1997 MM 5.0 c-n-p conv. *IT RUNS! 1st CL drive Problem with Overdrive*

[Josh P]

Have you checked voltage at the tps?

 

[allmyEXes]

The TPS and the IAC will be tested too. I'm dealing with several used components here. It would not initially start because of a bad USED Camshaft position sensor. The Electronic part.
I'm ready to power up everything to write to this PCM. The '67 Mustang has a new battery in it. That is my stable 12.5 volt source. Waiting on Ken
to get here to watch while I do this so that he will know how to use this equipment.

 

[410Fortune]

Remflex gaskets? They handle gaps and won’t blow out

Has to be a pretty big exhaust leak to cause a stall, I suspect something else


No downstream cat
Monitors should just result in a cat efficiency code, not cause a stall

 

[allmyEXes]

I didn't check the voltage at the TPS but I did test the ohms of it at idle and full throttle. it has a problem with half of it that when it should be at 350 the dvom is showing 850. I have another used TPS at home. I wrote a copy of the 1999 Crown Vic P71 cop car bin file to the original PCM that I know works. It runs a good bit better with the 2nd PCM. I would think it will run better, rev up better, with a good TPS. I need some carb cleaner that isn't water based to clean the IAC and throttle body. Anyone know off a good budget brand? I'm going to back it off of the lift before going home.

 

[allmyEXes]

Thanks for the Remflex gaskets info. I'll check them out after a trip to town.
I brought to work the throttle body for the '54F100 5.0 that has a TPS on it. It was in worst shape than the one currently on the 97MM. Before
I left work, I ordered a new FoMoCo one. I will add TPS to the 54F100 project parts list.
With the 2nd PCM and faulty TPS, the truck will idle right at 24 seconds the starts running like crap and shuts down. I tried running it several times and at idle, it does it every time, 24 seconds. I'm going to let the poor truck rest for a few days while I wait on the new TPS. It did move under its own power off of the lift to outside where I was able to start it several times. Very rich in cold open loop. More later.

 

[410Fortune]

Did you do a sweep test on these tps sensors? They can be tested rather easily.. not often so they fail but I have had several with a “dead spot” half way through the sweep test

 

[allmyEXes]

The 2nd TPS had an open short on half of it. I didn't bother to put it on. Post #464 was a sweep test on first used TPS.

 

[allmyEXes]

The past week and a half ago, I got the truck running well enough to drive it off of the lift. The lift is needed for other vehicles.
I worked on the exhaust leaks/s and replaced a TPS with a new Ford one. I still have 2 leaks but I will need some Remflex gaskets and have someone make a new 2" downpipe that fits the '77 M II flange. Swell the end to ~2.25 and clamp it. I'm sure that even the best exhaust system guy wouldn't be able to weld up in the particular spot that the cut can be made. 2 inches in front of the o2 sensor. That means cut it about 3.5". Also, the manifold is so warped that the mating surface of the exhaust manifold really needs to go on a long sanding belt to true it up, 5 to 10 minutes. And last but not least, the fuel pressure is 22 #s. At the worst, it will need a pump.
From the first start, I was getting no injector pulse. I changed the used CamPS to another used one and it would start. It ran really crappy. I "read" or copied the bin file from the cop car pcm and "flashed" wrote the file to the 99 CV pcm that I knew was good. Then it would run for 24 seconds before running out of fuel. I confirmed. The low fuel pressure with 2 gauges. I'll be having to address that just as soon as I can get a pattern of the hole size and shape of the Gen II body (wife's truck). In the Gen 1 trucks, I have it figured out to where and old license plate or car tag covers the hole well and held down with 4 to 6self-tapping screws. In the Gen 2 trucks, the hole is a little wider. I'm putting a little work into the 54F100/99Ranger project, and it overlaps into my Aerostar project that will be getting the Ranger 3.0 powertrain. A link to each of the threads is below. I will update here when I have done all of the things on the list and get it to warm up enough to give me a good, hot AFR reading. We will go from there.
'54 F100 on a '99 Ranger chassis
'87 Aerostar converting to a '99 Ranger 3.0/auto-OBDII EEC-V3.0
I will start a new Mountaineer thread when I start on the bodywork and paint including resealing the back side windows that always leak.

 

[410Fortune]

We should be neighbors

 

[allmyEXes]

I would be over there a lot.

 

[allmyEXes]

Saturday afternoon I was able to get in a short amount of time towards one of the few issues keeping me from road testing this vehicle. There is a fuel pressure issue. I'm not sure if it is the pump cartridge or just a piece of leaking hose above the pump. Anyone that thinks that they might have to change a fuel pump in one of these trucks either on the trail or the open road or even in your apartment parking spot, making an access hole for the pump access is the thing to do. When I was doing this to another Explorer of ours, I cut an extra pump cover. FoMoCo should have
done this at the factory. Vise grips hold the hinged floor plate up.

Floor before marking and cutting.

Floor cut most of the way. stay really shallow on the left side edge.

