How to: 4.0 OHV Refresh

[fast_dave]

In the Google link I provided, NAPA has it for $62, Autozone for $82, yada, yada, yada...

When my DPFE went bad, I bought a $13 one and it worked fine (now they're old enough that they're $11.50 Free Shipping).
Link: New EGR Valve Pressure Feedback Sensor For 1994-2010 Ford Lincoln Mazda VP8 | eBay

Over 215,000 miles, I also went through (2) Aftermarket Multi-Function Switches (city driving = lots of use).
Both times I didn't spend more than $20 w/ free shipping off of Ebay.

Hope that helps -

 

[410Fortune]

I am both very relieved and very embarrassed to report that upon closer inspection, the left cylinder bank plug wires were 100% mixed up. I must've misread my manual and then assumed I'd read it correctly when I "double and triple checked" wiring. My tail is tucked between my legs to say the least.

The OHV is now running smoothly as ever. I've got a few more details to button up, but it's looking like this refresh is going to be a success. Thank you all, especially @410Fortune and @fast_dave for your help troubleshooting my mistakes!

Now we are talking!!!

Good news

wiring those ohvs is a pita especially when they have EGR (plumbing is right in the way!
I remove the 42 pin wiring connector, gives more room for fishing the plug wires under/through the plenum

say it with me now ..... four six five lol lol

I have these on my shop wall, cannot tell you how many times we get our wires crossed over the years

always check your work when there is a problem....we are human after all

 

[97Sandbox]

Aside from dialing in my antifreeze/coolant ratio and probably doing an extra oil change for good measure, I'm considering my refresh both complete and successful. Since I had most of a spray Seafoam bottle from when I sprayed some in the plug holes, I decided to use the rest per the instructions and clean my intake and valves. The best part of course is the "spirited acceleration" you're supposed to do at the end


With the last pushrod 4.0 I spent much time around being my dad's '93 XLT (which he sold around 2003), this refresh was a new experience in many ways. Overall, I found it to be a bit friendlier to work on than the SOHC version I know pretty well -- mostly due to more space to work in the engine bay. After my first real "spirited driving" in the truck, I'll also say I'm pleasantly surprised at the torque the engine puts out. Granted the power decrease from the SOHC to the OHV is very noticeable, the OHV pulls just fine (for a 20 year old truck anyways), particularly with the 3.73 traction loc dif (a very worthwhile upgrade from the 3.27 open dif it came with).

Now that it's back on the road, I'll be enjoying driving the truck as-is for a while before diving into a refresh of the M5OD trans which is also very tired after 260k miles.

 

[97Sandbox]

To recap, my "refresh" included:

• Flush cooling system and remove all cooling system components from engine bay for better access and easier cleaning
• Remove basically everything on the engine except heads, exhaust, and oil pan (and lots of degreasing along the way)
  • Note: I would have liked to have removed the oil filter mount and replaced the O rings, but there wasn't enough access with the right motor mount in the way
• Replace timing set (Cloyes) and cam sprocket bolt (OEM Ford)
• Replace timing cover gasket (OEM Ford) and front main seal (Mahle)
• Replace cam synchronizer (Standard Motor Products, rebuilt with Ford shaft and gear)
• Replace lower intake manifold gaskets (Mahle)
• Install remanufactured fuel injectors (Ford/Bosch)
• Replace fuel rail spacer (OEM Ford)
• Replace water pump (Gates) and gasket (Mahle)
• Replace idler pulley, belt tensioner, water pump pulley, and belt (Gates)
• Replace fan clutch (SKP) and fan (Motorcraft)
• Replace thermostat and gasket (Stant)
• Replace spark plugs (Motorcraft)
• Replace valve cover gaskets (Mahle)
• Replace upper intake manifold gaskets (Mahle)
• Replace IAC and throttle body gaskets (Mahle)
• Replace EGR gaskets (Mahle for the valve, FelPro at the intake manifold)
• Replace PCV valve (Motorcraft) and gasket (Dorman)
• Replace spark plug wires (Standard Motor Products)
• Replace heater core hoses (Motorcraft)
• Replace radiator hoses (Gates)
• Replace radiator cap (Stant)
• Refill all fluids and complete a power steering system flush

And along the way there was a TON of cleaning; cleaning parts, cleaning bolts, cleaning the engine bay...you cannot clean too much with a job like this.

