M90 rebuild (rudy)

[CDW6212R]

I agree. I wanted him to say it, and think that the belt and tensioner might need some reworking.

I believe one of the top idler pulleys needs to move closer to the blower, to gain some more belt wrap. Then the belt doesn't have to be as tight.

 

[Centaurus5.0]

Ideas:

 

[jd4242]

Its a stock pulley and stock tensioner. .but yea it is very tight,i need a slightly longer belt..

The water pump actually is a old water pump i pulled off the old 95 ranger i sold..it looked ""newish" thats why i used it..

I also agree i need more belt wrap and a slightly longer belt..i just havent found a easy solution for adding a pulley setup like @Centaurus5.0 posted..ive definitely looked into making something like that but the bracket would have to be pretty crazy..

 

[vroomzoomboom]

can you make a bracket that attaches to both the ac bracket and tensioner bolt then hang a pulley above the tensioner?

edit
never mind. i see the one hose would be in the way. been a long time since i have had a ohv infront of me

 

[jd4242]

Im thinking i may try go straight from power steering to supercharger, around sc and then around that idler pulley,then to the tensioner and alternator..that might give me more wrap on the sc,thats if the belt doesnt hit my intake pipe going from PS to SC..

 

[boominXplorer]

Im thinking i may try go straight from power steering to supercharger, around sc and then around that idler pulley,then to the tensioner and alternator..that might give me more wrap on the sc,thats if the belt doesnt hit my intake pipe going from PS to SC..

That would work better I would think and the tensioner would probably be happier.

 

[CDW6212R]

Looking straight at the engine, can you get the right idler pulley more to the left, under the blower pulley? That would let you run the belt as you said, from the PS to the blower, and back around that idler pulley near the PS.

 

[boominXplorer]

Moving that idler near the PS wont be easy. The ideal way would build a plate bracket from that idler mount to the tensioner mount like suggested above to mount 2 idlers on. Then maybe move the tensioner to where the idler under the alt is like in the 4.0 sohc's.

 

[jd4242]

Moving that idler near the PS wont be easy. The ideal way would build a plate bracket from that idler mount to the tensioner mount like suggested above to mount 2 idlers on. Then maybe move the tensioner to where the idler under the alt is like in the 4.0 sohc's.

The thermostat pipe and housing i think is in the way..

Im pretty sure the belt clears that pulley going straight from the ps to sc..i didnt have a belt when i first added that idler and ran the old belt that way

 

[jd4242]

Well got the water pump fixed and rerouted my belts.end up with a K081065HD,about 7" longer...

I also was getting erratic idle and a check engine light so I check the codes and got 211&212..tps codes..so i swapped the tps and set it to .96v...i also cleaned my MAF and changed my filter..then reset my ecm

Now the truck wont accelerate without going really really rich..it idles and cruise fine but any push on the pedal and it jumps to like 11 and maxes out my gauge for rich..the CEL also has come back on and its only throwing a 212 code this time...

I haven't done a engine running code test yet though, going to do that tomorrow. ..i have double checked my tps and its dead on at .965volts and 5v power..

I didnt set my tps voltage when i did my motor swap so pretty sure it was off before it went out completely, do you think just the fact i fixed my pressure regulator and set my tps to correct voltage that it may just be that far off from what he did my tune last week to??

Basically saying if he tuned it to say .78v and no rise in fuel pressure and now both of those are fixed,could it be causing me to run rich at acceleration only though,not at idle or cruise? ? Or do i have other issues going on now.....

New belt direction, little more wrap and plan to space that pulley up more tighter to the belt coming from power steering..

Old belt wrap..

 

[CDW6212R]

Good work, that's a much better wrap of the belt. The TPS wouldn't cause the current rich mixture, even if it was off when tuned. The PCM tests for the TPS signal at each start, and sets idle baseline at the new value each time, zeroes it at that value each time. What matters is a smooth linear TPS signal.

How large is the fuel return line, and is the regulator capable of flowing the amount of flow going through it? The regulator is supposed to vary the pressure based on the vacuum/boost it sees. It sounds like it's not able to divert enough under boost, or increasing the pressure too much.

