Solved - 1995 XLT 4.0 SOHC Won't Crank | Ford Explorer Forums

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Solved 1995 XLT 4.0 SOHC Won't Crank

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Mx54Life

Member
Joined
January 21, 2025
Messages
12
Reaction score
5
City, State
Mooresville, NC
Year, Model & Trim Level
1995 Explorer|XLT|4.0
My 1995 XLT 4.0 Explorer refuses to turn over or crank at all. I replaced the battery since it was only pushing about 3.9V under load however the brand new battery did not make a difference. The key turns the truck over usually however it is a very loose feel. The starter looks OEM to me however I've been told it was replaced and yet I still don't believe it. Sometimes I can hear the fuel pump engage and hum however no attempt from the truck at all to turn over. When trying to start the truck a single "Click" sound can be heard then nothing happens. A few days before this the truck was very low on oil and when it was shutdown it sounded like it was knocking, I had to wait till it warmed up to shut it off. Now it seems however that it's dead in the water. I was wondering if anyone had any advice on how to fix this problem.

Truck Details:

ODO shows: 192k miles however the gears in the cluster are gummed up and it's closer to 300k-400k.
Drivetrain: Original Engine | Reman auto transmission since the first one slipped
4WD still works fine however it does clunk very loudly going into 4L (I'm guessing it's just the lockers?)

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Also a small note when trying to turn over the battery voltage meter in the truck is barely over the L. I'm honestly not positive it's the starter but I don't see how it could be the alternator.
 






First thing to check after reading your post, is, will the engine rotate by hand ? A large socket on the crank pulley bolt with a cheater bar and turn.

Need to check if engine is siezed
 






There a solenoid on the driver engine compartment fender.
1. Remove the small wire. It pushes on a stud. Just pull it off the stud. Use a test light or volt meter. One end connect to a ground and the other end insert it in the small wire tree rem in so end. Does it. Light. Or have voltage, when you turn the key too on?
2. Next take big screwdriver and jump the top Seth too the bottom stud on the solenoid. Does the starter crank the engine?
 






There a solenoid on the driver engine compartment fender.
1. Remove the small wire. It pushes on a stud. Just pull it off the stud. Use a test light or volt meter. One end connect to a ground and the other end insert it in the small wire tree rem in so end. Does it. Light. Or have voltage, when you turn the key too on?
2. Next take big screwdriver and jump the top Seth too the bottom stud on the solenoid. Does the starter crank the engine?
I'll get back to you on that when I can. I appreciate your advice. I was thinking next thing to tackle was wiring and or solenoid.
 






You don't have an SOHC, its an OHV.
Low on oil never sounds good, these engines are tough as nails but that may be it for it.
are there any leaks?

Like others said if it can't spin freely with a breaker bar, time to find a motor in the J/Y.

Also check all cables and grounds. Voltage drop the cables if necessary.
 






First thing to check after reading your post, is, will the engine rotate by hand ? A large socket on the crank pulley bolt with a cheater bar and turn.

Need to check if engine is siezed
The truck was running a couple days ago so I doubt it but I can test it. No attempt to turn was heard so it could be seized.
You don't have an SOHC, its an OHV.
Low on oil never sounds good, these engines are tough as nails but that may be it for it.
are there any leaks?

Like others said if it can't spin freely with a breaker bar, time to find a motor in the J/Y.

Also check all cables and grounds. Voltage drop the cables if necessary.
I appreciate you. My memory is super spotty after I had a really bad car accident so I apologize lol. Still recovering sadly. Gonna be trying to turn her over here in a few minutes if the weather allows.
 






Turn engine clockwise. If it moves at all, that's good. You might feel resistance if you try a full rotation due to compression but should be able to turn past that
 






There a solenoid on the driver engine compartment fender.
1. Remove the small wire. It pushes on a stud. Just pull it off the stud. Use a test light or volt meter. One end connect to a ground and the other end insert it in the small wire tree rem in so end. Does it. Light. Or have voltage, when you turn the key too on?
2. Next take big screwdriver and jump the top Seth too the bottom stud on the solenoid. Does the starter crank the engine?
So I did just try part 2 and the solenoid sparked. Getting a new meter tomorrow to test wiring to see if the solenoid is actually sending said power. I believe at this point that the starter is not the problem and even tho I have yet to turn over the engine I feel like that is not the problem. I will try to use my breaker bar and see tomorrow but I'm pretty sure old girl is still purrin those pushrods love the abuse in my opinion lol. (Still had about 2-3 quarts when I changed it however I did not change the filter as my pain levels went wild). Any wiring diagrams that I should be looking at? Any more pointers from you amazing people would be much appreciated as this is now my only vehicle.

PS: I'm nothing more than a car guy with some mech knowledge no actual mechanic :( | Hopefully picking up a nice chevy s10 soon ;)
 






So I did just try part 2 and the solenoid sparked. Getting a new meter tomorrow to test wiring to see if the solenoid is actually sending said power. I believe at this point that the starter is not the problem and even tho I have yet to turn over the engine I feel like that is not the problem. I will try to use my breaker bar and see tomorrow but I'm pretty sure old girl is still purrin those pushrods love the abuse in my opinion lol. (Still had about 2-3 quarts when I changed it however I did not change the filter as my pain levels went wild). Any wiring diagrams that I should be looking at? Any more pointers from you amazing people would be much appreciated as this is now my only vehicle.

PS: I'm nothing more than a car guy with some mech knowledge no actual mechanic :( | Hopefully picking up a nice chevy s10 soon ;)
Whenever testing with the meter and key position to on it looks like the solenoid is not having voltage that I can read at least through its positive wire.
 






Whenever testing with the meter and key position to on it looks like the solenoid is not having voltage that I can read at least through its positive wire.
? Where did you connect the black lead of the meter too? It could be a bad ground. Connect the black lead too the negative post on the battery.

I am assuming you have 4.0L OHV engine and the solenoid is on the driver side fender.
if You don't have voltage on the trigger wire, is the cause ignition switch or the RAP system?
Take a long lead. Connect one end to the battery positive post, and the other tap the other end too higher wire post ( terminal) on the siolenoid. Does the starter crank?
 






95 is ohv 4.0
Sohc not available till 97

The key and tumbler activate the ignition switch
The ignition switch is mounted on your steering column in the dash
The ignition switch sends power to the truck and to the starter Solenoid on the drivers inner fender to the small red with blue wire

The large posts on the solenoid one is from battery + terminal
Other is out to starter

By putting a screwdriver across these posts you can see if starter turns. Makes sure you are in park or neutral first

The crank bolt on a ohv is 19mm deep socket, rotate clockwise, we use a long bar and see if the engine rotates (if the starter fails,’or you can try this first)

A loose key and tumbler… you can go to any parts store and buy a new one and install in 5 minutes with YouTube video
That could easily be the issue

I also suspect battery terminals and cables

There is no pats security system in a 1995
Not sure what the rap system referenced above is?

95-97 trucks have issues with little plastic gear in the odometer gets stripped out and the odo quits turning. They also use a gear driven speed sensor in the tailhousing near the rear driveshaft. The plastic drive and driven gears wear out with miles and time. A problem here will result in no speedometer odometer, strange shifting and a check engine light

Let us know what you find
 






She's running! Starter and solenoid replaced :)

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Congrats on getting it running! I couldn't help but notice the jbl speaker on the dashboard, I hope youre not running your phones music through that. If you are check out my post here, I think you may be interested. aux input with factory radio?
I just use it when the uniden is hooked up.
 






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