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New guy needs help 2000 explorer 4.0

Codyloks

Active Member
Joined
February 25, 2025
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City, State
Cypress ca
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 ford explorer xlt
What’s up I’m Cody just bought a 2000 explorer xlt limited I hope u can get the answers I need
I’m having lean codes. I changed the o2 sensor then the codes 0174 0171
I checked I I believe to be the pcv valve. And changed it from a plastic to a metal one but the connector tee that goes ontop of the valve broke. It had two hoses connected to it on to each side of the engine valve covers. Idk if it anthe pcv valve cause I’ve looked everywhere for the one little connector tee and can’t find it. I just be looking for the wrong thing.

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So far I have superglued the jell out of it but it’s not gonna hold . If anyone can point me in the right direction on if this is the pcv valve and where to get the tee connector for the two hoses

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codes 0174 0171
Cleaning the throttle body and change the upper and lower intake seals
could be fixing the codes.
There is unmetered air caused by air leaks between MAF and O2 Sensors.
Get/rent a smoke maschine to find the leaks.
Check all vacuum lines and hoses,
canister purge valve maybe stuck open
EGR valve ok
DPFE sensor and its two rubber hoses ok
testinng fuel pressure

good luck
 






Oreillys has some good generic Ts that you will be able to use. Ive tried grabbing some of these in the junkyard and at this point they just turn into dust. You can add a small amount of vacuum line to the top of the valve and press fit it into generic t then attach the other lines. it is also likely what is causing your lean codes as those are direct vacuum lines.
 


















I can guarantee you it is the intake plenum o rings leaking both upper and lower sets need to be changed
Also a good idea to replace injector o rings and especially the injector seats while you are in there

I have fixed so many 171 and 174 codes over the years on sohc engines it literally takes me under an hour to do the job and working slowly and meticulous
 












Upper seals YL2Z9E436AA
6 lower seals YL2Z9461AA

Maybe it's important to say, be careful with the 8 upper intake screws.
Do not overtighten them cause they srewed into the lower only plastic intake.
Set them in by hand and try to set them in the same way they came out.
If the screws do not go in easyly, turn it back and try again.
There should be no resistance the first two turns, if there is resistance
the "plastic threads" maybe damaged/overtorqued.
Torque down in sequence, from the middle to both ends.
upper_screws.jpg



The lower bolts, found no sequence, think cross pattern, middle to the ends.
lower bolts.jpg


EGR o-ring

Intake seals

Maybe throttle body gaskets
 






Upper seals YL2Z9E436AA
6 lower seals YL2Z9461AA

Maybe it's important to say, be careful with the 8 upper intake screws.
Do not overtighten them cause they srewed into the lower only plastic intake.
Set them in by hand and try to set them in the same way they came out.
If the screws do not go in easyly, turn it back and try again.
There should be no resistance the first two turns, if there is resistance
the "plastic threads" maybe damaged/overtorqued.
Torque down in sequence, from the middle to both ends.
View attachment 462610


The lower bolts, found no sequence, think cross pattern, middle to the ends.
View attachment 462611

EGR o-ring

Intake seals

Maybe throttle body gaskets

Read this please it will save u some time and money
 






Hmmm well I can’t get to the junk yard I took off the super bundle I had going and I’m going to order that set up from ford part giant. And maybe the seals as well. Don’t have the tools but I will have to get them I’ll keep you guys posted.

Also I was told that “even if I fix these things the fact that it was sitting for two years and it’s age plus how dirty the catalytic converter is that it won’t pass a smog test.” Is that right. ??
 






Hmmm well I can’t get to the junk yard I took off the super bundle I had going and I’m going to order that set up from ford part giant. And maybe the seals as well. Don’t have the tools but I will have to get them I’ll keep you guys posted.

Also I was told that “even if I fix these things the fact that it was sitting for two years and it’s age plus how dirty the catalytic converter is that it won’t pass a smog test.” Is that right. ??
well since the vehicle is 25 years old it should not have to pass a smog test as it is exempt and considered a classic. I believe this is at the federal level, as I know the reason why we can import vehicles from overseas like Japan is that they are over 25years old and that applies to safety and emissions.

