1994 Ford Explorer won't start.

[BrooklynBay]

The gas filter could be clogged. Do you hear the fuel pump prime when you turn the key?

 

[jloehrs]

Yes I hear the fuel pump prime when I turn the key. Where I get lost is that the "Beast" will run just fine once it kicks over.
Thanks

 

[MrShorty]

That sounds kind of like mine. On mine it's because the fuel pump takes a while to get the system up to pressure. Diagnose by putting a fuel pressure gauge on it so you can see if the system is up to pressure or not.

 

[funnyfarmcrafts]

oh goodness---- i towed my baby home 3 weeks ago and we have gone through all of these scenarios.... i have new plugs and wires as well as a new coil,
all fuses and relays are proper. we have power into the coil but not out, my inertia switch has no power either, i dont want to keep throwing parts at her. she died while driving no warnings at all. off the flatbed she came home and we saw her EVAP cans hanging by a thread, i got new rusty rack to replace my totally worn to shreds rack and hooked her back up. we keep going back to relays and fuses as i still get no spark like you all are discussing here....no fuel either...when i turn key there is no 2 sec hum and like i said no power at inertia. gotta be electrical....we did the crank shaft sensor already and my engine in distributorless so there really isnt any cam shaft sensor to play with that i know of. the ignition sensor is part of the PCM so we knocked that off the list. what are we missing. she wants to fire up, full crank till i drain her tryin.... she charges back up no trouble so i believe the batt/alt are just fine... what is stopping fuel and spark at same time when i have comp? sorry so long, but its been 3 weeks at it. tnx

 

[marragtop]

If you have no power at the intertia switch then the problem is in front of that. THis rules out the fuel pump, crank sensor, and coil. In front of the inertia switch are the ignition switch, PCM, PCM relay, and fuel pump relay and associated fuses. I'd concentrate on the PCM and fuel pump relays. Does the CEL come on when you turn the key to the ON position?

 

[bstaf]

I have been having some what of a similar problem. When I bought my explorer about 5 months ago it ran fine for a month, then I couldn't get it started. Had it towed to a shop and they found that the sensor for the EGR valve was messed up. They replaced that and it was fine until now. A couple weeks ago I ran it out of gas on accident (gauge isn't dead on). Filled it back up and it ran ok for a week. I was leaving my house when it stalled out then i couldn't get it started. Had it towed again and they found nothing wrong with. It ran ok on my way to work then on the way home it stalled out again. Couldn't get it started for a minute then it finally cranked up and ran ok then it wanted to die out again and I floored the gas and it picked back up. It did this for another day or two then died when I left work two nights ago and I can't get it started at all anymore. Not sure what's wrong :-\

Sorry for the long winded post but I was trying to give as much info as possible.

Thanks,
Bryan

UPDATE: I went over to where I had it parked tonight and checked out the fuel pump relay. It was plugged in and fine. Got in the car and put the key to the on position, all I heard was a click. Next I look at the Inertia switch. Looks like it's unplugged. So I click it back in to place and put the key back to on. I here the pump engage and it starts right up.

Thanks for all the help!

 

[funnyfarmcrafts]

Cel

If you have no power at the intertia switch then the problem is in front of that. THis rules out the fuel pump, crank sensor, and coil. In front of the inertia switch are the ignition switch, PCM, PCM relay, and fuel pump relay and associated fuses. I'd concentrate on the PCM and fuel pump relays. Does the CEL come on when you turn the key to the ON position?

Thank you for the good lead....the CEL is on...it cranks also

 

[funnyfarmcrafts]

A little background

If you have no power at the intertia switch then the problem is in front of that. THis rules out the fuel pump, crank sensor, and coil. In front of the inertia switch are the ignition switch, PCM, PCM relay, and fuel pump relay and associated fuses. I'd concentrate on the PCM and fuel pump relays. Does the CEL come on when you turn the key to the ON position?

The milage is just over 150K and until i needed to pull the spare a month back, i thought the body was in good condition. the rust is all in that general area of the rear though. under the hood is not so bad considering it has its years on her. wet was the first thing we saw, wet from coolant spraying out of a small leak in the hose which we have corrected and I am still trying to dry the plugs at injectors. Otherwise it has pretty well been replaced at this point. the coil was soaked and the plugs just looked horrid so we did fresh wires with it all. the injector plugs and their immediate wires are the ugliest component left under the hood at this point. we have tested the fuel pump relay and the pcm relay/both ok.... here's a question... will the power distribution box put out voltage on the meter as well (if we probe inside the relay pocket)? or is it just the relays we test? reason for asking is that we did check also the fuseable link to fuel pump and anti-theft (Rod thinks somehow something to do with the anti-theft has triggered the shut down) and he said there is no voltage inside the pow box. ???

Thanks for all your help, Jen

 

[funnyfarmcrafts]

we changed the knob setting of the volt reader...... now the power box is showing #'s... good thing i should say, but i am back to no idea where to look next----the inertia is also showing power on this setting. I tried a speaker wire to jump from the box to test the relays again....now that we are using a different setting on the reader... and zero's, but not one -all---- what am i doing wrong, it can't be all the relays are bad, what do i need to test these suckers???? speaker wire obviously doesn't cut it... and i have to imagine the setting on the reader should be the same for all of these tests. sorry i am a retard, its nice to help the special people too though.
and still in the power box there is no read on the fusable link to fuel pump-anti theft. any ideas? thank you

 

[marragtop]

If you are getting power to the inertia switch, are you getting power out of the inertia switch? Try bypassing the inertia switch with a jumper and see if the fuel pump runs. You can also go directly from the battery to the wire running to the fuel pump to see if it runs. This will essentially bypass all the relays, PCM ... etc.

 

[funnyfarmcrafts]

we are getting near 12 reading on 2 lines of the inertia one 0
i think that means in and out with ground, yes?

 

[funnyfarmcrafts]

so to let you all know the source of my truck dying... it was fuse 13 under the hood, big 30 just above the fuel relay. it links to the PCM relay and toasted when the vapor cans dropped. we replaced the bad wire when we hooked the cans back up and finally replaced the bad fuse to get running again. now it seems my alternator is shot....guess from jumpin it and screwin with her so much to try to get her goin. anyhow, happy ending, thought I'd share.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Thanks for the update!