1998 Explorer 5.0 “Restoration2021” project | Page 30 | Ford Explorer Forums

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1998 Explorer 5.0 “Restoration2021” project

I haven't had any problems with the factory hose clamps. The worm drive type people replace them with, I have had to tighten those after installation of new hoses. The original clamps are a little stronger, I believe they also apply pressure over a larger area of the rubber hose. They can be very hard to install or remove depending on how they are oriented, and the special tool for them is very helpful.
Got to find that tool! Had a helluva time with them when I replaced my thermostat. And there was almost no clearance either. They MUST be effective, as they're so hard to move! Will probably look for factory hose clamps the next time I have to change a hose. I'm sure mine are original and they don't leak.
 



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Got to find that tool! Had a helluva time with them when I replaced my thermostat. And there was almost no clearance either. They MUST be effective, as they're so hard to move! Will probably look for factory hose clamps the next time I have to change a hose. I'm sure mine are original and they don't leak.
Well the major contributor to getting these broken bolts out was the Oxy Acetelyne torch. The first one came out with a left handed drill bit. I was widening the hole and it started to come out on it's own. The second one got pretty hard and was pretty hard to drill. So in the end I used an Irwin extractor, I had to grab it with a vise grips then tap the end of the vise grips with a hammer while twisting the vise grips with my other hand. Then it broke loose. I worked on this most of the day. So even though I had a happy ending, it wasn't just one tool that got the job done.


Edit, I just realized that joney is talking about the tool to grab the factory spring hose clamps... Sorry guys, I'm kinda tired now. Joney you can get those hose clamp tools at autozone, ebay, amazon. Typically under $40!
 






3Pcs Hose Clamp Plier Kit, Long Reach Wire Spring Hose Clamp Pliers Remover for Automotive Coolant Radiator Heater and Water Hose with Band Flat or Large Clamps https://a.co/d/dDRGeaG

For those times you have empty tool drawer space. Unfortunately, I never have that problem.
 






Well the major contributor to getting these broken bolts out was the Oxy Acetelyne torch. The first one came out with a left handed drill bit. I was widening the hole and it started to come out on it's own. The second one got pretty hard and was pretty hard to drill. So in the end I used an Irwin extractor, I had to grab it with a vise grips then tap the end of the vise grips with a hammer while twisting the vise grips with my other hand. Then it broke loose. I worked on this most of the day. So even though I had a happy ending, it wasn't just one tool that got the job done.


Edit, I just realized that joney is talking about the tool to grab the factory spring hose clamps... Sorry guys, I'm kinda tired now. Joney you can get those hose clamp tools at autozone, ebay, amazon. Typically under $40!
Broken bolts, the worst! Don't wish them on anyone! No wonder you're tired.
 






Thread sealant on the threads of the bolts that enter the water jacket

Some people use anti seize but ford calls for thread sealant
 






Thread sealant on the threads of the bolts that enter the water jacket

Some people use anti seize but ford calls for thread sealant
I think sealant on the middle 8 bolts and antiseize on the 4 corners makes sense since the 4 corners threads are exposed to the elements.
 






Got the EX back together today. No more p1309. No check engine lights. So about a week or so ago my daughter reported to me that the engine was vibrating more than typical. The engine has been nice and smooth since I got it running. I assumed that the cam synchro was really bad and it was time to replace that. So I replaced the synchro and the intake gaskets for good measure. Well she runs well enough but now there is still this vibration. It feels like a misfire except that there are no codes, no puffing from the exhaust pipe like when you have a misfire. One at a time I pulled the plug wires and each cylinder was contributing. You only feel the shaking at idle.

About two weeks ago she had the left front tire blow out. Tire is ruined. While I was looking at things I realized that the right mounting ear for the rack and pinion broke the welds. Must have happened when the tire blew. I put the rack in when I had the oil pan and oil pump out. So that will be fun the second time around.

Has anyone had balancer issues with the 5.0?
Just curious.
 






The stock balancer does on rare occasions come apart, high rpm is bad for them(6000rpm), or really old age. The rubber between the two halves is not as strong as more expensive aftermarket units. The stock ones used to be about $75, while a decent aftermarket brand was over $150. I installed a Power Bond model in one of my 98's a few years ago, I'd suggest that one if you think the old one is suspect.
 






