INCOMING - Bought some Speedline Magnesium Saleen rims for 2000 Explorer Limited - ?s

[CDW6212R]

Thanks Don. I talked to Dave at EE and he said the bump stops they used for the front were the FORD parts used on the trucks with front ARC. Apparently they are a different shape and smaller than the ones on my 2000 Limited with Rear Load Leveling Suspension.

Anyone have a part number for those particular bump stops?

I ordered the rear shocks you gave me on the link and fixing to order the Bilsteins.

Thanks Don

Interesting, I hadn't heard that. I recall they looked fairly OEM quality level, but that was 2004 and I didn't notice or think to look for a part number on them. The back EE parts were unique, they looked like they may have been made by Energy Suspension, nice pieces. I'm going to have to transfer those special parts from my Mountaineer to a different one, when I find it. This one has a bit too much early rust, and I'm after another that is 100% clean.

 

[MuscleJunkie]

Interesting, I hadn't heard that. I recall they looked fairly OEM quality level, but that was 2004 and I didn't notice or think to look for a part number on them. The back EE parts were unique, they looked like they may have been made by Energy Suspension, nice pieces. I'm going to have to transfer those special parts from my Mountaineer to a different one, when I find it. This one has a bit too much early rust, and I'm after another that is 100% clean.

Ok. All shocks on the way and I'm going to look for the front stops either from Ford or maybe LKQ.

EE just put their special made rear ones back for sale so might order those as well since they are progressive.

Will post up some details at install. Looking forward to seeing any difference with the Bilsteins.

Next item up will be brakes - change to Cobra R?....

 

[CDW6212R]

The rear EE sway-bar will make the biggest difference, it's a "WOW" night and day change.

I got a big 1.5" bar on my front, it helped a little but I hadn't worked out the whole balance, do new bushings, to fully judge it all. I think the tires are the biggest key, next to that rear sway-bar.

The brakes choices are not good. I'm the only one to do really big brakes, custom thick 1.25" rotors. I'm not happy with the pad life of what the big calipers take, so I've got another caliper with very thick pads to work on making fit.

Another member did a fine job to adapt Aviator front rotors, I think the calipers too. That would be the route I would take, beside my versions. The XP8 had big brakes, but the rotors cost $800 or more, and they get eaten pretty fast by the required pads($275 themselves), in the Alcon calipers. That was an expensive upgrade, and the ongoing expense is ridiculous.

My next brakes should end up with rotors that cost about $150 each, last ages, and the pads would also be in the $200+ range, and .80" thick. here's the Wilwood GN III caliper I hope to fit. The six-piston area is large(5.4sqin), so a smaller Ranger master cylinder hopefully will be the right match.

 

[MuscleJunkie]

I have the a Saleen Bar on mine so I know what you're talking about the difference – it was huge. I'll let you know what I find out about the cobra brakes as I've heard that there might be a workable option there. Thanks for telling me about the other brake options.

The rear EE sway-bar will make the biggest difference, it's a "WOW" night and day change.

I got a big 1.5" bar on my front, it helped a little but I hadn't worked out the whole balance, do new bushings, to fully judge it all. I think the tires are the biggest key, next to that rear sway-bar.

The brakes choices are not good. I'm the only one to do really big brakes, custom thick 1.25" rotors. I'm not happy with the pad life of what the big calipers take, so I've got another caliper with very thick pads to work on making fit.

Another member did a fine job to adapt Aviator front rotors, I think the calipers too. That would be the route I would take, beside my versions. The XP8 had big brakes, but the rotors cost $800 or more, and they get eaten pretty fast by the required pads($275 themselves), in the Alcon calipers. That was an expensive upgrade, and the ongoing expense is ridiculous.

My next brakes should end up with rotors that cost about $150 each, last ages, and the pads would also be in the $200+ range, and .80" thick. here's the Wilwood GN III caliper I hope to fit. The six-piston area is large(5.4sqin), so a smaller Ranger master cylinder hopefully will be the right match.

 

[CDW6212R]

I began with the Cobra brake idea, I have a picture or two of a wooden adapter I half way finished for the calipers and rotors I have.

Then I researched the caliper piston sizes. We have close to 1.75" pistons(2), and the Alcons are that 1.75" four pots. The Cobra began with 38mm pistons(2), (45mm would be about 1.75"), and the later versions are a hair bigger.

The early Cobra calipers are too small for the Explorer, and the later versions are likely just barely adequate. The bigger 13" rotor does make a difference, on an 11" rotor the Cobra calipers would be dangerous.

The Cobra rotors have a really shallow offset, .350" versus stock at around 1.45", so the brakes end up very close to the wheels.

The Cobra brakes can be made to go on with the brackets others have made. But the brake power isn't really improved much, and the caliper ends up mighty close to the wheels.

I went after big brake power, and more rotor mass for lifespan and reliability in hard use. I got it all except for the pad life. I moved from a Corvette 65-82 caliper to an SSBC unit hoping to gain pad life. Both had typical pad sizes, so for the 4700lbs truck I didn't gain any there.

