1997 MM 5.0 c-n-p conv. *IT RUNS! 1st CL drive Problem with Overdrive*

[allmyEXes]

I've been waiting on the new fuel pump assembly. Yesterday it was in Georgia. Maybe it will show up here Tuesday. I may not be able to install it until Wednesday. I suppose that the pump could be held up in the Christmas package delays.
Here is a picture of the AEM AFR gauge/o2 sensor kit that I haven't yet added a picture of it here.

 

[allmyEXes]

At 2:55 p.m. central time after getting home from work after leaving for the Christmas holiday, the new fuel pump assembly arrived USPS.

I decided to drive the 4.75 mile trip back to work to install the new pump. It was nearly 60 degrees F today and 2 more hours of daylight.
It is a cheap Chinese made pump assembly but mainly I was after the frame of the whole thing. It is easy to swap a higher end pump on
this piece than the original closed up in a plastic can. As soon as possible I will buy a replacement cartridge to be ready for that day.

This came with new wiring. I had to split the wire cover to pull the connector for the top of the tank so it would reach. 5 minute job.
When I put the assembly in, 2 bolt holes would not line up. I'm making the connections point the same direction of the stock pump.
Remember this is Chinese made. The arrow stamped in it is pointing towards the right rear tail light. 2 of the bolt holes won't line up.
You can see Sharpie marks.

I had to use a small chainsaw file to file the 2 holes that missed. Remember, this is made in China. It took 30 minutes and in and out of the
tank about 4 times removing the seal each time before filing. The seal had to be clipped a bit so that the seal wouldn't bump the bolts.

It is in. At 4:35 after connecting the fuel lines, it started. My old fuel pressure gauge must have bit the dust. 5.0 runs fine though. Thursday I will
reinstall the Marshall fuel pressure gauge. Next step is to do that and reinstall the left rear wheel. @410Fortune Thanks Jamie for directing
me towards the connector. Later on Thursday, get back onto the 4 post lift to address the exhaust system leak.

Merry Christmas I'm glad that Santa got here before sundown.

 

[CDW6212R]

Merry Christmas!

 

[allmyEXes]

EDITED: 12-25-24 @7 a.m. central.
1995 to 2001 Explorer 4.0 OHV and SOHC, and 5.0 fuel pump cartridge part numbers: The same fuel pump is used for ALL
Gen 2 Explorers regardless of engine size and return or returnless fuel systems. The difference would be in the PCM tune.
Carter 900003
Carter P74178
Bosch 69134
*Bosch 69131* added from @CDW6212R from Don's info
ACDelco EP372
I've heard several of you guys mention the best brand of fuel pump to get but I can't recall off of the top of my head.

 

[CDW6212R]

OEM or Bosch are the best liked brands, I bought about five last Spring when I was doing my 98. There are 2-3 part number which have the same pump unit, they differ by the miscellaneous stuff. Someone on eBay had one of them for about $25 each IIRC.

 

[CDW6212R]

I looked back at my eBay purchases, the unit I got was the Bosch 69131. That's the one I have in my 98 right now, and I bought four more back then.

Here's a link to the current item page, he's dropped the price to $19.90 each or less; Bosch Electric Fuel Pump 69131 For Nissan Ford Mercury Mazda Kia 1986-2004 | eBay

 

[allmyEXes]

@CDW6212R That's a really good price! I'm not sure how good the Carter pump would be but from the Rockauto page for the fuel
pumps 1998 Explorer fuel pumps I clicked on the highlighted 900003 pump number and was a little surprised to see all of the different
vehicles that the pump fits.
I was wanting to use a Bosch in the first place after working on old VW beetles and knowing Bosch company's good reputation.

 

[CDW6212R]

That was the best price I saw back then, now I noticed another choice was $18.99 for the same pump shipped. Many years ago the other version of Bosch was often $45, and that one is scarce now. The actual pump is the key part though, as long as it bolts in easily I like it. I only used the pump and rubber outer cover, and the rubber hose, the rest was extra parts. I think it had two rubber gaskets for some other applications. The wiring connector was correct, that was the big thing to me.

 

[Josh P]

Post #484 edited this morning.
This post will be deleted after everyone has had a chance to read updated post #484.

Good idea.

 

[Josh P]

LOL, you'll remember to delete yours too right?

You caught the joke, yes I will.

 

[410Fortune]

Small chainsaw?? This I gotta see

I can’t believe two holes didn’t line up… that’s a new one to me… I’m sure you have it orientated correctly or you wouldn’t have been able to plug in fuel lines

Anytime you find a “cheap Bosch” online make sure the pump actually a Bosch. It will say “made in Germany” on it
Several times in the last year I’ve seen a Bosch box shipped with a Carter pump inside
I think they sell the Bosch pump with no box at a discount. Then they put a $40 Carter pump in the Bosch box and sell it at a discount Bosch price $60-80) scam city
Most people open the box, see Carter which is made in USA.. and instead of returning and dealing with all that.. they just install it

Brett just went through this last month
It happened to me last summer
I returned my Carter pump and ordered a blue Bosch from rockauto
Sometimes they are avail sometimes not… supply chain issues

Merry Christmas!! Glad she is running my friend!!!

