Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread

[BKennedy]

New track bar angle (sorry for the crappy picture):

The pictures of the track bar frame mount did not come out very well so I will have to post some later. It is very sturdy and supported with a gusset on the frame and 1" .120 wall DOM tubing from the inside of the mount to the engine cross member. I could not go all the way across to the other frame rail with the tubing as the mount sits directly in line with the steering box's pitman arm mount. With the tubing welded to the cross member, I can still access the nut on the steering box, and the motor mount bolt.
Made some screw-on spacers for the radius arm bump stops in 1/2", 1" and 1-1/2" lengths. That way, I can pick the best bump for the suspension on the next off road trip, then weld them on when I get home.
Also did a little wiring, supported my 1999 Explorer intake at the alternator mounts, and put a bump stop in the center of the engine cross member (I could see a spot where the top of the pumpkin contacted the cross member).

A guy from Pirate who was doing a SAS in his Silverado with a F-150 axle came by and bought my old F-150 radius arms. He said he was going to use Ballistics shock hoop kit. I showed him the one hoop and all the hardware I did not use from the Ballistic kit I bought. He bought those too. He was military so I low-balled myself on the pricing.

 

[BKennedy]

Better pictures of track bar and mount:

 

[RockRanger]

I low-balled myself on the pricing.

You are good at that. Looks good Brian.

 

[BKennedy]

You are good at that. Looks good Brian.

I know, who would have thought??

My lack of confidence in my welding consistency makes me overbuild everything.

 

[BKennedy]

Does anybody see any issues with completely removing the cruise control unit from inside the engine compartment? I know I need to plug the vacuum line, but is there any problems it will cause just not being there?? I did a search and all the threads are about repairing or troubleshooting, not just taking it out. I haven't used it in at least ten years, and I want to put a windshield water bottle and an accessory fuse panel where it sits.

 

[FR-425]

No issues,

Set it next to the ABS parts, carefully!

 

[FR-425]

Double checked the wiring diagram,

The VSS has separate ground and feed wires for the PCM, so unplugging the cruise amplifier module will NOT create an open circuit.

Glad Ford didn't miss that one!

 

[BKennedy]

Thanks, it will come out tomorrow.
If only my new flat helper coil springs will show up, then I can put the suspension back together (I know if I do it with the current springs, the new springs will show up the next, or even the same day).

 

[BKennedy]

Today, I spent a few hours working on wiring and space management. Removed cruise control module (opened up a lot of space). Removed about 50 feet of unused wiring from the ABS. Relocated a few wires going to the main battery that I did a half-assed job on before going to Truckhaven. Cleaned up all the wiring on the passenger side (put them in loom, zip-tied them tight, little electrical tape, etc.).
Figured out if I modify the radiator reservoir a little more, I can fit it sideways so it doesn't rub on the shock hoop. Little JB Weld, little flat bar, few screws....will see when it gets mounted.
Figured out where to locate the secondary fuse panel and the aluminum water bottle I will be using for the new, improved windshield washer reservoir.
It also looks like I can mount the secondary battery on its side, up against the bottom of the floor where the spare tire used to reside. Only need to run one battery cable to it since I will be using a junction block within the engine compartment. I can ground it to the frame.
Installed the winch remote control box.

 

[Rick]

I still need to ditch all my ABS junk and get myself a 2nd gen mastercylinder.

Your project is helping to prod me along on that

 

[BKennedy]

I still need to ditch all my ABS junk and get myself a 2nd gen mastercylinder.

Your project is helping to prod me along on that

Get to work.

 

[Rick]

Do you have a photo of the new junction for your brake lines now that the ABS is gone? Did you add an adjustable brake bias knob or did you do anything about a proportioning valve?

 

[BKennedy]

Do you have a photo of the new junction for your brake lines now that the ABS is gone? Did you add an adjustable brake bias knob or did you do anything about a proportioning valve?

I removed all the ABS, then used the passenger front brake line to run to a braided line that goes to the center of the pumpkin. Splits to the brakes from there. Had to change the hose fitting on the master cylinder side to match the larger fitting for the front brakes. You have your brake lines dropping from both sides of the frame, so it might be a little more work. I thought it would be easier to run the lines off the axle with one central line, and it was. I had too many problems with the coil springs squeezing the extended brake lines on the TTB.
I bought the master cylinder that is not supposed to need a proportioning valve. Doing research on explorerforum.com, I found out that the 1995 master cylinder, with no proportioning valve and no cruise control is the one to get. No one had the "no cruise" MC locally, and I did not have time to wait. I got one with cruise and plugged the cruise sensor fitting. If you do get one of these, don't forget to bleed the plug as well as the brake line fittings. It is above the front brake line and traps air. I don't have a proportioning valve in the lines, it was all in the ABS pump, according to Ford. I also traced the rear brake lines to make sure there was not a line valve somewhere.

I am not satisfied with the brakes yet. Still having soft pedal pressure issues with the engine running, and I don't think those giant front calipers are working as they should. I used a level and noticed the T-bird caliper's bleeder valve sits slightly down from the banjo bolt on my axle. I think there is air in the calipers. I need to pull them off, stick a piece of wood between the brakes and bleed them with the bleeder straight up. If that doesn't correct it, then I need to adjust the push rod behind the master cylinder.

I found a 1994 Explorer electrical and vacuum service manual on line. Bought it to help me with wiring so I don't cut anything out I might need. I left some of the larger wires from the ABS controller module in place until I get the manual. I think they might be power in run, and/or constant power. I can use them for the new accessory fuse panel if that is the case. Also left a few other wires that I could not figure out until I get the manual. Most of the wires came from the ABS pump plugs and went to the controller harness, or to the brake sensors, so they all came out. The wires going to the brake sensors are actually twisted together so they were easy to identify. One set for each side in the front, then one going to the rear.

 

[Burns]

I also did the same thing you did with the new lines running to the chunk. Works really great.

If I remember it took us quite a while to bleed the brakes to get them right. Several, Several, & a few more times after that to get it just where I wanted it.

Can we get some information on your secondary fuse panel? I have been wanting to add one for some time but have never decided on a location.

 

[BKennedy]

I got a used fuse panel on ebay for a 1995 Kia (don't remember what model). I just looked until I found one I liked (compact, has flat mounting holes, etc.). It only utilized about half of the slots so I got some of the clips and made up all 18 slots. If I had not already spent all the time on this one, I would have gotten these;
http://www.delcity.net/store/Sealed-Mini-Fuse-Panels/p_803796
Its going on the drive side inner fender near where the cruise control module used to sit.
Fuse panel;

Fuse panel diagram:

Windshield washer fluid bottle;

Radiator reservoir:

Space they are going into (after I fix the wiring).

I figured out a easy way to make mounting brackets for the reservoir. I have some 1x2" tubing that I cut two 1" pieces. Drilled a 1/4" hole on one side, then drilled out the back large enough to clear the head of a 1/4" bolt. Welded bolt into tubing with the threads sticking out so it is now a stud. Mount on reservoir mounts, set it where it needs to fit, tack the tubing onto the inner fender. Remove reservoir, weld up the tubing and now I have mounting tabs spaced 1" off the fender for the wire bundles to clear the back of the reservoir.

 

[BKennedy]

Again, ignore the wiring, its going to be fixed soon.
Pictures of the windshield washer reservoir, fuse panel and radiator reservoir in their permanent locations;

The fuse panel was meant to be there as there was a threaded hole and an open hole the exact width as the panel mounting holes. Welded a weld nut into the other hole and I have a very solid mounting location.

Horse show tomorrow and the wife has Sundays reserved for her, so no more progress until after the weekend. I need to get Sarah's boyfriend over to help me bench press the transfer case before I can pull it, then pull the cross member, then clock the transfer case and re-install for mock-up of the new cross member. I think I might work on the secondary battery location and finish all the wiring first, but who knows.

I also have some ideas for a skid plate for the transmission and one for the transfer case instead of trying to use the old one. I am just planning on using steel plate and cutting around the front output on the transfer case (they should sit about even), then using weld nuts to bolt the plate directly to the cross member and the bottom of the frame. For the transmission, I was going to use just enough plate to keeps the rocks out, and weld nuts to bolt it directly to the bottom of the frame.
Question: What would you consider the thinnest metal plate to fabricate a skid plate with? It can bend and flex, but not get ripped up. Neither plate will be more than a foot long by the width of the frame. And, just for consideration, I have never hit the current transmission skid plate.

 

[RockRanger]

For thickness of the skidplate it also depends on the design. My current one is 1/8" plate with 1" square box tubing around the perimeter and a few in the field. It has a slight bow to it now. t has taken a few good hits in its day. My next one is going to be 3/16" plate with more gussets in it.

 

[BKennedy]

I was thinking about 1/8" plate. It's very rigid and not so heavy as the 3/16" stuff. I will go to the metal getting place and see what they have.

 

[RockRanger]

What ever you use make sure you add some bracing. A flat piece alone is weak but put a few ribs in it and it will strengthen right up. Maybe even put a layer of plastic on the bottom so you will slid over things easier. I have a feeling with the Solid axle you will start trying some harder things.

 

[BKennedy]

What ever you use make sure you add some bracing. A flat piece alone is weak but put a few ribs in it and it will strengthen right up. Maybe even put a layer of plastic on the bottom so you will slid over things easier. I have a feeling with the Solid axle you will start trying some harder things.

I was going to use some angle I have lying around to "X" the plate, and along both exposed edges.

I agree, having all that flex makes you brave, but I still have this silly voice of reason in my head.