No Start Issue 99 Limited UPDATED

[Pr27.11]

I'm sorry but I'm not clear here. Are you saying you were able to start the vehicle or it didn't make any difference? It seems I can't quite discern what you were intending to say.

Sorry.
Using the other key are no difference at all.
Still crank no start

 

[koda2000]

I'm afraid I can't tell about theft light as someone, before I got the vehicle, managed to pull it out of it's place behind the plastic lens and it dangles underneath the dash where I really can't see it unless I am bent down enough. I need to put it back, just haven't yet. Put new instrument panel lights 2 wks ago but didn't notice it until I had almost everything back together. First nice day or weather I'll do that.

Do you have an OBDII reader to see if you are getting any codes? I got, as mentioned on some post: Code: B1602 - PATS Received Invalid Format of Key Code from Ignition Transponder. If you haven't got one I think they are well worth the cost. On Ebay I didn't pay much for it and the Forscan app for your phone to bluetooth link it (full version) is 5 bucks. They have a free app version but I don't know what it leaves off in ability to read DTC codes.

@mfitz725 - I don't understand what you're talking about regarding a light "dangling behind the dash". There are no bulbs that are connected to the instrument panel with wires. All the bulbs (illumination and warning) twist into holes in the back of the cluster and make their electrical contacts on a piece of plastic circuit film (don't know a better name for it). All the wiring that is connected to this film (3 plug-in connectors as I recall) provide power to the various bulbs and gauges via the plastic circuit film.

 

[donalds]

@mfitz725 - I don't understand what you're talking about regarding a light "dangling behind the dash". There are no bulbs that are connected to the instrument panel with wires. All the bulbs (illumination and warning) twist into holes in the back of the cluster and make their electrical contacts on a piece of plastic circuit film (don't know a better name for it). All the wiring that is connected to this film (3 plug-in connectors as I recall) provide power to the various bulbs and gauges via the plastic circuit film.

Check it out Flexible electronics - Wikipedia

 

[mfitz725]

@mfitz725 - I don't understand what you're talking about regarding a light "dangling behind the dash". There are no bulbs that are connected to the instrument panel with wires. All the bulbs (illumination and warning) twist into holes in the back of the cluster and make their electrical contacts on a piece of plastic circuit film (don't know a better name for it). All the wiring that is connected to this film (3 plug-in connectors as I recall) provide power to the various bulbs and gauges via the plastic circuit film.

Someone in the vehicles past pulled the bulb for the anti theft system out of its socket and left it hanging when they added some push button switch right beside the hood lever. When I was in the dash replacing cluster bulbs I didn't notice it until I had put most of the panels back. So that anti theft light bulb is just hanging, I tried to put it into place but they seemed to have damaged the red lens as it would not snap into place. I'm going to address it the next chance I get to try and make it stay where it goes. Does that explain it? Let me know.

 

[koda2000]

Someone in the vehicles past pulled the bulb for the anti theft system out of its socket and left it hanging when they added some push button switch right beside the hood lever. When I was in the dash replacing cluster bulbs I didn't notice it until I had put most of the panels back. So that anti theft light bulb is just hanging, I tried to put it into place but they seemed to have damaged the red lens as it would not snap into place. I'm going to address it the next chance I get to try and make it stay where it goes. Does that explain it? Let me know.

Not really. Below is what the rear of your instrument panel looks like. There are no wires connected to any of the bulb sockets. The single RED socket (left of center, near the bottom) is for the anti-theft bulb. The bulb is either in its hole or out of its hole. Unless someone has modified the socket there are no wires so there is no way for the bulb to "dangle". Perhaps someone tried to replace a burnt out anti-theft bulb, and the one they tried to install was to long, the bulb socket should twist (not snap) in. If the bulb is too long it might have hit the "red lens".

 

[Pr27.11]

Not really. Below is what the rear of your instrument panel looks like. There are no wires connected to any of the bulb sockets. The single RED socket (left of center, near the bottom) is for the anti-theft bulb. The bulb is either in its hole or out of its hole. Unless someone has modified the socket there are no wires so there is no way for the bulb to "dangle". Perhaps someone tried to replace a burnt out anti-theft bulb, and the one they tried to install was to long, the bulb socket should twist (not snap) in. If the bulb is too long it might have hit the "red lens".

That’s how mine is. But I think some are In The dash dead center near the windshield. If that’s the case there’s usually a reset button near the em brake. I wish I had this button. But I don’t and I’m still carless.

 

[tripog]

if there is a button down by the parking brake and you have pats code the vehicle may have a remote start system. that button could be the programming/valet button, if it has a remote start it has a security bypass box which ties into that pats system.

 

[koda2000]

That’s how mine is. But I think some are In The dash dead center near the windshield. If that’s the case there’s usually a reset button near the em brake. I wish I had this button. But I don’t and I’m still carless.

A reset button for what? That photo is of the back of a '99 cluster. If you blow up the photo (ctrl/+) you should be able to read that every bulb socket is market on the circuit film as to what the bulb is for.

 

[tripog]

I would get a new key ASAP, and reprogram the new key while the key you are having issues with still works some. Otherwise, you will be stuck doing it through FORScan, or at a locksmith/dealer.

walmart can make ford keys for about 40 dollars, not cheapest or best option but they work in a pinch.

 

[Mbrooks420]

walmart can make ford keys for about 40 dollars, not cheapest or best option but they work in a pinch.

The problem with those is they are cloned. I’d try and get a second, unique key before going the cloned route.

 

[koda2000]

Don't some of those (all of those?) cloned keys actually have a small battery inside them. I'd forgotten about that, maybe that's what has been causing the OP's intermittent start/no start,,, ?

 

[tripog]

yeah my walmart key does, and it definitely could be part of his problem but if he has a push button down by the parking brake i bet there is some aftermarket goods down there that could be causing an issue.

 

[Pr27.11]

A reset button for what? That photo is of the back of a '99 cluster. If you blow up the photo (ctrl/+) you should be able to read that every bulb socket is market on the circuit film as to what the bulb is for.

Ford told me some have a reset button hidden there it’s tiny. Mine doesn’t have any magic buttons hey y’all wanna help with my post lol!!!

 

[mfitz725]

Ok, what I'm talking about is someone added a button beside the hood release. When I pulled the panel to replace cluster bulbs recently I noticed it. The wiring is very obviously not factory. When I got the vehicle I noticed some wiring under the hood at the battery that had been disconnected. It ran in thru the firewall and therefore leads to what I found. There was small bulb down there which I assumed went into the lens I picture below. Koda is absolutely right about the theft light in the cluster,. I now know that what I have been talking about is not the theft light. If you look right above the yellow arrow you can just see the red lens I got confused about.

 

[tripog]

do you have the original factory remotes for the the vehicle or are they aftermarket?

 

[donalds]

The ford key don't have a battery it has a rfid chip in it which is powered up by the transceiver using induction

 

[mfitz725]

do you have the original factory remotes for the the vehicle or are they aftermarket?

I believe I have the original. Not 100% sure as I bought it 2 yrs ago, Based on the aftermarket ones I've seen I think it's original.

 

[tripog]

The ford key don't have a battery it has a rfid chip in it which is powered up by the transceiver using induction

generic walmart style ford pats key take a battery though.

Attached pictures specifically for @donalds sense he disagrees

 

[tripog]

I believe I have the original. Not 100% sure as I bought it 2 yrs ago, Based on the aftermarket ones I've seen I think it's original.

ford ones look similar to this

 

[mfitz725]

ford ones look similar to this

View attachment 167526

I looked up the part number stamped on the back and mine is original factory.