My only issue is detonation currently, and that's down to iat's. So, getting better cooling of the M90, getting colder air to the M90, and cooling air after it has been compressed are what I'm looking at. Obviously an intercooler would be the most effective(but most expense).

James gave me the 'High intake temps now? Just wait till summer'. He's right. Its still cold here, and my iats are going to be brutally high when its actually warm out (Probably 30 degrees Fahrenheit higher). On a good day without pushing high boost, that puts me at 190. I'm starting to fully understand why intercooling is so important.

could you shoot me a pic of how your hood sits after the 'lift'? It might help with cooling of the M90.

 

[phix-]

Sure, got to go out and snap some pics when I go home later today. I lifted the back and re-adjusted my hood latch. The pitch is about a finger and half of air, my instacharge sits right at the firewall so its literally right there. At idle I had seen 142-152 temp sometimes 162 if it was stop and go. My electric fan is stuck (intentional) on, rated at 3300cfm I have seen alot more of a response. With that and the hood adjustment, at constant speed damn near ambient. Believe end of last summer I was showing 79 outside on the way home and 80-82 iats. Now 140 is my peak and I see 110-15 or 120-30 when I am playing around with a mustang that thinks my grocery getter isn't going to get up and walk away. By the way that is probably the best feeling since I got this thing to the point where it should be.

Almost forgot.. I was changing my front shocks recently and found the passenger 02 sensor plastic connection laying on my header down pipe. Since that was zip-tied to safety. My idle issue is gone.

 

[Dono]

Congratulations Phix!
Sounds like you worked thru the kinks.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

These people make that hood for way cheaper.idk if you missed the links or what.
http://www.andysautosport.com/ford/...or/hoods/fiberglass_hoods/unlimited_products/

http://www.up22.com/ranger.htm
There is a guy on here that was running the m90 but went to a m112 and is running this hood.I can't find it now but its a green second gen.

the only problem i have with "cheep fiberglass hoods" is, the reason why they are cheep is because they are built cheep. have seen a few people run down the 1/4 mile, then the hood flys off, and smashes into a million parts.

Driving to work today (In my mental fog), I was looking at my hood lines(I know, not the safest). I think I see what Tim's talking about.

He wants to take another hood and first, cut the center bulge out that goes up the middle. Then he wants to cut an even strip out from the center (Top to bottom) and join it together. That would give perfect symmetry on the hood lines, showing either a single rise in the hood that's twice the height of the factory bulge(cowl) or a double rise that the lines are in symmetry. Sorry, I know pictures would make all the difference.

Its interesting that the aftermarket hoods say they are only for 1995 to 1997. A second gen is 95-01. Is there a difference in 2nd gen's on the hoods?

nailed it. the only metal i would ad would be on the sides. i would even leave the brace on the part that i cut.
as for the other years, the latch is different.

This guy made a pretty sweet one

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=366987

yup, something like that.

My fab and body working skills are not up to that task!

me either, but i have LOTS of bondo!

I'll be discussing options with Tim. I think I'll have to be careful with this one. I don't think my wife will be happy. Maybe I can hide the transition, and she might not notice the modified hood. At least if she does, it will be too late. This way, I only live the pain once. :shifty_ey

see, here's the beauty of this. we bring your truck here, figure out how high it will need to be. i can start chopping up one of my spare hoods, get everything done on it, paint it, then bring your truck back here and slap it on. i will almost bet she wouldnt notice for a week or two. or even say, "well dear, that was always like that. didnt you ever notice?" hea hea.....she's going to start hating me big.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

oh yea, just to be upfront right now, this will take a few weeks to build it. just wanted to let you know now so your not thinking, "whats taking him so long?!"

 

[Dono]

oh yea, just to be upfront right now, this will take a few weeks to build it. just wanted to let you know now so your not thinking, "whats taking him so long?!"

Only a few weeks? That's pretty fast.

 

[Dono]

Ron sent me a quick picture of what he was thinking of doing. The inlet and outlet would come off the front of the mount. Problem is, my water neck is in the way on one side. I'm guessing if there will be enough room at that water neck. I cant cut it and twist it anymore, as the rad hose is tight against the radiator.

