1996 Ex Sport OHV head gaskets replacement

[masospaghetti]

PB Blaster is just what I normally use since its readily available here, but there are lots of alternatives. The key is getting something other than WD40 -- pretty much any purpose-made penetrating oil is going to be much better than WD40 at loosening stuck bolts. CRC, Seafoam, Liquid Wrench to name a few. WD40 also makes an actual penetrating oil - that's good too.

 

[rasouth]

When I replaced my head I didn't remove the exhaust manifold from the head. I disconnected the manifold from the exhaust pipe. It gave me a little more leverage in lifting the head out and then I was able to mess around with the manifold bolts on the table. I found it was a little easier to get at the bolts. I laid the head on its side with manifold upwards and let the penetrating oil soak for a while, put the socket on and tapped the end of the handle with a hammer to loosen up the bolts. May not be that easy for everyone though.

 

[Blue m&m]

It’s probably a long shot, but can you get Kroil there (Penetrating-Lubricating Oils)? It’s way more powerful than PB Blaster.

 

[pepehuertars]

Have you guys tested the 50/50 ATF - Acetone mix?

 

[Turdle]

Have you guys tested the 50/50 ATF - Acetone mix?

Works great!

Brake fluid will work to some extent also in a pinch, but keep it away from anything else.

Acetone ATF ( or MMO) mix works real well though. Best I have tried

 

[239]

Im about to start a DIY project: Changing head gaskets in my 90k miles OHV 96 explorer.

Some of the symptoms are:

- Losing coolant
- Some water vapor out of the tail pipe
- Coolant smell when starting the cold engine
- Rough idle when starting for the first time in the day
- Rougher idle when starting after 1+ days of parking.
- Strange new noises when starting cold, like rattle from the lower-back part of the engine bay

Tests already done:

- Putting pressure in the radiator brings more vapor out of the exhaust pipe.

Tests to be done:

- Cylinder compression test: This week

Parts:

- New felpro gasket set (heads, throttle body, etc)
- 16 new Felpro head bolts
- New coil pack wires and spark plugs.
- New coolant to replace after draining the old one.

Tools:

- Big arrange of ratchets, sockets and wrenches.
- Oiler
- Plastic scraper.
- Brake clean

The car had a previous owner who might overheated after a radiator leak, but I'm not 100% sure. If that's the case, heads may be warped and in need of resurface, if its not, could be a cylinder crack but I guess I will not know until the heads are out of the motor.

If you have tips, recommendations or opinions on this, they are very welcome since this will be my biggest mechanic work, I'm not sure if I will deliver, but the chance is better than giving this job to a shop.

One initial question: it is necessary to remove both heads on this v6 if the leak affects the other?

Thank you very much

My 2000 overheated pretty bad a few years back and I made the mistake of driving it to the parking lot. My heads warped but never cracked. The gaskets warped too but didnt crack either. If you’re going to take it apart I suggest replacing the heads and pushrods. Here’s what mine looked like after they were pulled. Yes, they overheated really bad.

Next up is a reman engine. If all goes according to plan, within the next two years after I finish school next spring.

 

[pepehuertars]

Works great!

Brake fluid will work to some extent also in a pinch, but keep it away from anything else.

Acetone ATF ( or MMO) mix works real well though. Best I have tried

The acetone could be the one you can find in drugstores? or pure acetone? Here, pure acetone has a regulated sale for all the drug related things ppl do with it

 

[fast_dave]

Talking bolts... I didn't had that into account. I'll search for them around, anticipating that it will be difficult to find

Just saying - take a few minutes to look at that GOOGLE search I linked to regarding the exhaust manifold stud/nut problems other guys have run into, and how they solved it. This is a well-documented problem...

With that said, I read in some of those links that some guys have chosen to substitute the problematic factory stud & nut (2 pieces) with a high-grade stainless hex bolt (1 piece).

Also, if memory serves me correctly, a number of those threads list the hole size and thread count that is bored into the head.

With regards to "PB BLASTER" - this is what is categorized as a "penetrating oil". I do not know what the wording for this class of product is in Chile. Any professional auto parts shop or hardware store should have a product that is similar to it. It is a basic product for auto repair, on the shelf of any auto repair garage/ home mechanic.

