Camshaft Position Sensor replacement--a bit of discussion

This thread will help with Camshaft position sensor alignment

the Haynes and the Chilton's manuals sure do scare a guy on this subject. Ford motorsports aren't much help either. they sold me the wrong "special"tool three times now. Manuals say if not aligned or synchronized serious engine damage could occur.
Info on the procedure here

http://autorepair.about.com/library/a/1h/bl025h.htm

Tool available here--
for 96-98 v8
http://www.autorepairmanuals.biz/site/573683/product/OTC6469

# TSB #13180 -- INFORMATION REGARDING CAMSHAFT POSITION (CMP) SENSOR ALIGNMENT TOOL CHART. *MJS (NHTSA ID #6090538, SEPTEMBER 01 1999)

and it looks like this

you moron! hahaha just kidding. You had me worried there for a second, I have dealt with these cam sensors a bunch recently and when I did my 5.0L I just makred it, pulled it, then re-installed in the same position. You had me scared for the first few posts in this thread hahaha
the cam sensor is only used for starting the truck from what I understand, it does nothing for timing and it is not critical what oriantation the stator is in when it is installed, it is just a stator!!
I guess I will know for sure REAL SOON

410Fortune said:

you moron! hahaha just kidding. You had me worried there for a second, I have dealt with these cam sensors a bunch recently and when I did my 5.0L I just makred it, pulled it, then re-installed in the same position. You had me scared for the first few posts in this thread hahaha
the cam sensor is only used for starting the truck from what I understand, it does nothing for timing and it is not critical what oriantation the stator is in when it is installed, it is just a stator!!
I guess I will know for sure REAL SOON

Click to expand...

Whoaaa!!!!
It is extremely critical for injector pulse timing.

critical that it is installed correctly, but not he position of the stator itself correct?
I mean I marked the housing to the block and installed it in the exact same position but I did not rotate the stator???

Help me!! I am firing it up this weekend hopefully....

am I screwed?

410Fortune said:

critical that it is installed correctly, but not he position of the stator itself correct?
I mean I marked the housing to the block and installed it in the exact same position but I did not rotate the stator???

Help me!! I am firing it up this weekend hopefully....

am I screwed?

Click to expand...

Correct, the stator is just starting to block the sensor gap when #1 is at TDC
compression stroke.
I burned the piston at WOT, cruised around for 1500 miles to break in with no problems. It was when I got on it, started to adjust my maf tuner and she SCREAMED ( for a second lol)
I borrowed the tool from a Ford Tech in Wichita, told me at first he didn't think it was critical, till Taurus's started coming in for callbacks with burned pistons ( guess they fail in those also)

Okay so with that tool, I take the top off the cam sensor, install tool, bring #1 to TDC then install the sensor into the block in the position where I marked it?? thanks for saving my ass with your first post on this board ever, years ago.....

Exactly
Install tool on sensor, Get #1 at TDC, then just drop it in. doesn't matter which direction the assembly is facing, as the tool aligns the whole assembly, stator-sensor, so it triggers when #1 hits ignition.
Get it?
Although facing forward makes it easier to connect the plug

Oh it will face forward...

Allright another tool to buy, what a shame (hahah yeah right)
I wonder if I can get it locally as that site you sent me to does not take credit cards and they DONT tell you what shippuing you are paying for? Weird......it just lists prices for shipping, does not tell you what the prices mean, then it says will ship in 5-10 days = SKETCHY!!

Or you can send me yours to use! hahaha

Someone on here said they had a loaner, don't know who.
I borrowed one from the wichita tech, but I did help 98mounty (less active member) change his. He has the tool for a 98. He is more active on another x site.

I bought it from tooltopia, next day air

Tool is $20, shipping is $30, hahahaha oh well at least I can get this ***** running!

Thanks for your help, last thing I need would be a friggin internal engine issue...

When you install the sensor, the tool is locked on top of the synch drive, slide it in and it rotates a bit as the gears mesh. Mine sits about 5:30 not quite 6:00( straight ahead) when it dropped all the way in. Did you save the stock oil pump drive shaft? It needs to mesh with the whole mess also, You'll feel it.

allright now you are just trying to confuse me

the tool is locked on top of the synch drive?

You mean the alignment tool gets inserted into the top of the camshaft sensor, locking the stator position in place, right?

save the stock oil pump driveshaft?

