Missing bellhousing bolts

[koda2000]

Agreed, dropping the rear of the trans down a few inches (I keep it supported with a floor jack) allows you to access the top two bolts.

You probably could get to it using swivels but I prefer using a super long extension to do it.

I've lots of long extensions and several swivels, that's not the issue, it's that I can't even see (or touch) the holes where the bolts go right now. It's not a big deal, just something I'd like to get around to eventually.

 

[410Fortune]

I would not be happy with the dealer bolts at all!!! If they special ordered you in a mustang when you tried to buy a ranger, you cannot return that either eh? Wrong parts = they are taking it back. I would be so PISSED

Your bag of bolts is on its way

 

[410Fortune]

I used 24-36" extensions, a wobbly extension on the end and a deep socket, lots and lots of light. I let the transmission hang down more then a few inches, more like half a foot or so. Really easy to remove the t case when it hangs down so far you can more easily get at all the bolts.

You need to be able to see the holes, but you do not need to touch them Only the extension and bolt need to go up there. I start them all by hand (twist extensions) and finish with a ratchet, When removing trans I let the electric impact do the work

 

[Godzilla2y]

Progress is slow on this machine, as we've got it up on a lift in my FIL's barn and I don't trust myself to be able to properly hold it all together while getting the bolts all in with that 4r55e hanging out around my head and shoulders.

As such, I haven't gotten the bottom bolts to fit in yet. However, it looks like the trans and engine aren't properly lined up. We're supporting the transmission with a board between the frame rails (where the crossmember goes, but it's out while we get everything together), and I'm thinking that the board is holding the back end too high up.

I've positioned a few tall jacks under everything (one under the tranny just in case, and one under the engine), and I can tell that everything lines up better once I push the engine up a little (but then the supporting board comes out, so it's a scary game).

I've got a busy weekend, so I can't touch it until at least Sunday. My next plan will be to jack that engine up a hair and, with a few volunteers to support the transmission, undo the top bolt we got in it just enough so that the bottom can come back into alignment. I suspect/hope that those bottom bolts will fit into the threads once that happens.

I'll update this once I get it figured out, then maybe start a separate thread for the process of getting it all back together (plus additional work I need to do to it).

 

[410Fortune]

Have you ever stabbed an auto trans before on a Ford?
The converter must line up before you even mate the trans bellhousing to the engine block

The angle of the trans to engine must be EXACT before you stab them together

Your bolts are on their way, wife sent them out via USPS yesterday....

I recently installed an auto trans in a v8 ranger I am building
The process is the same for you even though you are v6
check it out:

410Custom's builds a 2007 Ranger V8 - custom truck build - Project "Ranger Premier"

Interesting, internal seam welds do protrude quite a bit in some cases. What kind of flow numbers did you get if you can post it? I had not thought of testing the flow of an exhaust part, but that's not a bad idea. I have a pair of 1 5/8" shorties as spare to use on my 347 when I first put it in...

www.explorerforum.com

 

[Godzilla2y]

The converter was lined up, as far as we could tell. It's just a matter of getting the bellhousing and engine perfectly in line now, I think

 

[C420sailor]

Be careful, as mentioned above. Rotating the two for alignment is one thing, but it can get ugly if you pull them apart and then attempt to re-seat the torque converter blindly. People have destroyed transmissions this way.

It’s a PITA, but I always endeavor to keep the TC in the trans if at all possible. I’d sooner pull the starter and the TC to flexplate (flywheel? Flexplate? I always mix them up) nuts and then screw with it so I’m not jacking the TC in and out of the pump housing.

I’ve successfully pulled and reinstalled all bellhousing bolts without angling the trans. It’s a serious PITA. Used a swivel-head 3/8” ratchet...can’t remember if I used universals and wobbles. My hands were cut up by the time I was done.

 

[Godzilla2y]

We haven't put the TC nuts back on yet, just to be safe, because we figured we'd have difficulty lining everything up.

I was always confused about the flywheel/flex plate thing, too. Technically, flywheels are for manual transmissions and flex plates are for automatics, but I think anyone will know what you're talking about if you use one or the other.

I checked the mail at lunch today and the bolts from @410Fortune were in my mailbox, thank you! I have to work through my lunch this week, so I didn't get to spend long comparing them, but they seem a little different than what the dealer had. We'll see tonight.

 

[410Fortune]

those came directly out of a 2000 Ranger 4.0 and 5r55e trans 4x4 then into a bag and shipped to you! Man they got there quick! shipped Friday

 

[Godzilla2y]

6/8 bolts fit. @410Fortune it's nothing you did, your bolts were fine.

But we made a fun discovery tonight. Can anyone spot the issues with the bolt holes?

 

[C420sailor]

That’s always a fun time

 

[Josh P]

If it is only 2 bolt holes, I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[MrQ]

Two a the top, two on the side and the two on the bottom, really all you need. I have seen functioning Explorer's with less.

 

[410Fortune]

it looks like you are tying to put bolts in the holes with the locating dowels?
I do not think bolts go there = no threads

I sent you BH bolts and starter bolts just so you would have some extras

I agree with these dudes 6 bolts and two locating dowels is plenty

 

[Godzilla2y]

Accidentally posted three pictures, but those are of the bottom two bellhousing holes.

 

[410Fortune]

so whats up w the pics? Are they stripped out? old bolts broken off in there? hard to tell whats going on.
The bottom two holes are the easiest to work on! (Some good news)

 

[Godzilla2y]

The best we can tell, the last guy that put it together busted the original bolts off inside those bottom two holes and tried drilling the bolts out, unsuccessfully. And then lied when he told my dad "Oh, you never gave me those bolts"

The threads seem to be gone. Now I have to decide if it's worth just changing the oil pan.

 

[donalds]

Leave it

 

[C420sailor]

If it ain’t broke...

 

[MrQ]

Should be fine, you have 6 out of 8 attached to the strongest part of the engine, the block. You take a look at a 4r70w or a 4r60e transmission and they don't even use bottom bolts and those are mated to v8's.

Bottom line, German's and French over-engineered the crap out of this whole thing; it really doesn't need 8 bolts (or 9 in the case of the SOHC) to hold them together.