I don't know if California has any restrictions to this, but I know it applies in Texas
 






Whomever told you that a vehicle who sits for two years and now has no trouble codes won’t pass a smog test needs to elaborate or get a clue

A vehicle can sit for 20 years and be gotten running and go pass a smog test???

Now he may be referring to some emissions places require the computer to have completed all of its self testing and readiness monitors. You see as soon as you put a battery to it the truck will believe it is new and it is ready to learn. Even after you fix the codes it may not be done with all of its self learning and self testing.
These are displayed as “readiness monitors” on your scanner
Emission a holes will hook up to it and fail you simply because you have not driven it enough to complete them all
Check your
Local laws

How does he know uuur converters are plugged up? 171 and 174 are lean codes due to un metered air, once they are solved it’s not like your gonna have 20 more codes show up and it’s not
Like driving it with these codes automatically kills converters or makes them “dirty?”
Strange comments
 






Whomever told you that a vehicle who sits for two years and now has no trouble codes won’t pass a smog test needs to elaborate or get a clue

A vehicle can sit for 20 years and be gotten running and go pass a smog test???

Now he may be referring to some emissions places require the computer to have completed all of its self testing and readiness monitors. You see as soon as you put a battery to it the truck will believe it is new and it is ready to learn. Even after you fix the codes it may not be done with all of its self learning and self testing.
These are displayed as “readiness monitors” on your scanner
Emission a holes will hook up to it and fail you simply because you have not driven it enough to complete them all
Check your
Local laws

How does he know uuur converters are plugged up? 171 and 174 are lean codes due to un metered air, once they are solved it’s not like your gonna have 20 more codes show up and it’s not
Like driving it with these codes automatically kills converters or makes them “dirty?”
Strange comments
I’m in California and I have a fib that can erase the codes but the light keeps coming back. I need to register it and in order to do that I need to pass a smog. I don’t actually know what’s happening. I’m gonna have trouble running it without it being registered . I changed the pcv valve and hoses added clamps. But I hear a hissing sound coming from the engine idk but it’s running now I bought a brass hose tee and new hoses. But you’re saying running it will. Solve the problem of the lean code
 






erase the codes but the light keeps coming back.
I don’t actually know what’s happening.
Follow 410fortune advice, the hissing sound and lean codes will went away.
 






You have to fix the codes

Hissing noise not allowed must find source
Usually when taking the intakes off any vacuum leaks or
Broken fittings will be pretty obvious

In California you cannot erase the codes then go for the test you will fail

Read above
Several drive cycles required after clearing trouble codes for the factory computer to complete All Readiness monitors
Only Then you will pass

California the most stringent emissions in the world
 






You have to fix the codes

Hissing noise not allowed must find source
Usually when taking the intakes off any vacuum leaks or
Broken fittings will be pretty obvious

In California you cannot erase the codes then go for the test you will fail

Read above
Several drive cycles required after clearing trouble codes for the factory computer to complete All Readiness monitors
Only Then you will pass

California the most stringent emissions in the world
Well I’m confused on which to do… well obviously find the hiss. Fix the hiss. Lean codes will persist I’m assuming. Several drive cycles needed but is a drive cycle ?
 






Drive cycle is start run drive sometimes 2 miles sometimes it takes 100
Sometimes it takes only a few short trips
Other times it takes many and a longer one
It just depends on how quickly your pcm can learn and process and test all the sensors and modules
The scanner should be able to tell you if readiness monitors are pending, how many and which they are

Don’t be confused
Fix the 171 and 174 codes (intake plenum gaskets upper and lower)
Find and fix the hiss
You can drive it and see if the 171 and 174 clear up on their own. This also gives you more time to complete all monitors
 






Drive cycle is start run drive sometimes 2 miles sometimes it takes 100
Sometimes it takes only a few short trips
Other times it takes many and a longer one
It just depends on how quickly your pcm can learn and process and test all the sensors and modules
The scanner should be able to tell you if readiness monitors are pending, how many and which they are

Don’t be confused
Fix the 171 and 174 codes (intake plenum gaskets upper and lower)
Find and fix the hiss
You can drive it and see if the 171 and 174 clear up on their own. This also gives you more time to complete all monitors
I got it. Fix the codes. Find fix hiss. Pass smog !
Also I noticed the my speedometer has a habit of twitching or not working properly while running both fast and slow speeds.
 



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