 

[jd4242]

Good work, that's a much better wrap of the belt. The TPS wouldn't cause the current rich mixture, even if it was off when tuned. The PCM tests for the TPS signal at each start, and sets idle baseline at the new value each time, zeroes it at that value each time. What matters is a smooth linear TPS signal.

How large is the fuel return line, and is the regulator capable of flowing the amount of flow going through it? The regulator is supposed to vary the pressure based on the vacuum/boost it sees. It sounds like it's not able to divert enough under boost, or increasing the pressure too much.

Its -6an and i wasnt having this issue with only the pressure regulator was swapped..wasnt till the tps went out and i swapped it,cleaned the maf and changed air filter..

 

[CDW6212R]

I wonder what the PCM is seeing, do you have a data log that may show all of those parameters? John or Dono may be able to check to see if it's in the tune part, or the hardware etc.

 

[jd4242]

I wonder what the PCM is seeing, do you have a data log that may show all of those parameters? John or Dono may be able to check to see if it's in the tune part, or the hardware etc.

Obd1...no data

 

[CDW6212R]

Oops forgot that. You have to do it on a dyno, the tune. Do you have a wide band that let's you monitor that O2 data, or record it at all? I know you don't want to go to a dyno every time you have some minor issue, we're trying to avoid that.

 

[jd4242]

Oops forgot that. You have to do it on a dyno, the tune. Do you have a wide band that let's you monitor that O2 data, or record it at all? I know you don't want to go to a dyno every time you have some minor issue, we're trying to avoid that.

I do but i dont have a way of recording it..this definitely is the down fall of obd1 and one of the main reasons i want to switch from SCT to quarter horse..good thing is i only have like 5 sensors so usually not hard to track down the problem once the tune is good,problem right now is this motor is running off a old tune that has been blindly adjusted to e85..

So now im stuggling to fix issuse and trying to figure out if i have more or if its the tune

 

[CDW6212R]

I think you've done the right things, the fuel supply was a big one that may be okay now. The E85 takes a lot more flow, more fuel for the same A/F at an rpm, so selecting the proper pump/FPR/lines is less common knowledge to figure out. The TPS is hard to know if that had an affect on the tune in it now, when it was made etc.

Most people with EECIV like the quarter horse a lot, they love it for ease of tune. I don't know how easy it is to learn it, but I think it's not a big deal. I know a member on the Corral who has done several Mustangs he owns, plus his sons, friends etc. He has more vehicles he has posted about than I can keep up with. I'd ask him if I was working with EECIV etc, his name is David Caflin, he's in FL, and on the SBFtech forum. He's got 302's and 306's with massive intakes and TB's, running smooth at all rpm's etc. He likes big heads, intakes, TB's on any SBF, I don't think he's done any boosted tuning, but he makes the stuff he does seem easy. I think I'd try to ask him or someone similar who knows the quarter horse well like that. They'd more quickly run through the possibilities of the symptoms you've had.

 

[jd4242]

My tuner emailed back and seems to think ots in the tune..he said he was trying to compensate for the pressure drop and left it that way to be safe..he also said if the tps was off when he did the last tune that it would be all out of wack if its correct now..

So guess im going to do a engine running code test and double check EVERYTHING. .then if i cant find anything else ill take it to him on the 9th to try to dyno tune it again

 

[CDW6212R]

Very good, that sounds positive. Good plan by the tuner, better to have it too rich than too lean.

Same idea for me, I'm going to do a blower on a stock engine first, to work out the fuel system and everything outside of the engine.

 

[jd4242]

Very good, that sounds positive. Good plan by the tuner, better to have it too rich than too lean.

Same idea for me, I'm going to do a blower on a stock engine first, to work out the fuel system and everything outside of the engine.

Yea i just dont get why it idle and cruise good..but i know nothing about tuning so who knows,guess ill find out though. .just would hate to get back on the dyno and something be wrong and cant tune again,he charges me $100 just to strap the truck down even if no tuning happens..