How to: 4.0 OHV Refresh

[410Fortune]

Yes it will they can “limp along” to 400k
Refresh like you did will keep them going. However
My dumbass always pulls the heads to so gaskets.. then I find a small crack and I order heads for $550 out of Texas so my refresh turns into a big fiasco. I would not likely invest that much into a 260k engine so now we snowball into finding a lower mile ohv to put the heads on… I like your method better
The last one of these we did we just sold. Ended up buying a ohv off eBay for $600 with 140k on it. Got here looked a bit rough been sitting a long time. Had to replace freeze plugs put new reman heads on it and total refresh all new parts. She runs fantastic! But also burns a quart of oil a month, either rings or valve seals. Buddy drove it for 6 months was a great truck.. but we built him a v8 so sold the v6… new owner was made aware of the oil burning issue… found out real quick why it was the cheapest engine on eBay… it was questionable at best yanked by some dudes in Tennessee broke several sensors and pigtails, one freeze
Plug had jb weld on it… but we needed an engine so….that truck was named “snowball” lol lol

 

[97Sandbox]

The Sport is still chugging along, but it's gotten increasingly hard to start lately. I pretended it was the cold weather for the last few months, but that excuse isn't holding up now haha. I was also getting some weird stumbling under load on hot hot days last summer and suspect both the hard start and stumbling are due to a lazy fuel pump.

Unfortunately the Schrader on the fuel rail does not want to cooperate with my pressure tester. It appears the valve pin sits deeper in than it does on my 5.0's fuel rail. Does anybody have a workaround for that? I'd really like to confirm my issue is a fuel pump before I go to the effort of dropping the tank. Maybe put a tiny ball bearing between the fuel rail valve and the pressure tester adapter?

 

[donalds]

Remove the valve core and retest