1995 Aerostar. Ignition lock cylinder issue.

[Notta]

I have a '95 3.0 with a troubled history, too long a story for here, x-cept that it was broken into, & ignition lock was pretty destroyed in an attempt to make off with it. I managed to piece together the bits, with a few homemade pins & a little JB weld. It worked for about 2 years, pretty much normally, when an incident occurred where while driving, all dash lights went on, check engine, everything- my thought was it stalled out as I was coasting up to a red light, so I used the key to restart but 'grind!' it had not stalled out! So I kept on, as my destination was close, but then, the key would not go from 'run' to 'off'! WTF! It would go from 'run' to 'start', though after a couple weeks, froze up in 'run' position- could not stop it, could not start it, but it would run, as well as it ever did, which was well, well!
After a couple of weeks of choking it down via air input,(remove plastic tube from throttle body, put hand over opening, remove battery neg cable,) starting by reconnecting everything & shorting adjacent posts on item on fender wall, (starter relay?) where battery pos cable goes.
After many tries, many curses, got lock cyl out & got new one from O'Reilly. have not been able to get it to go into opening completely after days of trying. new cylinder turns freely when in my hand, but won't budge in the column, (won't go in completely, or, what it engages inside won't budge).
Stumped! Any thoughts on this? Also, ABS & Brake lights on always, since incident.

 

[Jose A.]

there is an access hole located under the ignition switch where you can insert a thin rod tool, or thin screwdriver, you push it upwards to press a securing button and then the entire switch assembly will be released and can be removed.

the hole will be located around 6:00 o'clock at the housing. You don't have to remove the plastic cover, the hole is also accessed through the plastic cover.

if the problem is the opposite, i.e., the new switch will not go in, chances are you have the wrong switch.

you can find these switches at eBay.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! Check the alignment of the cylinder. It's possible that it's not in correctly. Remove the cylinder, then reinstall it. Check the movement of the cylinder while it's out.

 

[Notta]

Thanks guys for your quick reply's. So, I've gotten the cylinder out, & the new one in. The problem seems to be that slider that the end of the cylinder engages, is prevented from moving by something unseen. I can see it thru 3 apertures in the white metal casting, & it will wiggle when I attempt to turn the key. Is there an interlock of some kind that I'm unaware of, that stops it from moving? I know that the new cylinder is seated fully as the lock pin is visibly centered in the hole at 6:00. And outside of the column it rotates totally freely.
I wonder if anyone has an exploded drawing or picture of the area that the slider switch occupies & its surroundings?

 

[BrooklynBay]

The lower part of the steering column has a safety brake interlock mechanism to prevent you from shifting from park into any other gear unless you have your foot on the brake pedal.

 

[Notta]

I have had my foot on the brake the whole time- they feel a little low -need to be bled, could that affect the switch?

 

[Jose A.]

here's from my 1997 Service Manual:

Ignition Switch, Blade Type

The ignition switch (11572) has blade-type terminals that engage with one multiple connector. The multiple connector is secured to the ignition switch by an attaching bolt integral with the wiring connector.

The lock cylinder positions are ACC, LOCK, OFF, RUN and START. With column shift automatic transmissions, the lock cylinder key can be removed from the lock cylinder only when the shift lever is in PARK position and the key is in LOCK position. The ACC position operates while the steering and transmission systems remain locked. Turning the key to OFF position shuts off the engine without locking the steering or transmission systems.

Removal and Installation:
Ignition Switch


Ranger/Aerostar

1. Disconnect battery negative cable.

2. Remove attaching screws (2) and instrument panel steering column cover.

3. Remove attaching screws (4) and instrument panel reinforcement plate.

4. If equipped with an automatic transmission, remove PRND12 indicator cable attaching screw.

5. Remove steering column to brake pedal support bracket attaching screws (2).

6. Lower column until steering wheel rests on driver's seat.

7. Remove ignition switch attaching screws.

8. Disconnect wiring and remove ignition switch.

To install ignition switch, reverse removal procedure.

 

[Notta]

Jose, thanks so much for posting that bit of your service manual! It seems to be that slider switch that won't budge for some reason. Maybe something has fallen down in there to jam it, because it's not frozen up, as you can wiggle it w/the key, just locked up/interlocked up. Your post will certainly help me get in there to see. Thanks again, & I'll post what happens....

 

[Notta]

I neglected to mention how great this forum is & the value I've gotten from it is so needed.
Looking forward to becoming an Elite Exp. in very near future!

Bob G. aka 'notta'

 

[Jose A.]

you welcome Bob. if you think there is something in there, I would use a powerful Shop Vac and see if it pulls anything. (best to start with a clean canister so of anything is sucked out you can find it).

if you compared the old switch to the new, and they are the same in every way, then it should go back in.

 

[Notta]

Hi Jose,
the lock cylinder comes in & out easily enuff, & I know it's in far enuff 'cause the release pin is visibly in the rite spot. the end of the cyl. is a cam that engages a rod that should slide back & forth, parallel to the column axis. this rod is what will not move. it will move enough to see that its movement is being restricted by something other than itself.