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man why would you pay some one to do such an easy job, first time I ever did mine it took maybe a half hour tops. the passenger rear plug #3 you can get to from underneath 10 mins tops. the others are like 2 mins a piece. so thats about 20 mins. just don't be intimidated by this. You think...

well you did the right thing how to diagnose it. basically when you are looking for your parsitic loss as its called you check the parasitic loss at the battery and pull 1 fuse at a time to see what circuit its in. Steve gives a good suggestion about the relay. relays are switches internally...

also the distinct possibility the fan clutch is worn out depends on the rest of the symptoms. if you have hot air come out, then its probably the dash sending unit like others have said. the are a thermosistor (basically means its a heat activated resistor) so any junk or whatever will throw...

definately would want something made to mount a winch or made to mount a winch first and foremost then worry about a bar up front

is there a reason you could not install it on a 1st gen? Couldn't you just drill mounting holes where you needed them for the bar and mount it?

thanks bud, I went over to howstuffworks.com and read up on 4wd and it doesn't give much reason other than its bad for it and causes excess wear. I felt that binding last weekend, pulled in to a parking lot that must have been clear enough and when I turned into a spot it was like the truck...

my question is why is it bad to drive in 4x4 on dry paved roads? say you are driving to work in mixed conditions never knowing when you are gonna hit some big snow drift or ice and want 4wd on? what happens additional stress wise to the system if you drive on dry pavement? is it the transfer...

on mine it was a major PITA to get the stock bolts out of the top of the shackles and from the leaf spring eyelet itself. I had to cut the front and back of the bolt off, and then air hammer them out. on one I had to drill a hole in the bolt and then air hammer it so it gave up some tension. I...

thanks guys, going to try an air hammer this weekend see if that solves the problem. Are bushing readily stocked if I do need them at most parts stores?

its the bolts holding the shackles on in the rear. the upper and lower so I can install the lift shackles. I tried 2 days in a row, no luck. Didn't try an air hammer yet as I don't have one, but can buy one. I have a grinder, cut off wheel, etc that may make it easier.

searched and almost every thread said pretty much like yeah they "slide right out" when you take the tension off the leaf spring. well thats fine and dandy, but mine don't at zero tension or fully loaded, even beating on it with a mini sledge. I think my best option is to grind the head off...

we have the avid's on my wife's Civic. Never thought of putting them on the Ex. Price is nice especially with the wheels. gives me something to think about. was going to go with 31s and something more rugged looking but these are a top choice now. Looks great

Bought rough country front lift parts and Rancho 5000s from him. Excellent to deal with. Very trusting, quick to ship them out. Recommended

bought Warn manual hubs and conversion kit from him. Excellent communication, perfectly packed, like new condition. Would do business with again anytime. You won't be dissappointed

there can be more wrong that just a leaf spring for the rear alignment to be off. There are many factors. its worth getting done if you have some miles on it. If nothing else they can tell you what may need to be replaced or close to it

ok got a bit more than 500 miles on them now and I must say its a night and day difference over my overdue Sensatracs I took off. The new ones are a bit stiff at times but I am not certain that you would want them any softer 99% of the time. They eliminated 90% of the front end shake at 65 mph...

put em on in like 2.5 hours. front took minutes, rear were death. damn bolts were like the tightest bolts ever in the rear. they both broke obviously once I could even move them. I think I need to step up to the 1000 ft/lb TQ 3/4" impact wrench :) first impressions are very good, will have...

ok I forked over the $24 each for the Gas Ryder LT with VST shocks. I will put them on today and I have about 500 miles to drive this weekend so I will have some kinda impression to post Sunday afternoon/night on this same thread. By the way I was under my truck yesterday and pulled with 1...

at Autozone there are 3 affordable choices Red Ryder Gas shocks, $13 each Sport Ryder, $18 each and Gas Ryder LT, $24 each I have alot of bouncing, uncontrollable sometimes on big pot holes and such, tons of brake drive and it I hit the gas at say 1 mph the front end lifts like a drag...

mine would do the same thing, took awhile searching here and trying to track down what was wrong, it lead me to the cat, so to see if that was truely the problem I took it off and "gutted" it and now it works fine. Fortunately we do not have emissions of any sort here in my part of Indiana so I...

I am in Westfield, and work in Carmel, just north of Indy, next to Noblesville.

would these be worth buying for a stock gen 1 sport? I need new shocks but have not decided what to get. Off roading to me is maybe a gravel road or some big pot holes :)

IIRC factory are 15x7 4.5" backspacing 5 x 4.5 bolt pattern

Permatex Ultra Copper is sensor safe, well the kind I bought before was. It saved me on some custom gaskets on a few projects before. its ugly but works :)

Thanks Kevin

specifically for the A4LD. I am looking for something with more stall speed and a higher torque multipication factor would be nice. I have looked and looked and the closest thing I could find was that Baumann could custom make one according to there site. Thanks

Hope it turns out great! I am in Westfield, In guys.

I think its most important in aluminum heads, when I was younger I never used the stuff and never had a problem

duragloss is made by Brothers Research, not anything related to Duralube. They don't claim anywhere how long it will last. As far as I am concerned I want to do a lab analysis of zaino vs duragloss because I 90% sure they are the same thing. they have all kinds of products not just some put it...

I was told by some Zaino distributor on a different BBS that some places had a chemical additive to that "spot-free" rinse water that made it not spot. no idea if its true though

I like Duragloss, alot of carquests have it and some Napas. Try it and I think you will like it. very similar to Zaino for cheaper and easy to get. I actually like it better than Zaino after using Zaino for about 2 years I gave it a whirl and never looked back

looks good! you can be like me and just risk it when it snows like I used to when I lived in Illinois, got caught many times with slicks or drag radials on sports/muscle cars :) its an intense drive :confused:

I use the standard black magic tire foam. works well but if you don' t let it sit long enough you will see it on the side of your truck. i get it at walmart for cheap and it "cleans and shines" in 1 step. also works good under the hood makes the stuff look like new and well taken care off...

ok, I searched and searched here, other boards, web but I can't decide which is the lesser of the 2 evils: Earl Scheib or Maaco? I have the not so great peeling clear coat on my Blue 91 Sport roof, hood and slightly next to those areas. Just last week went to a shop local to me and got a...

I am going to take a shot and say fuel pressure regulator. Sounds just like mine was

Well its pretty orange peeled looking :) guess thats what I get for trying to use a gloss enamel instead of a flat paint and just clearing over that. it looks 100 times better than it did though. I will have to buy a buffer and see what it will do. a 30 second hand rub with 3m rubbing compound...

No idea on proper compression I am glad you got it running just fine! 140 sounds about right though for most engines I have tested

surface? I painted my fading black metal parts on my 91 yesterday. ya know the part on the lift gate and at the rear of doors. I primed them, put a few coats of black spray paint on, then a few coats of clear so they would hopefully last looking good. Wondering how long I need to let them cure...

they offer these at walmart, claim a 80k mile warranty. the tread pattern looks similar to my Wild Country tires on there now. are these any good for my first gen or junk?

makes me want to get some BIG tires :) even though the most off road mine sees is my gravel driveway :)