Before this refresh I had also installed a new battery and starter and during the refresh I gave my alternator a thorough inspection and cleaning.

A few used parts I installed during the refresh were:

• 5.0L air box (larger inlet and added heat shield)
• K&N washable air filter (from my last Explorer)
• Heater control valve (because I broke mine and didn't want to wait for a new one to ship)
• Battery heat shield (also taken from my old Explorer, it was missing when I bought this 2000 Sport)
• EVAP vacuum lines (I broke those too)
• Factory fog light wiring (had nothing to do with the refresh, but it's easier to run the wires when the radiator is out)

As a final reminder (and word of encouragement) this was all completed with the engine in the truck and the only special tools used were the cam synchro alignment key (included with the part), crank and P/S pump pulley pullers (loaned by local parts stores), and torque wrenches (you will need an one with an in-lb scale). The other tools I used that weren't just the typical wrenches/pliers/sockets/extensions were o-ring picks and hose grip pliers -- neither is required but both are very helpful when carefully removing old, hardened rubber hoses and pulling spark plug boots.

 

[410Fortune]

Bravo!! Well done

Here is to another 260k! (Easy for refreshed ohv)

 

[97Sandbox]

Took my Sport to run some errands tonight, it's still running smooth. However, about 15-20 min after getting home I ran to the garage for something and as my hand brushed the fender, I noticed it was really hot.

I fired it up and plugged in my scan tool -- it was at 198F after sitting. I kept it running and started poking around the engine bay; no leaks, no steam, but the coolant reservoir is a little low and what was green and clear a few weeks ago is now cloudy and rusty looking.

I'm sure some rust built up in the block while I did the refresh -- it did sit for a few months without coolant in it. Maybe this contamination is just from all the rust breaking loose?

In the 5-10 min I had it running, the temp climbed steadily to 210F then 220F and I finally shut it off. It certainly seems like the thermostat is not opening and it's getting hot enough to boil some of the water out of the coolant mix.

My question to you all is this: is rusty debris in coolant really enough to kill a brand new thermostat (a 198F rated Stant if that matters)? And if so, is a thermostat replacement accompanied by a flush and refill the best course of action?

 

[Fix4Dirt]

Took my Sport to run some errands tonight, it's still running smooth. However, about 15-20 min after getting home I ran to the garage for something and as my hand brushed the fender, I noticed it was really hot.

I fired it up and plugged in my scan tool -- it was at 198F after sitting. I kept it running and started poking around the engine bay; no leaks, no steam, but the coolant reservoir is a little low and what was green and clear a few weeks ago is now cloudy and rusty looking.
View attachment 432157
I'm sure some rust built up in the block while I did the refresh -- it did sit for a few months without coolant in it. Maybe this contamination is just from all the rust breaking loose?

In the 5-10 min I had it running, the temp climbed steadily to 210F then 220F and I finally shut it off. It certainly seems like the thermostat is not opening and it's getting hot enough to boil some of the water out of the coolant mix.

My question to you all is this: is rusty debris in coolant really enough to kill a brand new thermostat (a 198F rated Stant if that matters)? And if so, is a thermostat replacement accompanied by a flush and refill the best course of action?

imo flush is a good step.

 

[Pete Deering]

I would drain the radiator and flush it. From experience there will be grit in it when you flush also flush the block. I flush tap water. I also caught, screen and re-used my coolant. My coolant ( mixed with distilled water) was new or fresh. The dirt and dirty coolant will be at the end. I did this two times and I had the same result as far dirt found. I used a half size concrete mixing pan (Lowes or Homedepot I also uses it for tranny fluid change, I slip it in a garbage bag, no cleanup) it holds the radiator perfectly. Hose connection facing up. I also store the radiator fill with water while out. The rubber gasket dry out and leak when dry.