The pic with the radiator is the mount upside down showing where the inlet/outlet would be on the front. Think the one hose connection would work by the water neck? its going to be close.

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

I think you should keep it as factory as possible. A cowl hood is subtle but you have a stock look and I like that(not that it matters of course). Id make every effort to cut the guts of the hood and leave the sheet metal be. However, driveability is key. I'm looking forward to what your solution is.

 

[Dono]

I think we have a winning combo here.
The heater core is about 7.5 x 7.5 by 1 3/4. That should provide tons of core area for heat transfer.
I can't see anything on the drivers side that could possibly be in the way of the inlet/outlet.

The new mount will sit about 2 1/2 higher. Rons roughing it on autocad to make sure its all good. I wont be doing anything on this. Ron and Tim are the guys making this happen. Im so excited My wifes going to be sooo pissed.

 

[Xeek]

Hahahahha I feel you.I've got a full shop basically at my house but have been bringing my ranger to my works shop and working it on there.sad we can just work at our house and modify it all we want

youve even started using my house as your workshop haha

sucks to be yall, i enjoy working on my stuff just by walking out the door

 

[4pointslow]

Intercooler

That is awesome!
I have one of Ron's intercooled set ups and it works!
Cant wait to see it when you post more pics.
Keep em coming!

 

[Dono]

Ron just sent me some autocad pics. Externally its dimensions are 8" by 8". The height is to be determined. Probably going to be about 2 1/2" external height.

Best part? If Im looking at the drawings correctly, it will sadwich inbetween my existing SC mount and the M90. I wouldn't be purchasing a whole new redesign of the mounting plate. Thats got to be a good thing (both for the labour Ron will have to put in to it, and my wallet).

Other than the impending hole in my hood, this will be a fantastic upgrade.

 

[jd4242]

Ron just sent me some autocad pics. Externally its dimensions are 8" by 8". The height is to be determined. Probably going to be about 2 1/2" external height.

Best part? If Im looking at the drawings correctly, it will sadwich inbetween my existing SC mount and the M90. I wouldn't be purchasing a whole new redesign of the mounting plate. Thats got to be a good thing (both for the labour Ron will have to put in to it, and my wallet).

Other than the impending hole in my hood, this will be a fantastic upgrade.

How wide are the four bolts that mount your sc? How are those going to go through the ic and sandwich it? Or am I missing something?

 

[Dono]

That is awesome!
I have one of Ron's intercooled set ups and it works!
Cant wait to see it when you post more pics.
Keep em coming!

All RPCasters work is first class, no question about it. Ive been watching your truck. Holy smokes! Intercooled M112. The sohc is impressive to stand up to that. Even the 5r55e to survive what you have put it thru.

 

[Dono]

JD, I emaild Ron the same questions. Im thinking he will place the rad in such a way that he will cut out a few fins for each bolt. This way, the bolts would actually pass thru the rad.

I dont know for sure. I'll let us all know if Im guessing correctly, or not. Im not sure how else Ron would do it.

 

[Dono]

I was off base on how Ron's planning it. My thinking was a bit mickey mouse, and a lot risky (leaks).

Here's Rons email back to me. He's still hard at it. A true enthusiast.

"Don,

Actually the top plate would mount first to the supercharger using recessed button screws. Access would probably be best thru bottom plate hole (prior) to attaching to intake manifold. The mounting of the bottom plate to the manifold would be by using the button screws that could be recessed and threaded into the base plate. The last item of installation would be sliding the heater core into the side of the box and screwing the (side) coverplate into position.

This item would be an accessory that install between my manifold and supercharger assembly. Only other needs would be increase serpentine belt size & increase length of the silicone bypass hose.



regards, Ron"

 

[vroomzoomboom]

i hope he gets you height dimensions soon. i am waiting for gord to call me cause he wants help on a side job, and i am not sure how long that will take. that and beginning of june, i am running off to afn again, so i am trying to figure out if i can sneak this in before, or after i leave.