1997 Mountaineer Rear Lower Shock Mount

[P1642]

I have to replace the Rear Lower Shock Mounts on my 1997 Mountaineer. I found the OEM parts online, but can't locate the correct torque for the U-bolts. Any one have a source for the torque setting?

 

[Collin Whitfield]

I hope this helps!

 

[poker4me007]

Also check and re torque after a couple hundred miles.

 

[CDW6212R]

75lbsft sounds about right for those u-bolts. Torque needed is based on the bolt size, thread pitch and steel quality. You can get very close from experience with torquing various bolts over many many years. Well done for asking, it takes a long time to be comfortable torquing bolts without looking up the specs. I've got a friend that about 20 years ago twisted off a crank bolt in a SHO crank. He was huge and strong, and didn't think it was possible to break a big bolt. Now he's older and still big, but much wiser.

Have an expert install those leaf spring perches, or someone familiar with them and the process. Regards,

 

[P1642]

Why do you suggest having an expert install the shock mounts (different than the leaf spring perches you wrote)?

Thanks to everyone for the information and advice.

 

[Turdle]

Why do you suggest having an expert install the shock mounts (different than the leaf spring perches you wrote)?

Thanks to everyone for the information and advice.

Just that. The leaf spring perch is the lower shock mount, which tells us you aren't all that familiar. Not being rude, just being safe here. Very dangerous, as you have to support the weight of the truck separately from the weight of the axle. At the least have some who has done this before help you.

 

[koda2000]

Just that. The leaf spring perch is the lower shock mount, which tells us you aren't all that familiar. Not being rude, just being safe here. Very dangerous, as you have to support the weight of the truck separately from the weight of the axle. At the least have some who has done this before help you.

I agree. Working on your vehicle is a great thing. it will save you tons of money and you'll get lots of satisfaction out of doing the job yourself. The more stuff you do, the better you'll become as your skills increase. However, if you're not experienced you'll make mistakes. Some mistakes will just end up costing you money, some can threaten your safety and the safety of others on the road. I give you credit for asking what the correct torque for the U-bolt nuts should be.

I started wrenching on vehicles when I was 13 (I'm now 70) and I consider my skills way above average for a DIY'er, but occasionally I make mistakes. You never stop learning. The last safety related mistake I made was 50 years ago (didn't tighten my lug nuts enough and had a wheel come off). That scared the heck out of me. Now I always use a torque wrench when tightening lug nuts and I have a really good feel for the appropriate torque for most nuts/bolts when not using a torque wrench (haven't broken a bolt or have had one come loose since I was a teenager). Be safe.

 

[Spudhut]

@koda2000 - Wisdom is Priceless!

 

[koda2000]

@koda2000 - Wisdom is Priceless!

Agreed, unfortunately most of us acquire it the hard way. A ham-fisted friend of mine once told me he was thinking about having "Do not over-tighten" inscribed on his gravestone. LMAO. Another thing he taught me was to never mess with your vehicle the night before a trip. I learned this lesson, but he never did.

 

[CDW6212R]

I've done that, last time was about 1995 when I decided I had to install roller rockers and the tall VC's I had finally received. It was not a good idea, the VC's were too tall at the firewall(Crown Vic), and I had to remove the roller rockers and return it to stock. That was my first mail vehicle, and I finished that about 1AM.

 

[J_C]

I feel I should add to this topic because I searched for rear lower shock mount right before doing mine, and was scratching my head about the danger. I mean sure, we should not underplay the danger in working under a vehicle, but there's nothing more dangerous about this repair than any other repair where you have to work under the vehicle.

You just need the basic prerequisites, meaning a floor jack with decent lift (14" or so is what I'd guess is the jack lift amount I needed for mine at stock height) and a jack stand. The jack stand is essential for safety.

All you have to do is jack it up till the tire is just about to leave the ground, and put a jack stand on the frame right in front of the spring mount. if you want the tire off for easier access, jack it up just enough to take it off, then lower the frame down an inch or so, so the normal resting place of the spring is where the axle is. It's not hard to figure this out, you'll probably get it right the first try.

If it's secure on the jack stand, there's nothing more to it than fighting the rust if present and taking it apart and putting it back together with the new shock mount and U-bolts. You do have to pay attention to keeping the shock mount level as you torque the U-bolts through it, back and forth a little at a time, wiggle them so that when you are done, all the ends of the u-bolts have about the same amount of threads showing below the nuts, and you do have to come back and check the torque of those bolts after driving a few dozen miles till they've settled in, but that's about it.

Point being, the only danger in this is the same-old, same-old, to be sure you have the vehicle safely suspended on a decent jack stand. If you're the paranoid or cautious type and want redundancy besides just trusting the jack stand, then leave the jack there too, throw the wheel under the vehicle, etc, but never trust the jack alone.