 

[410Fortune]

first check to make sure the tube between overflow and radiator is not plugged
next pull radiator cap and inspect it, all good at the gasket and spring?

With a new thermostat, new waterpump, and a new radiator cap we want to make sure we didnt get a bad part or install.
The OHV is known for having an air bubble that can sit behind your thermostat, which is why the little vent hole on the thermostat faces straight up

If all checks out at the overflow, tube and cap, I would drain the system, fill with water, run it for a bit, drain again, repeat until you are satisfied no more dirt/rust water
Then re fill and try again

the 16# spring in the cap is what controls the temp that the coolant will boil
The thermostat is to be fully open by 195=198 degrees, this should be obvious on the gage when it occurs
220 is too hot, if it hits 220 and is still climbing there is an issue IMO

 

[Pete Deering]

first check to make sure the tube between overflow and radiator is not plugged
next pull radiator cap and inspect it, all good at the gasket and spring?

With a new thermostat, new waterpump, and a new radiator cap we want to make sure we didnt get a bad part or install.
The OHV is known for having an air bubble that can sit behind your thermostat, which is why the little vent hole on the thermostat faces straight up

If all checks out at the overflow, tube and cap, I would drain the system, fill with water, run it for a bit, drain again, repeat until you are satisfied no more dirt/rust water
Then re fill and try again

the 16# spring in the cap is what controls the temp that the coolant will boil
The thermostat is to be fully open by 195=198 degrees, this should be obvious on the gage when it occurs
220 is too hot, if it hits 220 and is still climbing there is an issue IMO

There is a tech service bulletin on the air in the upper manifold!. My temp gauge would move up and down, but would not over heat.. ford under warranty installed the by pass. It worked. What I do now, vacuum fill the system. Maybe one of your coolant hoses is collapsing. Is the radiator core block? Try spray water n the radiator to see if the temp comes down it should.

 

[fast_dave]

@97Sandbox

From the pic you provided - that coolant is really, really rust colored.

What color coolant did you fill with just 3 months ago?

 

[97Sandbox]

Did more investigation over lunch.

Hose to reservoir was not clogged, I pulled it off the rad and drained the reservoir contents into a jug.

Took off the rad cap (a new 16lb Stant) and it looked fine. Gaskets undamaged and soft, spring could be depressed as I expected.

I started draining the radiator (to prep for flush) and noticed something odd -- coolant in the radiator looks like typical slightly dirty green coolant but what I drained from the reservoir looks like muddy pond water.

Any idea if this means something in particular?

 

[donalds]

Somebody put some stop leak in the reservoir in my opinion
You can see evidence on the radiator cap gasket little metal flakes

 

[97Sandbox]

Somebody put some stop leak in the reservoir in my opinion
You can see evidence on the radiator cap gasket little metal flakes

I won't disagree that it looks that way, but I can assure I've never added stop leak to anything. Certainly not to this vehicle since I flushed the block and radiator (twice) during the refresh.

 

[donalds]

Perhaps some windshield washer fluid made it into the coolant reservoir on accident

 

[97Sandbox]

Pulled the thermostat and I'm about to flush with distilled water until the rusty debris is gone. Does anyone see anything odd with the thermostat?

Is the rust line an indicator of air trapped in the system?

Engine side looks fine to me. Not sure if there's anything I should check.

 

[donalds]

Pulled the thermostat and I'm about to flush with distilled water until the rusty debris is gone. Does anyone see anything odd with the thermostat?
View attachment 432218
Is the rust line an indicator of air trapped in the system?

View attachment 432219
Engine side looks fine to me. Not sure if there's anything I should check.

Looks fine ....buy a new one or at least test it

And yes looks like a air bubble

 

[97Sandbox]

How do I test?

 

[97Sandbox]

And equally important, what special bleeding process does the OHV need? I never ran into trapped air on my SOHC or the other cars whose cooling systems I've worked on...

 

[donalds]

Test it with boiling water and a thermometer
I'm not sure on the overhead valve on how to bleed it