Missing bellhousing bolts

[Godzilla2y]

I have a 1996 4.0 automatic. The last guy that put it together forgot to put half of the bolts in, so they're now several years lost.

Does anyone know the part numbers for the bellhousing-to-engine bolts? I have checked Haynes, Alldata, even Ford Service info. These bolts are an enigma.

I BELIEVE they might be any of the following part numbers:

N606062-S2 (maybe the sides?)
N606067-S439 (maybe by the starter?)
N802662-S2 (maybe the top?)

Does anyone know if I have these locations right, and how many of each one I need?

Thanks in advance.

 

[donalds]

Junk yard

 

[C420sailor]

Yep. If you can get to a pick n pull, you can have all the bolts you’ll need.

If you can’t, the dealer will be able to figure it out...but you’ll pay...

 

[fast_dave]

@Godzilla2y


The 4.0 OHV is a GERMAN engine - thus METRIC BOLT SIZING between the Transmission Bellhousing and the 4.0 OHV V-6 Engine Block.

The Flange Bolt Size/Thread you need is M10 - 1.5

As far as lengths you'll have to pull what you have to get that OR insert something like a wood chopstick into the hole, sink it, and witness mark it for length.

Hope that helps!

 

[koda2000]

How many bolts are missing and from what location? There are 3 different lengths of bolts used. 2 long ones on the bottom, 4 medium length bolts on the sides and 2 short bolts on the top. They are all metric, the same thread and pitch. If you're missing a couple it's not a big deal. It's not like an old OHV engine is going to have enough power to rip the engine off the trans. I recently reinstalled my SOHC engine and and so far I am unable to reinstall the top 2 short bolts. I'm going to have to lower the engine or trans to be able to get them back in. I'm not worried about it though because 6 bolts is plenty. I plan to get around to reinstalling these bolts when the weather is cooler.

 

[410Fortune]

@Godzilla2y I just pulled a 4.0 and auto apart, I have all the BH bolts... I can ship them to you I have Paypal...how does $20 sound? PM me............anything else you need just ask, I have the entire 4.0 / 5r55e drivetrain downstairs right now 2000 Ranger.

 

[masospaghetti]

In this case you could get away with some decent hardware-store metric bolts if you can't find the real ones. These aren't super highly stressed and the thin cast aluminum bell housing would break before a decent steel bolt.

 

[fast_dave]

In this case you could get away with some decent hardware-store metric bolts if you can't find the real ones. These aren't super highly stressed and the thin cast aluminum bell housing would break before a decent steel bolt.

@masospaghetti

About 3 years ago I had the clutch replaced, and the installer fessed up that he lost the two bottom bolts.

He said the same thing as you - not a high stressed part due to the other bolts AND the metal dowel's that the trans/engine mesh up with.

Went to the local ACE Hardware store, and for around $6 I bought two reasonably high grade flange style bolts - I think they were grade 5 - that's how I know the metric bolt size & thread: (M10 - 1.5)

 

[donalds]

Ace will have your 10.9 bolts
Same as factory flange and all

 

[masospaghetti]

@masospaghetti

About 3 years ago I had the clutch replaced, and the installer fessed up that he lost the two bottom bolts.

He said the same thing as you - not a high stressed part due to the other bolts AND the metal dowel's that the trans/engine mesh up with.

Went to the local ACE Hardware store, and for around $6 I bought two reasonably high grade flange style bolts - I think they were grade 5 - that's how I know the metric bolt size & thread: (M10 - 1.5)

Forgot about the metal dowel, that's exactly correct. The bolt fit is relatively loose in the hole, the shear/twisting loads will be taken by the dowels.

 

[Godzilla2y]

Thanks, everyone, for the replies. Time is slightly of the essence for me with this, so I ordered the bolts from a dealer (and you were right about paying big, some of those bolts are $22 each or $19 something if you're real nice to the parts guy).

In case anyone needs this information in the future, after several hours on the phone with dealers, I believe I have figured out what bolts go where (and their part numbers).

N606067-S439 is the bolt that goes through the BOTTOM of the bell housing on both the left and the right. These are also the bolts that are used to hold the starter to the bell housing. The bell housing/oil pan bolts used to be N606067-S2 but have been superseded to become the same as the starter bolts. These are about $4.50 each from the dealer.

N802662-S2 are the TOP L+R bell housing to engine block bolts. These are $5.40 a piece.

N606062-S2 are the bolts that go everywhere else. These are the expensive ones at $22 each. Don't lose these.

Please note I have only confirmed this for the 4.0/4r55e combo.

@410Fortune I'll be messaging you shortly. The dealer bolts come with a 10 day return policy, and if I can take them back that'll save me $60.

@koda2000 Are you able to reach the top bolts through the access port in the cabin?

 

[koda2000]

Thanks, everyone, for the replies. Time is slightly of the essence for me with this, so I ordered the bolts from a dealer (and you were right about paying big, some of those bolts are $22 each or $19 something if you're real nice to the parts guy).

In case anyone needs this information in the future, after several hours on the phone with dealers, I believe I have figured out what bolts go where (and their part numbers).

N606067-S439 is the bolt that goes through the BOTTOM of the bell housing on both the left and the right. These are also the bolts that are used to hold the starter to the bell housing. The bell housing/oil pan bolts used to be N606067-S2 but have been superseded to become the same as the starter bolts. These are about $4.50 each from the dealer.

