Crankshaft Pulley Bolt

So I have a leak at my timing chain cover and I need to replace the gasket.

I've already done all the necessary disassembly (fan clutch, radiator, water pump, etc) but before the timing chain cover will come off I need to get the Crankshaft pulley center bolt out.

I already have the Harmonic balancer puller tool, but I use that after I get the main bolt out, right? I've read that the bolt can be broken by resting a breaker bar on the frame and popping the starter, but with my heads off waiting for new gaskets that's not much of an option.

I've never worked with this area and I'm not entirely sure how it all works, if anybody has any pictures or general info it would be very helpful; the Haynes Manuel is very broad for this.

Use a bar to lock the flexplate/flywheel...

Then turn the harmonic balancer bolt to loosen it... And don't forget that this bolt is a torque to yield so you need a new bolt...

The harmonic balancer bolt is TTY?

There is a trick to pulling the balancer....

Take 3 of the 4 bolts that are used to fasten the A/C compressor to the bracket.

Use 2 of those bolts in your Harmonic Balancer Puller assembly. NOT the ones in the kit. They are usually too short, and will only engage 1 or 2 threads...NOT ENOUGH.

The A/C bolts are plenty long, and they have the correct threads.

And with the 3rd one.....well, it gets complicated here.

Use the Factory Balancer Bolt as your press point, with it having only 5-10 threads engaged. Once you get to the point that the Balancer is pressed up against the Bolt, pull the Balancer Bolt out, and replace it with the MUCH longer THINNER, 3rd A/C bolt. Now use the head of IT as your press point.

And it is out.

Getting it in....that's a different story. I heat mine up in the oven, 225-250 for 15-20 min. Then with oven mitts on, I use a wooden block pressed up against the balancer, and tap it in about 1/2". Then I install the Balancer Bolt, and press it back into place.

They actually make a Balancer Press Tool, they are available on eBay....but I like my method better...Car parts in the $2000 oven! Who doesn't like that (disclaimer: I am not responsible for your wife/girlfriend/mom/dad getting mad at you for putting car parts in the oven)


Ryan

Please excuse my ignorance but...

What do you mean by TTY?

I'm having trouble understanding what the third A/C bolt is used for. I don't know what you mean by "press point." Ultimately I'm just too unfamiliar with how the Balancer comes off, sorry

My problem right now is that the Balancer bolt is still in Balancer. When I turn the bolt the whole engine turns, am I wrong in thinking I need to take it out?

TTY = Torque to Yield. TTY Bolts are intended to be tightened to the PEAK of the fasteners holding ability, stretching the bolt. The tightening procedure for a TTY bolt goes something like:

Tighten the bolt to 115 ft/lbs, then Turn the Bolt another 90 degrees.

These type of bolts usually don't rebound when loosened, so once they are stretched AND heat cycled, they shouldn't be re-used, These are USUALLY only used in Head Bolts.

The 'Press Point' is what the Long Black Oxide Threaded Bolt in the center Harmonic Balancer Pulley Removal tool will be pressing against, in this case, it will be the head of the Balancer Bolt, to start with......Loosen the balancer Bolt, and the Long Black Oxide Threaded Bolt will be pressed up agains the head of the Balancer Bolt, until you run out of room. Then, you totally remove the balancer bolt, and replace it with the 3rd A/C bolt, using the head of the A/C bolt as your new Press Point.

Ryan

Alright thanks, I think I've got the that part down.

The Manuel states that "the manufacturer recommends replacing the bolt," yes.

So now just to get it loose ...

If you have access to an air impact gun that has worked for me in the past in removing the harmonic balancer bolt. When I did my underdrive crank pulley though, I tried the "breaker bar on frame and pop the starter" method and that worked great.

Loosening balancer bolt

Ford uses a special strap wrench to hold the pulley from moving while loosening the bolt. I have not been able to find a suitable alternative to the strap wrench if the engine is in the vehicle. Most members are successful using an impact wrench. I don't have one and tried hitting the end of my breaker bar with a 4 lb hand sledge as a substitute but the engine just turned and with the SOHC I don't like rotating the engine counter-clockwise. I believe the breaker bar and starter motor is about the only thing you can try if you don't have access to an impact wrench.

After getting it off, you'll have the problem of torquing the new bolt to the proper value without the engine turning. I don't know how that is possible with the engine in the vehicle without using a strap wrench. The strap wrench wraps around the rear part of the balancer which is smaller in diameter. If it is applied to the front part that is large in diameter the cushioning material will tear and there is the risk of the outer part separating from the inner part which can cause significant damage.

I've considered trying to use a large pipe wrench but the idea repulses me and there probably isn't room for it to fit. Since I still have my engine out I'll go try it.

Using a pipe wrench

A pipe wrench may be a suitable alternative to using a strap wrench when tightening or loosening the crankshaft balancer bolt. A typical pipe wrench is shown in the photo below.

The span between the jaws as identified by the green arrows must be at least 4 inches. The depth of the jaws as identified by the red arrows must be greater than 2 inches or the damper will hit the rear of the upper jaw adjustable support and the jaws will not grap properly. My 14 inch wrench with a 4 inch span between jaws was not deep enough to use.

The jaws should be applied in the area of the balancer identified with the green arrows in the photo below. Avoid the area identified with the red arrows because of the indentations for the crankshaft position sensor. If these are damaged by the wrench the engine may not start or run properly. A bolt may be passed thru the end of the wrench and a chain. The other end of the chain may be bolted to the head to keep the wrench in position allowing one person to accomplish the task.

I do have access to an impact wrench but it's on the smaller side and hasn't been able to get the job done.

I have what looks to be that exact pipe wrench but it comes up just a fraction of an inch short, maybe I'll run to home depot and look for a bigger tooth bit thing.

I've tried everything but putting the transmission in gear (ouch!) and I'd pull the engine if I could but I've never done it before and don't have access to a lift. Should I just keep trying with the impact wrench? It's borrowed and I only have a small compressor so I'm limited to pretty intermittent use.

Can't torque it with an impact wrench

I had the same problem when I tried my 14 inch pipe wrench. An 18 inch pipe wrench may have a wider span range and be deeper. According to the Harbor Freight website an 18 inch steel wrench costs $9.

I might go check one out this weekend and buy it if suitable. Even if it has deep enough jaws I don't know if they'll slip on the balancer. According to Haynes you should torque the bolt to 30 to 37 ft-lbs plus 90 degrees. That may be equivalent to 100 ft-lbs.

Even if you get it loose with an impact wrench, it would be difficult to torque it to specification with an impact wrench.

I'm more than willing to shell out for a bigger wrench, I'm just scared that once I get the balancer off it's not going to get back on there right, despite my best efforts.

I have a torque wrench, but of course torquing the bolt brings up the same basic issues as breaking it to begin with.

I scraped off the water pump gasket and cleaned the area thoroughly today. My new head gaskets came in so I'm tempted to throw everything back together with all new gaskets and check for leaks again; it may have never been the timing chain cover.

Thanks for all the info and time you put into this Street, if I end up going through with pulling the balancer this will be very helpful.

I've used a chain type oil filter wrench and a air gun

I usually cheat and put a pair of vise grips on the fly wheel so when I turn the crankshaft bolt they rest against the block... Same for tightening just be on the other side of the motor... Have to take the starter and cover off underneath thou...

Just my two cents...

I know I'm resurrecting a REALLY old thread, but others will visit it. Just do this: