99 5.0 4x4 problems

[1997XLTRollover]

Hey guys I just picked up a 99 Explorer that has some issue with the 4x4 and I'm not familiar with this setup. The switch on the dash says 2H, Auto 4x4 and 4x4 low. Can this truck actually be set to be only 2wd? If so my truck is stuck in 4x4.

I get no clicks, clunks or anything going to any of the settings. It's not in 4x4 low because it will go up to highway speed fine, and in snow it spins all 4 so I think it's stuck in normal 4x4. I checked the 4x4 switch behind the dash and it was actually unplugged, which I thought "no way I can be this lucky" and of course I wasn't. Plugged it in and it's acting the same. Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[koda2000]

if it's a 5.0L V8 there is no such thing as a 4x4. It would be AWD or RWD only. Either you don't have a 5.0L V8 or someone replaced the original radio bezel with one from a 4x4. The AWD is engaged all the time and there is no switch on the dash. there's no HI/LOW option either.

BTW, Ford uses the same wiring harness on the 2WD, 4X4 and AWD in regard to the 4X4 switch. that's why you found the wire disconnected. on the radio bezel for the AWD and 2WD there's a place that the loose wire snaps into on the back of the bezel. I'm guessing you have the wrong radio bezel.

 

[1997XLTRollover]

if it's a 5.0L V8 there is no such thing as a 4x4. It would be AWD or RWD only. Either you don't have a 5.0L V8 or someone replaced the original radio bezel with one from a 4x4. The AWD is engaged all the time and there is no switch on the dash. there's no HI/LOW option either.

I have the 5.0L V8 that part is pretty obvious. But this is what I thought because that's how my 96 is (AWD only). But why would there be wiring for the switch then?

How do I get it into RWD? Or are you saying it's automatic and only has one setting and the switch is not from this truck and the wiring is dead wiring?

 

[koda2000]

I have the 5.0L V8 that part is pretty obvious. But this is what I thought because that's how my 96 is (AWD only). But why would there be wiring for the switch then?

How do I get it into RWD? Or are you saying it's automatic and only has one setting and the switch is not from this truck and the wiring is dead wiring?

I updated my original response with more info. answers your questions. as far as getting it into RWD... you can't. AWD means All Wheel Drive all the time. 35% power to front wheels, 65% power to rear wheels.

 

[1997XLTRollover]

Ok so in that case if there is no off for my AWD which is what I thought was the case, I have a noise from my 4x4. I'll call it a hollow clunking/grinding noise. The truck does have a new front driveshaft which did not solve this issue. I have to see if there is any binding up when I turn (roads are all covered in snow here so I can't tell) but I get this mild noise when driving straight over maybe 30 mph or so.

I do remember reading something about a clicking noise on the V8's when searching but it was always the driveshaft if I recall and this shaft has already been replaced. When I pull the front shaft everything is fine when it's only running RWD.

 

[1997XLTRollover]

Just found this:

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=103691

Could it be my front diff? at only 155k miles? Maybe I should pop the fill plug out and see if it's low or something stupid like that.

 

[Turdle]

Is it possible you purchased an explorer with an electric 4406 swapped in? Did you say the switch was "plugged in" to the wiring?

Ok so in that case if there is no off for my AWD which is what I thought was the case, I have a noise from my 4x4. I'll call it a hollow clunking/grinding noise. The truck does have a new front driveshaft which did not solve this issue. I have to see if there is any binding up when I turn (roads are all covered in snow here so I can't tell) but I get this mild noise when driving straight over maybe 30 mph or so.

I do remember reading something about a clicking noise on the V8's when searching but it was always the driveshaft if I recall and this shaft has already been replaced. When I pull the front shaft everything is fine when it's only running RWD.

If it is indeed an AWD transfer case, the grinding is probably coming from either it, or the front drive shaft. Just because it has been replaced does not make it "good". I replace light bulbs all the time-and the rebuilt drive shafts are hit and miss at best.

The front diff is still turning without the drive shaft. If it was the problem you'd still hear grinding without the front drive shaft installed.

 

[1997XLTRollover]

The switch was NOT plugged in. I plugged it in thinking it may have been my issue.

The truck is a little modded, but I doubt it had the case swapped, although I guess it's something to check.

 

[masospaghetti]

Someone probably just swapped the radio bezel.

If you can crawl underneath the truck, check to see if there's a shift motor on the backside of the transfer case. The stock AWD does not have a shift motor but the 4x4 systems do.

 

[1997XLTRollover]

Someone probably just swapped the radio bezel.

