1000W Inverter and 12V cargo power installed in my 98 XLT | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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1000W Inverter and 12V cargo power installed in my 98 XLT

Desert_AIP

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Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 Explorer XLT 4WD
I use my 98 XLT for camping a lot. Usually it's just me and my wife, or one other person, and the rear seats are usually folded down.
So I don't need the rear HVAC or radio controls, and I already removed the CD changer and replaced it with the standard console insert.

That means I could remove the rear fan unit from under the console, that gave me a lot of space to mount an inverter.

I ran a 4 AWG cable through a 100A breaker in the engine compartment, then through the firewall through the grommet for the speedometer cable.
I used the duct under the console as a conduit to run the cable.

I mounted the inverter to the underside of the console steel with 1" nylon standoffs so it has a lot of airflow around it.
I was originally planning a 500W unit, but you can't run much off of that.
I mounted a distribution block with one 4 AWG input and four 8 AWG outputs and a 100A ANL fuse holder to the rear of the steel console skeleton.

I used a couple of the office plug in power strips that have 120V and USB ports, and just plugged them into the inverter outlets.
One in the rear of the console where the rear radio and HVAC controls were, and one in the rear cargo area.
There is also an 8 AWG wire that runs through a 20A fuse into the rear cargo area for 12V outlets to a panel with a 15A breaker/switch.

I had to wire a new on off switch for the inverter that I'll install in the slot for the old Kleenex box holder in the console. Still need to build the box for it.
I plan on upgrading the alternator to a 200A unit.
 

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Great job
 






The inverter cables are 6AWG, so I used a 4AWG to 8AWG adapter to interface with the distribution block.
I pulled the ground by attaching the ground cable under one of the middle console bolts.
The inverter also has a separate safety ground that I ran to one of the screw in the console frame.

I'll finish the rear cargo area power tomorrow and post pics.
The front section of the console mod also has off road lighting and a HAM radio that I'll post separately.
 






I have been trying to convince my wife to go camping just the two of us
I'm not having luck lol
 






Creature comforts go a long way into easing her into camping.
Do a quid pro quo.
 






Looks great. Secondary fusing is a little large and only really serves as short circuit protection, though.

I’m assuming it’s got a built in fan?
 






The manual asks for a 120A fuse. Are you talking capacity or physical footprint?

It's a Wagan Tech slimline 1000W inverter.
Rated for 1000W continuous and surge of 2500W.
I didn't think I needed the sine wave version.

Two internal fans. Manufactured in Taiwan, not PRC.
 

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That's a nice clean install, but what are you running that you need 1000 watts? Do you have a auxiliary battery or are you going to camp with the engine running? Reason I am asking is I have a small plug-in style 150 watt inverter that I take when I go remote car type camping and I rarely use that. I thought about installing a inverter in the Explorer (its about the only thing I don't have) but my power needs are very low when car camping. With that said, I still run all the accessories and stereo off the auxiliary battery. I would not have thought of using a power strip, that is creative. You might need a auxiliary battery and solar on the roof.

When I camp in the RV that is a entire different matter; 600 watts of solar panels, four 6 volt golf cart batteries, 2800 watt whole house inverter, 40" flat screen, DVD player, Netflix, laptop, microwave, etc.., but the solar charges the batteries.
 






I have been trying to convince my wife to go camping just the two of us
I'm not having luck lol
Maybe if you didn't start packing for the trip with a tarp, shovel, rope and a bag of lye??
 






The manual asks for a 120A fuse. Are you talking capacity or physical footprint?

It's a Wagan Tech slimline 1000W inverter.
Rated for 1000W continuous and surge of 2500W.
I didn't think I needed the sine wave version.

Two internal fans. Manufactured in Taiwan, not PRC.
100A fusing and then 8 gauge wire. In an over current situation you’d burn that 8 AWG before opening that fuse. If you shorted directly to ground, it’d open.
 






The inverter is wired with the supplied 6AWG cables. Breaking off from the 4 AWG supply.
DC Ampacity for a 2 foot run of 8 AWG is 200A, 6 AWG is about 225A for the same length of cable.
The 4AWG feeder is about 8 feet and has a DC ampacity of 140A at that length.
I think the 100A fuse and breaker would trip/blow before the ampacity of the wire is exceeded.

That 8AWG line runs aft to the 12VDC ports. I used 8AWG for a bit of overhead. The circuit breaker on that panel is 16A and the inline fuse is 20A.
10 feet of 8 AWG would handle around 40A.