The oil pump driveshaft is what the cam sensor rides on top of just like a distributor correct? I never removed the driveshaft as I only installed a cam in this engine, this engine has 83K miles on it. When I put the sensor back in the block it went in just fine, just like a distributor. See I think you are just trying to confuse me or I am missing something. Please explain, I am working on this sucker tonight so I don't want to screw it up! My friends who would know this stuff are too busy with their projects to come over hahahaha friggin Brett and his 48 Mustang projects! heheheh
The answer is yes the sensor meshed with the oil pump drive, just like the cam sensor always doesn when I install them, like a distributor of "olden days" is this what you are trying to describe?
If it didn't mesh I would imagine you would have to fight the sensor to get the retainer and bolt in place hehehe

MY plan:
open beer and drink
remove cam sensor (now I have to move an AC line and some other crap to get access again)
Bring engine cyl #1 to TDC
Install alignment tool into sensor top, locking stator in position
Drop sensor into block, matching the mark I made on the block (sensor facing front of truck)
remove alignment tool and re-install cover/top
install retainer and torque down
drink another beer

Right?
phew!

You got it.
I wasn't trying to confuse, but this subject creates a paranoia in me!!
I refer to the shaft and stator as a synch drive unit, the plastic sensor that screws to the top is actually the sensor. The part that needs alinged, or synched, is the shaft assembly. You definitely know what to do.
That's why I don't sell for a living, I don't know when to shut up!!!!
Now go drive that thing!!

okay good please dont do that any more hahaha

This is why they put me behind a computer all day drawing boxes, I tend to over complicate things too......

And to have even more fun the cam position sensor tools are year specific. The one y'all have is for '96-98. The '99 to '01, like mine, have a smaller blade on the shaft and require a different tool.

where can you get the tool now...once you have it is there a more simple set of directions for removing and reinstalling and aligning. I got the crap confused out of me reading above.

Tip for reinstalling if using CMP positioning tool:

Dan using the cam synchro alignment tool is very easy to do. After installing the camshaft and about to reinstall the synchro you will ensure that piston #1 is at TDC on the compression stroke. Make sure it is TDC on compression and not on the exhaust stroke. Once the #1 piston is properly placed then just take the top cap (camshaft position sensor) off the camshaft synchro. You will see a little half moon shaped piece of metal in there. Take your alignment tool and slide it onto the synchro body and the little half moon piece. To get the tool on you will have to align things a little bit. Just take a good peek at the tool and you will see which way things will have to go. Once the alignment tool is popped on then things are properly aligned. Next install the whole unit into the engine. It will take a try or two but you are looking to get the synchro's positioning tool arrow as close to forward facing (stock position) as possible. If it is not forward facing then pull it up and rotate over to the next gear tooth. Keep trying till you get the proper tooth that allows it to face forward the most. Do not worry if it is not perfect. As long as the synchro is locked into position to the body and the piston is aligned properly then your cam timing will read properly in the PCM. Once you get the synchro in then bolt it down tight. Once that is done you can remove the alignment tool and install the camshaft position sensor piece and then you are done.

While the above paragraph may seem complex and wordy the process itself is very straightforward and easy to do. It is more or less a restatement of what was said before but hopefully I was able to put it into the right words where you can understand it.

Tip for reinstalling if NOT using CMP positioning tool:

If the synchro is still in the engine and you know it was timed correctly before then you can remove the top cap (camshaft position sensor unit) while the synchro is still in place in the engine. Then you will reference where the little half moon blade is in relation to the body of the synchro. This will allow you to reinstall the whole synchro assembly later and still keep things aligned. If you want to you can mark where the body of the synchro is in relation to the engine itself. These two reference points are all that is needed to reinstall the synchro properly. You will still want to make sure that when you take these reference points and when you reinstall the synchro that piston #1 is at TDC compression stroke. Once that is done then reinstall the camshaft position sensor onto the top of the synchro and bolt is back down with the two 6 or 7mm bolts.

how do I make sure that piston number 1 is at compression stroke and what is TDC. Sorry for the ignorance.

Top Dead Center=TDC

The piston will arrive at TDC twice in one complete cycle-once for the combustion stroke-once for the end of the exhaust stroke-
you need it at TDC for the compressoin, or combustion cycle-

the easiest method is to remove the spark plugs-so the engine will freely spin
Now-if you push you thumb over the #1 spark plug hole while a helper turns the crank pulley, you will feel a squirt of air COMING OUT-when you feel this positive pressure, you are on the compression stroke, and the piston is moving up to TDC-
Now look at the crankshaft pulley-there will be some timing marks
slowly rotate the engine (clockwise) until the 0 degree mark lines up with the pointer tab. You are now at TDC ( or very close to it)

If you go past the mark-you must rotate the engine 2 complete revolutions to gain TDC compression stroke again-

Just remember-the camshaft rotates once for every 2 revolutions of the crankshaft.
Compression stroke TDC is only achieved every 2 revolutions of the Crank shaft.