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Fixing an Old 1st Gen

I haven't been able to install anything today. Since both positive and negative cables have 2 leads each (negative with an electrical connector on it) I think I have to bite the bullet and drive up to ford.

I had the same problem when I shopped for cables. I finally bought from Ford, both the pos and neg cables...and was not disappointed, other than the price. These are beautiful, high quality cables that fit my vehicle perfectly. Took me half a day to do the install. Also put a new starter solenoid in just to make sure the entire circuit was clean...my starter was already relatively new (reman).:us:
 



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I called ford and the guy couldnt tell me if it was the right cabels or not but he wanted me to pay 60 bucks for 1 cable. I did a little more checking and found the same one at NAPA for 27 so I went and got it. Given the fact that I've owned this truck for three weeks, I have no clue of the history. I'm beginning to thing alot of things are still original. When I took the fuel pump out the top looked just as rusted as the leaf springs. So I think I have a lot of work ahead.
 






Ok heres the update for anyone with the same problem. I changed the negative cable today (that was fun) but I'm sure the gremlin will hang around until I do the positive cable. The big thing was the RPM issue. I figured out that it was not shifting on it's own at all. So I did my homework and was getting ready to adjust the bands and check the modulator. Low and behold the modulator was letting fluid up into the vac line. Ended up changing it out and now it shifts, first time I let myself take it on the highway. It's still a little funny so I think I'll have it rebuilt next month regardless, theres a good chance it's pushing almost 200,000 miles, gauge says 97,000+ and it's a '91 so I think it's turned over at least once. Thanks to everyone who jumped in to help me out.
 






Ok heres the update for anyone with the same problem. I changed the negative cable today (that was fun) but I'm sure the gremlin will hang around until I do the positive cable. The big thing was the RPM issue. I figured out that it was not shifting on it's own at all. So I did my homework and was getting ready to adjust the bands and check the modulator. Low and behold the modulator was letting fluid up into the vac line. Ended up changing it out and now it shifts, first time I let myself take it on the highway. It's still a little funny so I think I'll have it rebuilt next month regardless, theres a good chance it's pushing almost 200,000 miles, gauge says 97,000+ and it's a '91 so I think it's turned over at least once. Thanks to everyone who jumped in to help me out.

When you changed out the modulator did you do it from underneath, or remove the carpet and go through the transmission hump?
 






I went through the hump. If I went through the bottom, I'd have to try and pull down the cat's and judging by the 7 hrs it took just to drop the skid plate from the gas tank I decided not to go there. It looks like the cats have never been touched so the bolts are in bad shape.
 






I went through the hump. If I went through the bottom, I'd have to try and pull down the cat's and judging by the 7 hrs it took just to drop the skid plate from the gas tank I decided not to go there. It looks like the cats have never been touched so the bolts are in bad shape.

:salute: Thanks for the info.. I need to change my modulator out (leaving work o n Thursday I heard a pop under the hood and 3 of the vacuum lines on the intake manifold blew off :eek:) I put them back on, but the were oily and barely fit on. After doing a little searching here I discovered its %99.9 the vacuum modulator. I was just debating which way to go...through the T-Hump or underneath and start pulling off the factory cats which have never been touched.. BTW How long did it take you to do this going through Hump?
 






Honestly it probably took me about an hour. It might take longer since I got frustrated and took a hammer to it to get it out. I figured the cat would take way too long and I would still have to go through to top to get the heat shield off. The whole process payed off a little since it does shift on it's own again but the tranny has to be good and warm. I think I'll look at messing with the govenor next. I live on the side of a mountain so I need it to shift properly.
 






Honestly it probably took me about an hour. It might take longer since I got frustrated and took a hammer to it to get it out. I figured the cat would take way too long and I would still have to go through to top to get the heat shield off. The whole process payed off a little since it does shift on it's own again but the tranny has to be good and warm. I think I'll look at messing with the govenor next. I live on the side of a mountain so I need it to shift properly.

I did this Sunday afternoon in about 3 leisurely hours. It took me 3 hours because my center console is wired up and I had to play around with the best way at removing it. I removed the front seats, center console, pulled back the carpet, and removed the access panel. I then sprayed brake cleaner around the old vacuum modulator to clean it up as was dirty.. I removed the heat shield (10mm nut), and then removed the modulator bracket (10mm stud). Unfortunately I then removed the vacuum modulator and didn't realize transmission fluid would start coming out :splat: I had to hustle and get my drain pan. I then used my air compressor and blew the Transmission line clean from where it mounted on the intake manifold. I lubed the new modulator's "O" ring with ATF slid it in place ensuring the old pin was installed. It didn't look like it seated enough, but when I examined the old one you could see the dirt line where it sat and all was good. I re-installed the modulator bracket and heat shield using a little loctite. I then reinstalled the rest of the parts using Anti-Seize on all bolts that showed signs of corrosion mainly the (access panel screws & rear seat bolts).

I added 1/2 qt of ATF (slightly more than what drained out) and took it for a leisure 5 mile drive around town, It smoked for a while do to spilled ATF on the CATS, but otherwise drove fine. I returned home and changed my oil (I was do anyway). The only issue I had before fixing this was the vacuum hoses popping off and causing air leaks (I had no driveability issue with the engine or transmission). I still need to replace the various rubber elbows and fittings @ the intake port as they are very loose from being damaged by the ATF.
 






Dude you should definitely replace both the ECU relay and the fuel pump relay. Those relays do not last forever and when they fail they will either leave you stranded or mysteriously discharge your battery. They are a well-spent $20 each. A 20-minute job. You have to move the fuse block out of the way to access the relays. Once you look at it you'll figure it out.
 






I figured an update was in order for all those who have helped as well as those with similar problems. Since changing the modulator, I now have the issue of it not shifting when it's cold. Not so much 1-2 but anything higher than that. I have to redline the tach before it will hit third and then it immeadiately hits fourth. It has a strange shudder and hesitation right around 45 mph and slips gears every few minutes. Once in a while I'll get a nive shudder and grind out of the rear end too and not from chirpping the tires. So whoever on here said leave a geriatric transmission alone, I will definately follow their advice.
 






slipping? bad tranny?

i know when my tranny was bad, i was redlining before it would shift as well...
 






I figured an update was in order for all those who have helped as well as those with similar problems. Since changing the modulator, I now have the issue of it not shifting when it's cold. Not so much 1-2 but anything higher than that. I have to redline the tach before it will hit third and then it immeadiately hits fourth. It has a strange shudder and hesitation right around 45 mph and slips gears every few minutes. Once in a while I'll get a nive shudder and grind out of the rear end too and not from chirpping the tires. So whoever on here said leave a geriatric transmission alone, I will definately follow their advice.

You might find this interesting dude...

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=165567

Might be worth a try.
 






That "Thread" for the proper band adjustment might help, but the Auto Trans. fluid level, I belive is the biggest problem, from my experience....
 






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