I wanted a bit larger inverter than I would need. I have taken a toaster oven and generator camping before. I could run it off this setup, with the engine routinely cranking, and not have to bring the genny.
Also I want the capacity to run tools if I needed to, like a recip saw or angle grinder. Again I'd run the engine, just like I do with the winch.

I carry a portable LiFePo battery and solar panels to run my refrigerator and charging station for radios and other devices when camped.
In transit, that portable battery will be plugged into this inverter and the fridge plugged into either the battery or the 12V port.
So I have a dual battery system that can be easily removed from the vehicle.
 






Maybe if you didn't start packing for the trip with a tarp, shovel, rope and a bag of lye??
This comment had her dying at 6am
 






The inverter is wired with the supplied 6AWG cables. Breaking off from the 4 AWG supply.
DC Ampacity for a 2 foot run of 8 AWG is 200A, 6 AWG is about 225A for the same length of cable.
The 4AWG feeder is about 8 feet and has a DC ampacity of 140A at that length.
I think the 100A fuse and breaker would trip/blow before the ampacity of the wire is exceeded.

That 8AWG line runs aft to the 12VDC ports. I used 8AWG for a bit of overhead. The circuit breaker on that panel is 16A and the inline fuse is 20A.
10 feet of 8 AWG would handle around 40A.


I wanted a bit larger inverter than I would need. I have taken a toaster oven and generator camping before. I could run it off this setup, with the engine routinely cranking, and not have to bring the genny.
Also I want the capacity to run tools if I needed to, like a recip saw or angle grinder. Again I'd run the engine, just like I do with the winch.

I carry a portable LiFePo battery and solar panels to run my refrigerator and charging station for radios and other devices when camped.
In transit, that portable battery will be plugged into this inverter and the fridge plugged into either the battery or the 12V port.
So I have a dual battery system that can be easily removed from the vehicle.
Do you expect to be utilizing the inverter anywhere near capacity while driving? Better have a huge battery installed: 1000 watts fed by 12 volts equates to over 90 AMPS, more if other than sine wave output.
 


















Do you expect to be utilizing the inverter anywhere near capacity while driving? Better have a huge battery installed: 1000 watts fed by 12 volts equates to over 90 AMPS, more if other than sine wave output.
Not at all. The only thing I can see using while driving would be the fridge and maybe charging a laptop or something similar.
I don't foresee using the max capacity of the inverter much, but wanted the overhead just in case.
 






Finished the rear power today.
 

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I mounted two 12 volt power sources (1 dual USB with volt meter, one cig lighter type plug) on the top of the driver side rear panel so if the cargo area was loaded I could still access the charge plugs. I'm in the process of adding one plug to the opposite side panel. They are wired to the auxiliary battery. If I ever hard mount a inverter, I am stealing your power strip idea because that looks like a custom clean install and not a power strip.
20200521_165210.jpg

I have been looking at portable solar panels to keep the battery charged, but would only really need one if I purchased a 12 volt fridge. I use an old fashioned cooler and freeze all my water bottles. It will last a week in warm weather.
 






I mounted two 12 volt power sources (1 dual USB with volt meter, one cig lighter type plug) on the top of the driver side rear panel so if the cargo area was loaded I could still access the charge plugs. I'm in the process of adding one plug to the opposite side panel. They are wired to the auxiliary battery. If I ever hard mount a inverter, I am stealing your power strip idea because that looks like a custom clean install and not a power strip. View attachment 316539
I have been looking at portable solar panels to keep the battery charged, but would only really need one if I purchased a 12 volt fridge. I use an old fashioned cooler and freeze all my water bottles. It will last a week in warm weather.
Nice!

Where/how did you mount a second battery?
 



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Before I went with a solid axle swap and 14" coil over shocks, I had both batteries in the engine compartment. Auxiliary battery was directly opposite the primary battery's stock location. I'm not sure if one would fit with your Explorer. After the axle swap, I had to move the air intake because it was in the same space the coil over hoop needed to be, so I used a 1999 Explorer intake that ended up where the primary battery goes on the 1994. Moved the primary to the auxiliary location. Have 35" tires and the spare is on the bumper so I made a battery mount that lays a Optima on its side in the old spare tire well.
Here is a picture of the spare tire well. It has the battery along with a air compressor and air tank.
IMG_20150714_110828601 (Large).jpg


IMG_20150720_114211639.jpg

I have since added some extruded steel grate to protect the battery from the bottom and side. Battery mount material is mostly old bed frame angle.

I tried to find a picture of both batteries in the engine bay but can't fine one, sorry. I remember a member a long time ago who had a 2nd gen Explorer and he had two Optima batteries next to each other in the engine compartment. I think he relocated the radiator overflow and windshield washer tanks.
 






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