1996 4R55E seized and wont move forwards or backwards, even when in N.

[Chronic2001]

Gonna lay it all out there in hopes someone could point me to what i should check to make sure the 4R55E is the problem child or if another part of the drive train could be causing this issue.
Bought from a fam member and within the first 40 miles, the slip yoke snapped the U joint. No big deal really, grabbed the proper slip yoke and new u Joint, installed that, put fluid in transfer case that had spilled out during the work, and off she went. Was hard to get into gear, but that is how the truck came.
Not even 200 miles later, i notice going up a hill near my house that the truck was having a very hard time on this slight hill. Got near home and didn't have the same issue driving up the hill into the sub division, but when i started to drive up the steep driveway, i get 5 ft up the driveway and the truck stops. Cant move forward or backwards. Had to get a tow truck and get the back tires lifted and truck moved to top of driveway.

I can still put the truck into gear, but whenever i give it gas, nothing happens except rpms go up, then when i stop giving it gas, rpms fall much faster than normal.

So plan is to grab a junkyard trans and throw it on there, but wanted to see if that is the only thing i need to check.

1996 XLT 2WD, in case ya didnt see it in the side bar of my username.

 

[Chronic2001]

4r55e wont move

Looks like transfer case may be the issue from what i read in this thread. So, that really is cheaper and easier to grab off a junkyard ride, so unless anyone has any other suggestions, i would assume starting with the transfer case would be the better route to go.
A used trans is all of $105 from the yard, hopefully the transfer case will be half that and i can start with that.

Was thinking about swapping in a 5spd and converting to 4WD, but tbh, i really just want this fn truck out of my life and off my driveway for close to what i paid for it, which wasn't much at all, just dont want to sell it for 5-600 as is just to get it out of my hair... Would much rather fix it, and then sell it as running for what i paid or a tad more, and roll that into something else that has 4WD already.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

4r55e wont move

Looks like transfer case may be the issue from what i read in this thread. So, that really is cheaper and easier to grab off a junkyard ride, so unless anyone has any other suggestions, i would assume starting with the transfer case would be the better route to go.
A used trans is all of $105 from the yard, hopefully the transfer case will be half that and i can start with that.

Was thinking about swapping in a 5spd and converting to 4WD, but tbh, i really just want this fn truck out of my life and off my driveway for close to what i paid for it, which wasn't much at all, just dont want to sell it for 5-600 as is just to get it out of my hair... Would much rather fix it, and then sell it as running for what i paid or a tad more, and roll that into something else that has 4WD already.

you dont have a tcase, being a 2wd. unless they still did dummy cases like the bii which afaik is not int he x too

 

[Josh P]

Can you post some pictures of the transmission and slip yoke?

 

[Chronic2001]

Can you post some pictures of the transmission and slip yoke?

That is what i had already taken. I will get some better pics either in a min or tomorrow.

you dont have a tcase, being a 2wd. unless they still did dummy cases like the bii which afaik is not int he x too

Pretty sure i do. That is what the slip yoke goes into i would assume. Might be called something other than a Transfer Case but think thats what it is and what the haynes calls it.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

That is what i had already taken. I will get some better pics either in a min or tomorrow.


Pretty sure i do. That is what the slip yoke goes into i would assume. Might be called something other than a Transfer Case but think thats what it is and what the haynes calls it.

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interesting its called a tcase. think its the tail shaft housing, if im seeing/thinking about the right part

 

[Josh P]

On a 2wd that is the tail housing or extension housing. Does the car roll with the driveshaft removed?

 

[Chronic2001]

On a 2wd that is the tail housing or extension housing. Does the car roll with the driveshaft removed?

I will test that out this weekend and let you know. Trying to finish my mk4 GTi and that will be done tonight.

 

[~X~]

Have you checked the trans fluid?

I've had trucks with automatics stop moving from a clogged filter. It's worth checking, the contents of the pan will tell you alot.

 

[Josh P]

I think the problem is with the rear axle.

 

[C420sailor]

Agree with above. I’d put money on it being the axle.

 

[Chronic2001]

I think the problem is with the rear axle.

Agree with above. I’d put money on it being the axle.

I had been trying to get the cooling issue on my 04 GTi fixed so i could start to daily that and have put the exploder on the back burner. I had yet to try to move the ford with the drive shaft disconnected just yet but will def do that as that should confirm if the rear axle is the issue opposed to the trans or tcase that i had originally suspected. I do think with how it acted before seizing up could def point to the axle as the issue. I hadnt checked to see if when i rev the engine when its 'in gear', if the shaft turns at all. i would think its not turning, though could see where it is turning and if thats the case the rear axle is obv the place to start.

Have you checked the trans fluid?

I've had trucks with automatics stop moving from a clogged filter. It's worth checking, the contents of the pan will tell you alot.

I had added and checked at the tcase when i replaced the slip yoke. Though if i get the shaft removed, poor exploder gonna get castrated just for a test, look at us cruel cruel humans, and i can move the truck then i will def start with a fluid flush for the trans.

Thanks all for the suggestions and bread crumbs to troubleshoot this issue.

 

[Chronic2001]

I jacked up the back end and put stands on it. Put in in N and was able to roll the back tires just fine. Put it in R when rolling wheels clockwise, the driveshaft turned. When rolling them the opposite way, drive shaft stayed still.

So i would say it is the t case that needs to be looked at or replaced. I could have not put enough fluid back in there after doing the yoke.

On a 2wd that is the tail housing or extension housing. Does the car roll with the driveshaft removed?

With the above info, yes it would. front wheels roll as thats how it got towed up the driveway that it stalled out on and wouldnt move.

