Fixing an Old 1st Gen

HI, Found this sight by accident and haven't turned off in 3 days.
I bought a '91 X 3 weeks ago and I'm trying to get it back to running right, it's almost there but I keep hitting walls. The big problem that I've been trying to fix is how rough it runs. I'm hitting 30,000 rpm's in to go 25mph which makes it obnoxiously loud. Did a full tune up which brought it down a bit but not where I think it should be. It idles fine in park at about 850. Thinking a cat converter is clogged and I plan to redo the whole exhaust in feb. That should solve something since I can see a leak from every gasket in the system. Problem 2 is that I keep popping the ignition fuse. It never blows, but sometimes when I go to start it, I get zero anything, no power inside no clicks or bells. I get out and pull the ignition fuse and put it back in and everything goes back to normal. Anybody got any ideas? Diagnosing is not my strong suit and I don't have much more than a basic socket set and screwdrivers to get me by. Thanks for putting this site up, it has been a great researching experience from day one.

Clean the MAF sensor if you haven't done so already.

Welcome to the site, it is great isn't it...

I'm not sure about the RPM problem, are you referring to the 1-2 shift point for the transmission? It's an automatic is it?

Also, it sounds as though you may have a problem with a loose connection if you have to pull the fuse and put it back in. There isn't any corrosion on the blades of the fuse is there? I would try a different fuse in there.

Definitely clean the MAF, you can do a search and find how to do it, also what exactly did you change when you did the tune-up?

I'll ask because Brooklyn will anyway, have your computer codes checked. This may pinpoint an issue.

I did the tranny fluid and filter, plugs and wires, and air filter. Brand new battery, did fuel pump and filter last weekend. Since I drained and filled the tranny I can't feel it shift like it hard like it used to. But when I change it from overdrive to drive it takes less rpm's to go, and when I leave it in 2nd, it seems to run just fine as far as rpm's. As far as the fuse, there is a slight bit of corrosion on the blades but the problem only happens when I shut it off then restart again within about an hour and it doesn't always happen.

camnnikki said:

I'm hitting 30,000 rpm's in to go 25mph

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WOW

I figure you meant 3000rpms.

Welcome to the forum.

your right, forgive me. I'm hitting over three on the tach. I know I'm comparing apples to oranges but the last 16 year old car I had ('81 AMC Concord) didn't run like this. I haven't tried putting it on the highway, it's really just my project car. But I'd like to keep the project prior to the point of major overhauls.

but sometimes when I go to start it, I get zero anything, no power inside no clicks or bells. I get out and pull the ignition fuse and put it back in and everything goes back to normal.

The gen ones are famous for having corroded battery cables...internally, you can't see it just by taking a look...if they have never been replaced, they probably need to be. Mine had symptoms similar to yours before I replaced my cables about a year ago...totally fixed my electrical gremlins.

Battery cables are on my to do list since I keep having to clean the negative terminal and the square nuts are rounded out. Just a bit too rich for me right now, I think advance had them for 30 bucks each.

The basics as suggested by this site many times are: first and foremost if you have a CEL get the codes read, clean maf and iac, plugs, wires and batt cables.

Welcome to the site and happy driving/wheeling with your newly aquired ex. This site is addicting but a wealthspring of knowledge and good people.

I'm doing the MAF in the morning, plugs and wires were done two days ago. Battery cables will have to wait till next month since the government doesn't really pay to well. What boggles my mind is that there is no CEL coming up, even when it doesn't completely lose juice on me.

The cel light bulb may be out. Does the cel light come on(like all the other warning lights) when you first start the ex? Even if it's not the bulb it can't hurt to test for codes anyway.

In the time it took to write the last post, I was trying to remember seeing it come on but I can't say that I notice it. I'm still getting used to how the lights are set up since they are so different from my '05 Durango.

I'm sure other people have run into this issue before, but the electric gremlin took a huge chunk out of my butt this morning. I'm getting ready to replace the negative battery cable, but instead of the lead running to the fenderwall and the main cable running to the block, I've got to leads that run into an electrical connector (like the one the fuel pump plugs into). Every replacement cable I've found at the parts stores (Napa, Advance, and Autozone) have nothing even remotely close. Is this a piece I have to get from Ford? Being New Years Day, they are all closed and I want to get it running again.

How about the ECU relay?

Based on the time I've spent with it today, if I get power when I put the key in, then I go to start it and get one click and lose all power. I can get out and wiggle the battery cables and get the power back on but still cranking. I unplugged whatever the 2 negative leads plug into and it made no difference. So I decided my last ditch effort to figure it out was to try and jump the starter. I put the jumper cables on to the battery and moved the terminals until I got electricity back and decided just for kicks to give it the key a shot with no luck. I figured I'd get the power back and plug the lead connector in which made a "whooshing noise like it turned on the fuel pump or something (brand new pump as of last week) so I turned the key and the motor turned over just fine. Took the jumper cables off and drove around for a few minutes then shut it off again, gave it a few minutes and turned it back on and it worked like nothing was ever wrong with it. I know I'm long winded but the more information the better right? Either way my next thought is either the fuel pump relay or ecu relay along with the cables.

So did you get the new copper positive battery cable installed? might as well get a new starter since your going to be down near there anyway...

I haven't been able to install anything today. Since both positive and negative cables have 2 leads each (negative with an electrical connector on it) I think I have to bite the bullet and drive up to ford.

LT. Jim, What color is your X? I'm painting mine in the spring and I leaning towards a nice dark green. Right now it's code DA (Cayman) and it just looks turquouse which isn't horrible but not my favorite color.

Just found a great deal on a Midland 1001Z CB which got very good ratings.


Camnnikki, You live in my old neck of the woods. I grew up in Stony Point New York, about 10 miles or so from you. Used to go to Highland falls a lot. A relative of the original owners of the "Thayer Hotel" lives right here in Mooresville. Small world. Are you a Cadet or in the military?

Based on the time I've spent with it today, if I get power when I put the key in, then I go to start it and get one click and lose all power. I can get out and wiggle the battery cables and get the power back on but still cranking.

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That's exactly what mine does when the battery cables are loose, and the bolts are in bad enough shape that I can't tighten them up. In a pinch, I have been known to grab a small sheet metal screw (or similar) and screw that in between the battery cable clamp and the post to "tighten" it up and get a good connection. I may have missed it, but did you replace the cables, or is that still to come? how are those connections?

My 91 had a recall on battery cables like 12-years ago.

Relays are cheap and easy. I would get motorcraft relays.