Fuel pump access. A little more trimming to go after changing cut disc. Notice the 1/2" edge on the top and right side to hold the
cover plate up and to have something to screw into. Use your favorite sealer when closing it up.
ADDED 12-08-24 @6:15 a.m. I like these bolt in pump assembly's vs the lock ring type. These bolt in types can be modified to go in
antique vehicle tanks like 1954 F-100 tanks and early Mustang tanks too. I would assume that some tweaking would need to be done
to fit particularly the old Mustang tanks but not so much the '54 F-100 tank. It is almost as deep as the Explorer/Mountaineer tank. The
deepest Mustang tank of the 1965 through 1970 Mustangs is the 1970 tank which is 4 gallons larger than the 1965 16-gallon tank.

More later. ( Note to self. Remember to scrub the tank sending unit area with soap and water, rinse and dry before removing fuel pump
& sending unit from the tank. Put back in if leaving unattended to keep mice out.) Click on link below and go to post #87 through #100
to see what can happen if you leave your fuel tank open for an extended period of time. It took two of us with a four post lift several hours
to drop and clean the '92 4 door tank. A costly mistake. 1992 Explorer 4,0 OHV fuel delivery issue.

 

[CDW6212R]

Well done, that is the best hole I've seen so far cut through the floor to access the fuel pump. From that I can imagine it working well and being sealed properly with a proper sized cover plate.

I'm going to be modifying one of my pickups to house two pumps, and use AN fittings to get rid of the awful OEM connectors. I love the large pickup top and six bolts, all it needs is reliable fittings to be no headache instead of a huge PITA(connectors).

 

[allmyEXes]

@CDW6212R Thanks. My left side cut could us squared up a bit but will work. There is still a chunk of tin to finish cutting loose on the right side.
There is a 2nd layer to get through at a floor seam. It has 2 spot welds which will need broke a loose and about a ~1.25" strip of the 2nd layer
that needs trimmed too.

 

[CDW6212R]

It is a great project and anyone could do the same. I see finding the right best size for the hole to get the best access to the pump. Then making a template from that which is about an inch larger around, and cutting that out of another Explorer from a JY'd. That would be easy to seal securely, a line of RTV and a bunch of sheet metal screws, sweet.

 

[410Fortune]

Bronco ii so easy to make access panel
Ranger easy too or just lift the bed
Sport trac sucks the back of the passenger cab is right where the pump is so have to drop tank…. And they have a 23 gallon tank!!

Nice panel!

I like the next generation of fuel pumps like the mustangs and f150 where the height is spring loaded design. A Guy could retrofit that into just about any old hot rod and not worry about tank pump depth/ sender height as much

2004 FORD F-150 4.6L V8 Fuel Pump & Housing Assembly | Shop Now at RockAuto

Fuel & Air Parts and More for Your 2004 FORD F-150 at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.

www.rockauto.com

We need to find one like that which uses screws on top like you said

 

[allmyEXes]

When I adopted a used set of Wranglers ~3 to 4 years ago, I didn't plan on having to replace them right away. I have had a tire shortage
going on and 2 of the old set off of the '97MM need to go on the rear of the '97 Explorer that I'm currently driving. I took two more off of the
back of the '98 to go on the front of the '97 Explorer to free up the 2, 2002 Sport trac wheel/tire combos that need to go back on to the 2002. There was no way around having to buy some new tires for the '97 Mountaineer. 1.5 years ago, I bought a new Wrangler to put on to the '97 Explorer when I got ran off the road and destroyed the right front tire and damaged the wheel. That one moved to the right front of the Mountaineer. I had two good wheels with bad tires sitting that I cleaned up including the mounting edges. It might be starting to sound a bit confusing but with the help of my silver Sharpie I was able to write on the inside of some of them to keep organized.
Picture of wheel cleaned up sitting on one that needs cleaned up. 1974 model K-mart tire machine is hanging in there.

2 of the new Wranglers for the back of the Mountaineer. The Mustang would need about a 3" lift for the P235/75R15s.

One of the two mounted and balanced for the rear of the MM.

Right side of the Mountaineer, rear tire date 4424, front tire date 2223. Left rear off while some under left side work going on.

@Scotts96sploder Has me thinking about headliner material. I found some of the pattern that I like. It is meant for VW GTI seats. 59"
wide and has a 4mm foam pad bonded to the fabric. That may be thick enough. First, I have some exhaust work to do and buy a new battery.

More later.

 

[allmyEXes]

I think that I found my misplaced new gen 2 fuel pump.

@410Fortune Jamie, does this look like the gen 2 connector? I haven't opened the tank yet.

 

[97Sandbox]

Looks about right. Here's the original from my '00:

 

[allmyEXes]

Thanks for the info.

 

[allmyEXes]

The fuel pump that I have is not the right one for the Mountaineer. I have another on the way.
There is just as much tire repairing and swapping going on, on the '97 4.0 Explorer that I'm driving too. I'm making motions to sell it as
soon as the Mountaineer is drivable. The hood and rear hatch need to be swapped between the two vehicles. They are the same color.
RR Explorer tire broke down, cleaned the wheel and checked the tire. Maybe now it will stay inflated.
Old 1974 K-mart tire machine in the picture below.