So trans seems to work, rear axel/driveshaft seems to work, but the mechanism that lives between those would be the most likely failure, the tcase. Am I Right or Left??

 

[Josh P]

If you have an open differential, wheels will free spin without the driveshaft turning. You should be able to spin the driveshaft both directions by hand with the transmission in neutral. What I recommend is to pull the cover off the rear axle. Inspect it, if it looks good then drop the pan on the transmission, replace the filter and fluid.

 

[C420sailor]

I’m confused.

In your pics, it looks like the front yoke on the rear driveshaft sheared.

So you should be able to just Jack the rear, grab the now hanging driveshaft tube, and turn it to see if the rear is seized or binding.

 

[Turdle]

Your transmission sure works good to rip a driveshaft up against a locked rear diff

Junk yard run for axle and driveshaft. This driveshaft has been thumped, I do not trust it is true. I'd get new I joints for the shaft, seals , bearings, fluid, and U bolts for axle, and depending on brakes , well, count on new brakes for rear axle also, calipers can be left attached to truck if creative.

Do you have tools for all this? It's needed.

 

[Chronic2001]

I’m confused.

In your pics, it looks like the front yoke on the rear driveshaft sheared.

So you should be able to just Jack the rear, grab the now hanging driveshaft tube, and turn it to see if the rear is seized or binding.

Sorry, that pic is from before i replaced the yoke and u joint (that is a T) or i may be calling that the wrong name, added fluid to tcase. Replaced that as it broke on me within 30 miles. After replaced, drove fine for 300 miles then seized up going up my steep driveway while in Drive. Put in neutral and it still wouldn't move. Had to get a tow to lift up the back wheels and get it up the driveway on the front wheels.

That being said, front wheels good, move back and forwards, its 2wd, obv.

I jacked up the back, pics included here of that process, and put it in N and was able to spin back wheels freely, no drive shaft spin. When i shifted into R, when i spun the back driver side tire clockwise, the driveshaft turned. When i spun the wheel the other way, it didnt turn the driveshaft, and i thought that would be expected. I didnt put in D and then try that, should and will do after i post this, but was trying to test what someone suggested to see if i disconnected the dShaft could i push it back and forth. So opposed to doing that i did the above assuming that would provide the same info as the other test.

Also had suggestions to check back wheel rotation as is to help see if the axle was at fault or partly, and figured above test would provide that answer.

At this point, i do think the axle has a leak i need to fix, but the main issue is most likely the tcase with the info above. Yay or Nay?

If you have an open differential, wheels will free spin without the driveshaft turning. You should be able to spin the driveshaft both directions by hand with the transmission in neutral. What I recommend is to pull the cover off the rear axle. Inspect it, if it looks good then drop the pan on the transmission, replace the filter and fluid.

Your transmission sure works good to rip a driveshaft up against a locked rear diff

Junk yard run for axle and driveshaft. This driveshaft has been thumped, I do not trust it is true. I'd get new I joints for the shaft, seals , bearings, fluid, and U bolts for axle, and depending on brakes , well, count on new brakes for rear axle also, calipers can be left attached to truck if creative.

Do you have tools for all this? It's needed.

I will do that Josh, but i think the info about the shaft turning when in R with the rear drive wheel spun manually clockwise. I am thinking Tcase still, but do agree that that whole rear axle needs to be serviced/flushed and filled. Can see a leak from where it has been sitting since it was towed to that spot in the pics from the axle. Or hell, depending on the price at the yard, and that i may be able to use the current one on a later something or just to take apart and learn with, newish to heavy wrenching but have the books, YT, yall, common sense and basically just trouble shoot computer/network/layered issues daily, would still benefit from tearing that rear axle apart and servicing it as well if a used replacement in case i F up is a couple hundo tops i can do that.

Grabbed a new yoke and joint and replaced those 300 miles before the lock up. i should have posted the pics in a better order. These pics are showing the truck in R, then the drive shaft in different positions due to me spinning the wheels the proper way.

 

[Chronic2001]

Your transmission sure works good to rip a driveshaft up against a locked rear diff

Junk yard run for axle and driveshaft. This driveshaft has been thumped, I do not trust it is true. I'd get new I joints for the shaft, seals , bearings, fluid, and U bolts for axle, and depending on brakes , well, count on new brakes for rear axle also, calipers can be left attached to truck if creative.

Do you have tools for all this? It's needed.

I should have the tools needed. Still think tcase is the main issue, but the pics above show a leak that needs to be dealt with at least on the axle. For that, i would assume a seal on that and flush fluids on the plate in the middle of the axle. (i will look up the process in the book, not asking for explanation, just FYI. Feel free to do so if wanted, but just wanted to notate that. was just thinking out loud or out on a keyboard.)

As to the shaft being true, after replacing, ill take pics and post tmrw, it drove just fine or at least the same that it did before the original yoke and joint had to go and get a divorce, or just snapped off. Pics not labeled prolly thru you off on what is old and what is current. Thats my bad mane.

 

[Josh P]

The problem could be in the transmission, nothing has been ruled out yet and since the rear axle needs to be serviced to fix the leak, that is the place to start. Post pictures of the gears once you open it up.

 

[Chronic2001]

The problem could be in the transmission, nothing has been ruled out yet and since the rear axle needs to be serviced to fix the leak, that is the place to start. Post pictures of the gears once you open it up.

I'll do the trans pan and axle service and get pics of that and post em. More than likely do that this weekend. I can at least get them both opened for pics and drained then buttoned back up partially while i gather the rest of the supplies tmrw or Saturday.

Thanks as always for the help and suggestions!