 

[410Fortune]

had to use a small chainsaw file to file the 2 holes

 

[allmyEXes]

@410Fortune You made me look at my post, chuckles. It figures that I had to make two new holes.
Me and my wife are going out to check out the new Waffle House that just recently opened in our hometown.
It's a "southern" thing, as far as I know...

 

[Josh P]

@410Fortune You made me look at my post, chuckles. It figures that I had to make two new holes.
Me and my wife are going out to check out the new Waffle House that just recently opened in our hometown.
It's a "southern" thing, as far as I know...

I like the All Star breakfast. The waffles are good with pecans added.

 

[allmyEXes]

At 1:30p.m. I finished the All-Star breakfast. I think that will be breakfast and lunch. I had the waffle plain and hash browns instead of grits.

 

[Josh P]

At 1:30p.m. I finished the All-Star breakfast. I think that will be breakfast and lunch. I had the waffle plain and hash browns instead of grits.

For the price, can't beat it. The wraps are no longer on the menu, but most locations get tortillas to make them.

 

[allmyEXes]

After the new "Chinese" fuel pump assembly install, I was able to do some battery swapping between the Ranger project and the '97MM
and then swap the two vehicles around and get the MM back in the building on the lift. I'm still experiencing the lean condition, and I could
see AFR reading varying around an expected air/fuel mix but then the gauge leans out off of the scale. You can hear a change in the engine too.
Late Friday afternoon, I went by our local Wal-Mart and purchased a group 65 battery. That took care of the battery shortage for now.
Before that, I removed the budget brand AFR gauge along with another cheap, cheapy that wasn't a wide band gauge ever even though it was
advertised as one. So now the front left pair of AFR bungs are open. I used one to install the new AEM AFR gauge/O2 sensor kit. $200-.
Very simple installation with good instructions. Anyone modifying their engine should have a stand-alone AFR gauge. It reads real time
air/fuel mix results. Future plan is to compare the $100- one to the $200- kit. But for the moment, since I have a very bad down pipe leak
on the right side of the exhaust system, I've moved the right bank O2 sensor to the left to give the PCM a steady exhaust flow without a
leak. I'm still only getting 31 pounds of fuel pressure. I trust the Marshall fuel pressure gauge but to just be sure, In the morning, I'm going
to AutoZone and put cash down on a loaner fuel pressure test gauge to verify that the used Marshall gauge is reading out properly. I
decided that I might should replace the fuel filter and ran up to Oreilly's and picked up a store brand filter. It made no difference in the fuel pressure reading. I have checked most of the stock fuel lines and the new braided lines but I'm not seeing any restrictive bends or kinks.
Just to be sure, I will look behind the driver's side heat shield to check the lines running through there.
The fuel tank is clean. The fuel filter is new. There are no fuel system leaks. I unplugged the vacuum line at the fuel pressure regulator and
the line is dry and no fuel is coming out. I'm suspecting that the new "Chinese" pump is not strong enough. I mainly bought it for the frame
and knew that the pump part wouldn't last long. I was planning to on Monday ordering a Bosch cartridge to have on hand, but I didn't know
that I might need it so soon. I'm still not quite sure about the fuel pressure regulator. It was working 71 months ago. So that is it until tomorrow.
Persistence.

 

[CDW6212R]

Keep with it, I hunted my issue while the fuel pressure was in the 31psi range, and eventually decided to change the pump. Mine ended up being that odd large vacuum hose going to the Evap canister, and my new pump pressure was still under 34psi(with two gauges).

So the fuel pressure minimum is in that low 30psi range, but where exactly is definitely too low, I'd guess right at about 30psi or just under that.

I have four extra Bosch 69131 pumps now, I'd gladly send you one. But the time for me to pack and get it shipped might be longer than if you decide you got it have it, and hit the buy button on your PC. If I had one of those mystery drones, I could drop it off to you we're so close.

 

[allmyEXes]

You've made me remember that the first thing on the to do list is use the smoke machine. I was up late last night waiting on the severe
weather to pass through. (Tired and overlooked listing that in the to do list.) I need to take the leftover 'Panama Jack' tanning oil to
use in the smoke machine. burning baby oil smells nasty. Waking up here for now. I haven't stayed up until 12:30 in a long time.
I'm finding conflicting info on fuel pressures for return style 5.0s. 41 or 46 pounds. Can a fuel pressure regulator be going bad and not leak?
I'm trying to not get ahead of myself here. Fuel pressure regulator at least $50-.

 

[allmyEXes]

I'm hoping to find a vacuum leak.
When searching for parts and other information, it's possibly conflicting information like this that makes me wonder which is best. The
FPR with the 'T' in the part number shows a different poundage than its 'brother' part. Look at the RockAuto info about each.
1997 Mountaineer 5.0 fuel pressure regulator. I certainly hope that this is not the problem. Quite a bit of disassembly would be required
to change this part without the chance of stripping out the screw holes, but that still doesn't take out the possibility of dropping and
loosing special Allen head fasteners. But I shouldn't get ahead of myself here. 'T' is the economy part number. Look at pressure range.