If you can crawl underneath the truck, check to see if there's a shift motor on the backside of the transfer case. The stock AWD does not have a shift motor but the 4x4 systems do.

it's a got a 4" lift so yeah I can haha. I don't recall seeing a shift motor last night when I was poking around under there. I'll double check though but I have a feeling it's just a regular AWD 99 that has some 4x4 problem.

 

[koda2000]

I don't know how many more ways I can say it... you cannot turn off the front wheels and run on just the rears. All Wheel Drive = all four wheels under power all the time.

My guess is that the new front drive shaft was installed by a PO because someone had removed it. This often happens when it, or the viscous coupling in the t-case goes bad. In any event, it's probably bad now. Removing the front drive shaft is not a good option either, as PARK doesn't work very well w/out the front d/s.

 

[shadowless127]

I don't know how many more ways I can say it... you cannot turn off the front wheels and run on just the rears. All Wheel Drive = all four wheels under power all the time.

My guess is that the new front drive shaft was installed by a PO because someone had removed it. This often happens when it, or the viscous coupling in the t-case goes bad. In any event, it's probably bad now. Removing the front drive shaft is not a good option either, as PARK doesn't work very well w/out the front d/s.

I almost had my 97 Mounty creep into a massive ditch on the side of my friend's driveway the second day I got it because it didn't have the front D/S installed. I owned that truck for 8 months, and all 8 months I had creeping issues even on extremely minor inclines.

 

[1997XLTRollover]

I don't know how many more ways I can say it... you cannot turn off the front wheels and run on just the rears. All Wheel Drive = all four wheels under power all the time.

My guess is that the new front drive shaft was installed by a PO because someone had removed it. This often happens when it, or the viscous coupling in the t-case goes bad. In any event, it's probably bad now. Removing the front drive shaft is not a good option either, as PARK doesn't work very well w/out the front d/s.

I understand the difference between AWD and 4x4 bud haha. I don't know why you think I don't. My 99 is AWD. I get it, just as i thought all 96-01 5.0's were AWD which it seems they are and someone just changed my faceplate. Either way something is screwed up with my AWD system.

I almost had my 97 Mounty creep into a massive ditch on the side of my friend's driveway the second day I got it because it didn't have the front D/S installed. I owned that truck for 8 months, and all 8 months I had creeping issues even on extremely minor inclines.

I haven't had a problem with it rolling at all in park when it was in 2wd. Might be a good indication my coupling is seized.

 

[koda2000]

I meant no disrespect, but you kept asking how to disengage the front wheels. As I said multiple times you cannot, other than removing the front d/s (which is a bad idea). Good luck. I wont offer any further advise on this subject.

 

[1997XLTRollover]

I meant no disrespect, but you kept asking how to disengage the front wheels. As I said multiple times you cannot, other than removing the front d/s (which is a bad idea). Good luck. I wont offer any further advise on this subject.

Na none taken, I meant none either. I stopped asking about disengaging the 4x4 when I found out it's AWD, but someone suggested maybe it had a t-case swap done so I'm going to see if it has a shift motor. You've said the same thing 2-3 times already so I was just simply saying I get it, no need to say the same thing over and over again haha.

 

[Turdle]

Well, looks like I made a misleading post. It was merely a suggestion.

 

[1997XLTRollover]

Well, looks like I made a misleading post. It was merely a suggestion.

I didn't think it was misleading at all. Made perfect sense to me and is/was a good thought

I'm going to double check everything soon as I get a chance. Been real busy at work lately.

 

[1997XLTRollover]

So I checked the fluids in everything and everything is full. Ball joint angles look good as do the CV's as one would expect with the superlift.

The only thing I noticed odd thus far is that the front driveshaft may be at a bit of an extreme angle. Could this be my problem? Also is this a decent brand driveshaft? I have no idea where this came from but it does say made in China.

Also on the front diff end the driveshaft will move up and down. Not like the universal is loose, but if you look at the picture and grab the driveshaft it will move up and down maybe 1/8 inch or so on the rollers. Is this normal?

 

[Turdle]

The truck in question has a superlift kit?

Yeah, you need a special drive shaft for that. I think you've found the problem.

 

[1997XLTRollover]

The truck in question has a superlift kit?

Yeah, you need a special drive shaft for that. I think you've found the problem.

Hmm I've read that you can use the stock shaft but it just may wear out faster. Also I double checked what you said and I don't have a t-case swap, it's the AWD case.

Either way this is the shaft that was on the truck when I bought it so maybe the guy didn't know any better.


EDIT: Directly from Superlift's site:

"When lifted, the stock front driveshaft's life span is considerably reduced; expect a life of 25k to 30k miles. The Superlift replacement shaft is a more "lift friendly" dual cardan design."