The Cobra calipers will take a typical car pad, I have a pair still boxed up for my Lincoln.

 

[MuscleJunkie]

The Front Bilstein Shocks arrived today!

 

[CDW6212R]

Very good, you'll like them. Did you also order the fifth shock? That one is tough to install, it has to be almost compressed right before you place it in the two mounts. I put the top end in and spent some time to find the right lever to use between the ground and the shock to compress it. I think I used a long pry bar.

 

[MuscleJunkie]

Very good, you'll like them. Did you also order the fifth shock? That one is tough to install, it has to be almost compressed right before you place it in the two mounts. I out the top end in and spent some time to find the right lever to use between the ground and the shock to compress it. I think I used a long pry bar.

Yes, ordered the Bilstein 5th shock and two new NOS rear load leveling shocks at the link you provided.

Also looking for the front bump stops from a 2nd gen that has front ARC. Anyone have a set they would let go of?

Thanks

 

[CDW6212R]

I'll keep an eye out for one, they pop up a couple of times a year I think, the 95-98's.

Have you found a part number yet? That's the best way to find some items, with searches online.

 

[MuscleJunkie]

I'll keep an eye out for one, they pop up a couple of times a year I think, the 95-98's.

Have you found a part number yet? That's the best way to find some items, with searches online.

Hope to have a part number tomorrow.

Thanks Don

 

[MuscleJunkie]

NOS Rear Load Leveling Shocks arrived today. Noticed that the little green insert was missing from the right shock the seller sent. Not sure if this is needed or not - but I've sent them a message.

 

[CDW6212R]

I think one of mine was gone or loose in the box. I bought two as spares.

The tiny parts in the outer part of the connection there should be interchangeable, replaceable. If it's the same as the Mark VII line connection parts, there is basically one critical component inside there. It's a fragile sealing ring, plastic, and kind of flat or concave shaped. I've not had to service any of my line connections yet, but I bought one repair kit for a Mark VII solenoid. The parts likely are different among car models, but it's possible the parts will work from another vehicle.

Just be careful when handling those tiny parts, and save what you can. The used parts can be salvaged, and if they are like other cars, basically that one part is the only wear item. I have a couple three old ARC shocks from the 98 truck that my system came from. I haven't parted them out yet, as whole shocks they aren't worth using, but they are whole.

 

[MuscleJunkie]

I think one of mine was gone or loose in the box. I bought two as spares.

The tiny parts in the outer part of the connection there should be interchangeable, replaceable. If it's the same as the Mark VII line connection parts, there is basically one critical component inside there. It's a fragile sealing ring, plastic, and kind of flat or concave shaped. I've not had to service any of my line connections yet, but I bought one repair kit for a Mark VII solenoid. The parts likely are different among car models, but it's possible the parts will work from another vehicle.

Just be careful when handling those tiny parts, and save what you can. The used parts can be salvaged, and if they are like other cars, basically that one part is the only wear item. I have a couple three old ARC shocks from the 98 truck that my system came from. I haven't parted them out yet, as whole shocks they aren't worth using, but they are whole.

So I definitely need the green thing? Just want to clarify. Hopefully the seller will send me the missing one. Can the one from my old shock be used? How does it come out?

 

[CDW6212R]

No, the green piece is the outermost part, I think it basically holds the rest in. The Mark VII piece there is orange. The old parts definitely can be used, the only issue at all is if that one sealing ring is good and doesn't leak.

I've never had one apart, so it would take some searching on the Mark VII forum to find the examples of taking it out. What I recall was simply pictures of the components out and laying on a desk. I don't recall any good explanation of how to begin taking them out. I believe it's a matter of carefully prying the outer piece(green or orange) out and then the rest is not hard to do.

 

[MuscleJunkie]

Shocks being installed

 

[MuscleJunkie]

Shocks installed and the front bumps stops were cut a bit over 1/2 inch.

Tremendous improvement across the board!

 

[CDW6212R]

It looks great, and how do you like the new tires now?

 

[MuscleJunkie]

Thanks Don. The Pirelli scorpion all season plus tires are pretty dang good. I'm very pleased with them thus far.

 

[CDW6212R]

Good to hear. I had the ... "Z" version a while back, and they were very good except for the rain traction, that could have been better. I'm tending towards the A/S tires these days.

For the 275mm tire I'll get next, I'm torn between the Nexen and the Toyo choices, they both sound good but the treads are nothing alike. I'll toss a coin maybe.

 

[MuscleJunkie]

Good to hear. I had the ... "Z" version a while back, and they were very good except for the rain traction, that could have been better. I'm tending towards the A/S tires these days.

For the 275mm tire I'll get next, I'm torn between the Nexen and the Toyo choices, they both sound good but the treads are nothing alike. I'll toss a coin maybe.

I'm not sure I would go with Nexen. Have had good luck with Toyo tires on Z06 Corvette.