In closing, and gain "Just Saying" - based on what you have written, it's my opinion that if your Explorer is running, and if it's your primary/only vehicle, and all you're having to do is add a cup of coolant every few weeks, you might want to do consider doing some more research, before jumping into this repair... But that's just my opinion - your mileage may vary ;-)

Hope that helps, good luck and keep up posted -

 

[masospaghetti]

^ As fast_dave said, penetrating oil is a really common product at auto parts stores and hardware stores. Just be wary of using regular WD40 as this is not a penetrating oil and it's not going to a good job of loosening up rusted hardware.

 

[239]

My exhaust manifolds came off after soaking them with seafoam deep creep overnight. The original hardware was re-used too. That stuff is great for loosening rusted parts.

 

[pepehuertars]

Just saying - take a few minutes to look at that GOOGLE search I linked to regarding the exhaust manifold stud/nut problems other guys have run into, and how they solved it. This is a well-documented problem...

With that said, I read in some of those links that some guys have chosen to substitute the problematic factory stud & nut (2 pieces) with a high-grade stainless hex bolt (1 piece).

Also, if memory serves me correctly, a number of those threads list the hole size and thread count that is bored into the head.

With regards to "PB BLASTER" - this is what is categorized as a "penetrating oil". I do not know what the wording for this class of product is in Chile. Any professional auto parts shop or hardware store should have a product that is similar to it. It is a basic product for auto repair, on the shelf of any auto repair garage/ home mechanic.

In closing, and gain "Just Saying" - based on what you have written, it's my opinion that if your Explorer is running, and if it's your primary/only vehicle, and all you're having to do is add a cup of coolant every few weeks, you might want to do consider doing some more research, before jumping into this repair... But that's just my opinion - your mileage may vary ;-)

Hope that helps, good luck and keep up posted -

Thank you very much for pointing me on the right direction with the manifold bolts. I've spent quite a few hours researching and I'm still on that tbh.

I'm also thinking on not doing anything and live with the problem. My only fear is having a sudden coolant loss and melting the engine, something that should not happen if I'm not mistaken.

The PROS of doing the job are more in the "learning/having fun" department, but the CONS are several and I don't want to perform a brain surgery for a splint in a toe.

Anyway, I still check the coolant every time the engine is started, not sure what I'll do at the end of the day, but old mechanics told me to wait and see if the thing evolves to a point that it's not safe to keep wating... guess it's a fine line.

On the PB Blaster topic, it's not as easy as it is in the US here there are not too many reliable brands, or at least commonly tested. Took me a day or two to locate the WD40 "specialist" penetrating oil, as it's one of the few available well known brands around. I guess there is also liqui molly (expensive) and even loctite.

That said, I really thank you guys for all the data and tips on this subject, quite useful!

 

[EB4X]

"9/10 you have a cracked head. This is a common problem"
IF YOU DON'T severely overheat these engines you will not crack head/or have failing head gasket.....these OHV engines, although anemic in power, are one of the most reliable, longest lasting engines ever made.....known to make it to 400,000 and beyond without any internal engine work.
My 94 Ranger which, I hate to admit, abused and was "late" on oil changes was running like a top at 246,000 when I sold it.... on one occasion the engine got slightly hot....radiator issue.....but never had/nor needed any internal engine work. The only reason I sold it was to put in it's place my current 4X4 Explorer ....
And on the anemic issue, put in a K&N or similar air filter......huge difference on my Ranger....night and day.... keep standard filter to swap back in for off roading...

 

[fast_dave]

@pepehuertars

The 4.0 OHV is a pretty tough engine.

In my opinion, as long as you keep track of the coolant level, I think you'll be OK.

That will give you plenty of time, probably years of time, to research everything and decide if the repair is worth the risk (given that you are in Santiago and thus no immediate spare parts network like we have in the US).

In the meantime, this forum has a lot of great guys with a lot or real world experience to help you along your journey with your Explorer.

Don't be afraid to ask questions -

 

[fast_dave]

And on the anemic issue, put in a K&N or similar air filter......huge difference on my Ranger....night and day.... keep standard filter to swap back in for off roading...