N802662-S2 are the TOP L+R bell housing to engine block bolts. These are $5.40 a piece.

N606062-S2 are the bolts that go everywhere else. These are the expensive ones at $22 each. Don't lose these.

Please note I have only confirmed this for the 4.0/4r55e combo.

@410Fortune I'll be messaging you shortly. The dealer bolts come with a 10 day return policy, and if I can take them back that'll save me $60.

@koda2000 Are you able to reach the top bolts through the access port in the cabin?

IDK, that seems like too much trouble for me (rear air and full console). It's pretty easy for me to support the engine, remove 6 motor plate bolts and lower it until I have enough clearance to insert the 2 missing bolts, or unbolt the the transmission X-member and lower the trans/engine from the rear. It doesn't take much. If it wasn't for my OCD I wouldn't even bother with the 2 top bolts.

Here's a pic of the rear of the SOHC engine. Note the location of the 2 uppermost trans bolts (circled in blue). IDK if the OHV V6 is the same, but the blocks are very similar, the SOHC block being derived from the OHV. The transmission has holes for 2 top bolts at the very top, but the block does not have one of the holes at the top (the one to the right/passenger side).

Does the OHV V6 use an aluminum engine cradle/upper oil pan like the SOHC V6? On the SOHC the 2 long bottom bolts actually bolt to the upper engine cradle.

 

[donalds]

I used a 4 foot extension with a swivel wrapped the swivel in electronic tape to make it stiff
and went in from the back of the transmission driver side
You don't even need to Jack it up
Hope this helps


You can use several extensions to reach it really is that easy

 

[drdoom]

Through the wheel wells is another way to reach some of the bolts.

 

[koda2000]

I used a 4 foot extension with a swivel wrapped the swivel in electronic tape to make it stiff
and went in from the back of the transmission driver side
You don't even need to Jack it up
Hope this helps


You can use several extensions to reach it really is that easy

The use of long extensions and a swivel works fine for the 4 side bell housing bolts, but there is no way to get at the 2 top-most bolts (I've tried). You can't even get you hand between the bell housing and firewall to find the bolt holes, or insert the bolts (even with the plastic inner fenders removed) I've tried, I cant's even see the top holes. My mistake was not having installed the top 2 bolts before fulling reinstalling the engine on it's mounting plates. Maybe I could have accessed the 2 top bolts before I reinstalled the the intake manifold, PCV lines, coil pack and hood (as I recall that's how I removed them) but that boat has sailed.

 

[410Fortune]

This is a ohv 4.0
You can get to the top bolts from on top of the engine, with your hand down in there, but you have to climb up and over the engine to do so
When I was younger I used to do it that way, climb up there, reach around, lay on the engine, etc. Now days I have a top side creeper to help with such jobs, but that is still the hard way to do this.

To get all the top bell housing bolts, well actually all the BH bolts except the very bottom two....I use 24-36" extensions on my 1/2" drive and get all the bolts from back around the tail housing of the trans. Usually I remove the t case and transmission cross member first, with the transmission hanging down it is rather easy to get up in there.

No you will not be able to get the top BH bolts through the floor access plate

The automatics also have a dipstick tube retainer bolt that can be gotten at the same time as all the BH bolts.

 

[410Fortune]

I got your PM, I can ship bolts out tomorrow if I get your address and payment today! $22 EACH??????????????????????????????????
stealerships

 

[koda2000]

I got your PM, I can ship bolts out tomorrow if I get your address and payment today! $22 EACH??????????????????????????????????
stealerships

$22 a piece for a single trans bolt is nuts! They're not that special. If I needed to replace a few I think I'd just use regular hardware store grade-8 bolts. When shopping for various new TTY bolts for my SOHC engine rebuild this past Winter I found huge price differences in Ford OEM bolts just by shopping the internet. For example I saw the OEM front jack shaft bolt listed for nearly $60 (a very special bolt) and later bought an OEM one off Amazon for $22.75 w/free shipping.

On the subject of installing my top 2 trans bolts. I agree that dropping the trans cross member allowing the engine to tip back is probably the easiest way to go. While I'm at it I need to try to reinstall the trans wiring harness bracket on its side bell housing bolt. That bolt was by far the hardest one for me to remove. Due to the "[_]" shaped design of the bracket I had a tough time getting a socket on the bolt head and had to use multiple 1/2" extensions to get it the bolt to break loose (as 3-4 feet of 3/8" extensions twisted too much nullifying the torque of my impact wrench.

 

[masospaghetti]

On the subject of installing my top 2 trans bolts. I agree that dropping the trans cross member allowing the engine to tip back is probably the easiest way to go.

Agreed, dropping the rear of the trans down a few inches (I keep it supported with a floor jack) allows you to access the top two bolts.

You probably could get to it using swivels but I prefer using a super long extension to do it.

 

[Godzilla2y]

Picked up the bolts from the dealer today, and it doesn't look like they fit where they're supposed to.

And I learned I can't return them because they're "special order" parts.

@410Fortune says some bolts will be getting shipped my way today. Once they show up, I'm going to compare them and then raise hell at the dealer to hopefully get some of my money back. Unfortunately, it was the cheaper ones that aren't fitting, but we'll see!