@Barrynewbie

A K&N air filter is oil coated and thus will wreak havoc on the MAF in an 2nd Gen Explorer.

The reason is the oil that coats the filter becomes atomized.

Over time, the atomized oil builds up on the two resistors in the air flow stream of the MAF, and eventually gets carbonized and creates a hard oil coating on the two resistors in the MAF.

This build-up of oil coating will eventually cause pinging, poor performance, and (incorrect) CEL (Check Engine Light) notifications claiming that the MAF Sensor has gone bad.

There is a self-cleaning feature to the two resistors in the MAF air stream.

Each time the engine is started the resistors heat up to burn off anything that has coated them.

BUT - this self-cleaning feature can't keep up with the amount of atomized oil that a K&N releases.

Therefore - Stock air filters are the best - i.e. FRAM

Leave the K&N for the lowered Honda Civics with the huge fart can on the rear

 

[EB4X]

Good, true points Dave....
But I got by without any MAF issues caused by my K&N for several years, yes caught up eventually (I suggest oiling them on the conservative side..and spraying air through them - air compressor/ leaf blower - to get excess oil out before install)....but it truly seemed to have a 15 HP boost.....like mentioned was night and day difference between stock and it. To have that improvement for that long before cleaning / replacing MAF was worth it....in my opinion..

 

[pepehuertars]

So... update: I'm finally going for K-Seal to find a middle ground solution. I've already read about following the procedure: a cold engine, enough space in the cooling system to fill with the additive, idling 30 minutes after that.

Any other tip on how to make the best use of this stuff? is it one bottle for a 4L 6Cylinder engine? or 2?
Thank you.

 

[rasouth]

In my opinion K-seal might work if your head gasket was cracked in a small spot. It will not work if your head is cracked between valves or somewhere that water does not circulate. I had a similar problem with my head and K-seal did not work. As I pulled the head off I found the the head was warped to such a degree that K-seal left a ridge of sealant around the cylinder but did not completely seal the problem and this was after running the car for several weeks and a few hundred miles.

 

[96eb96]

So... update: I'm finally going for K-Seal to find a middle ground solution. I've already read about following the procedure: a cold engine, enough space in the cooling system to fill with the additive, idling 30 minutes after that.

Any other tip on how to make the best use of this stuff? is it one bottle for a 4L 6Cylinder engine? or 2?
Thank you.

Takes one bottle. It is certainly worth a try. But no product in a bottle will repair major damage from overheating or a very bad crack. It depends. Where i am trucks rust out because of road salt and ice (making repairs very difficult and eventually it has to come off the road). If it wasn't so rusty I may have repaired it.
Sometimes you have to run it with the spark plug out (I did). This gives it a chance to wick into the cylinder without pressure. If not it only has the exhaust and intake stroke to seal the crack.

I installed it into the coolant sensor hole, but the radiator is probably ok too. Do not put it in the overflow bottle. So far so good, but like I said it don't pay to invest in it because of rust. They inspect cars and can see a frame issue and it can't be driven anymore.

 

[pepehuertars]

Takes one bottle. It is certainly worth a try. But no product in a bottle will repair major damage from overheating or a very bad crack. It depends. Where i am trucks rust out because of road salt and ice (making repairs very difficult and eventually it has to come off the road). If it wasn't so rusty I may have repaired it.
Sometimes you have to run it with the spark plug out (I did). This gives it a chance to wick into the cylinder without pressure. If not it only has the exhaust and intake stroke to seal the crack.

I installed it into the coolant sensor hole, but the radiator is probably ok too. Do not put it in the overflow bottle. So far so good, but like I said it don't pay to invest in it because of rust. They inspect cars and can see a frame issue and it can't be driven anymore.

Mine has almost no rust. But following advice on this thread it seems to be too much of an a open heart surgery and maybe kseal will be wiser.

 

[96eb96]

Mine has almost no rust. But following advice on this thread it seems to be too much of an a open heart surgery and maybe kseal will be wiser.

Not the easiest job but an oil change next the the SOHC motor.