Well now that the intake manifold gasket is replaced, the cam synchro and all the hoses have been tightened. I know the water pump is leaking. Funny that it passes a pressure test, but when I run it it dribbles down onto the balncer and makes it way down the oil pan. So much for an almost new water pump. After driving a bit the car checked in all the monitors on the scanner. no check engine lights. But the vibration is noticable and yet no misfires. So when I replace the water pump I'm going to replace the balancer. It is one of the things I left alone during my inital work. So we will see.
 






Here is the broken rack for all who are interested.
F64EDF64-EFD6-4F1B-B776-B2A9B85518C3.jpeg
 












Vibration is not normal
Usually a bad injector can be detected by the pcm quickly and a misfire code will appear

However misfires in the ignition are much harder for the pcm to detect so it may take longer for a code to appear if ever at all

Shaking or a stumble is not normal and needs to be cured
Check firing order
Check all wires for melting on exhaust or shorts
Check all connections at plugs and coil packs
Clean mass air flow sensor

Water pumps have a weep hole when it is wearing out they will start to weep from the top near the pulley


Let us know what you find
 






Vibration is not normal
Usually a bad injector can be detected by the pcm quickly and a misfire code will appear

However misfires in the ignition are much harder for the pcm to detect so it may take longer for a code to appear if ever at all

Shaking or a stumble is not normal and needs to be cured
Check firing order
Check all wires for melting on exhaust or shorts
Check all connections at plugs and coil packs
Clean mass air flow sensor

Water pumps have a weep hole when it is wearing out they will start to weep from the top near the pulley


Let us know what you find
I'm going to pull the water pump today. I'm almost certain it is leaking at this point. But only leaks when it's running. I will double check the wires and firing order. Wires were brand new motorcraft when the car went into daily service Feb 2022. I even put heat protective socks over the wire ends at the plugs. But I will check all that. I'm going to pull the balancer too and inspect it or just replace it. The car already has about 100 miles on it since I put it back together. No codes. Fun times!

When I put this EX together the Rack an pinion was new(rebuilt), plugs and wires new. Coils original. Water pump new. Balancer original. I'm sure I'll figure it out. But it all takes time. So now I have to squeeze it in.
 






Ok got the pump off. Looks to be leaking from the pump shaft and the weep hole. So that’s outta here! Took the balancer off and by all accounts the center has spun some. So I think that explains the vibrarion. Tell me what you think of the pictures. I marked TDC and some other spots in red to compare.

C312C31A-2251-4C57-A4B5-91B112029F33.jpeg D0C67C41-D322-4E9B-8FEE-8235B49108E3.jpeg 4DA439F8-C24D-44F1-8BFD-52CF631B504E.jpeg DD78089B-B1D4-420B-BE8D-52A8641A0FE4.jpeg
 






That's a good catch for the balancer, that looks quite a bit off, and moved outward. That might be a smart thing to change now for any old 302 etc.
 






I'm going to get this wrapped up this morning. I'm going to install new connectors for the coolant temp sensors while I'm in there. They're in bad shape. Have to replace teh rack and pinion again probably next weekend. No time today for that.
 






That's a good catch for the balancer, that looks quite a bit off, and moved outward. That might be a smart thing to change now for any old 302 etc.
Yeah the weighted mass roatated probably 40 degrees ATDC. If you look carefully the weight moved backwards towards the tone ring. I'm curious now. Did the waterpump leak enough onto the balancer to make the old balancer slip. or was the balaner causing vibration enough to ruin the water pump.
 






Was the WP a Motorcraft made long ago in the US, or a later version made in China etc? Those haven't been around long enough to judge if they are as good or not. I doubt it though, and I have two of them, one about two years old, and one in a box.

I'd doubt the balance hurt the WP, but who knows how violent the vibrations were, and for how long. Sourcing quality parts is harder than ever these days. 20 years ago there were far fewer brands, but most people knew which to buy. Now all brands are a crap shoot sometimes.
 






Was the WP a Motorcraft made long ago in the US, or a later version made in China etc? Those haven't been around long enough to judge if they are as good or not. I doubt it though, and I have two of them, one about two years old, and one in a box.

I'd doubt the balance hurt the WP, but who knows how violent the vibrations were, and for how long. Sourcing quality parts is harder than ever these days. 20 years ago there were far fewer brands, but most people knew which to buy. Now all brands are a crap shoot sometimes.
It was Chinese. Duralast from Autozone. New balancer is Dorman, all I could get quickly.
 



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I don't mind Duralast or Dorman for many basic things. Autozone has been in business a long time, Dorman has been trying to make every part and make money on volume. I avoid critical parts from them like electronics etc. But they make so much that they are much appreciated for lots of needed obsolete parts.
 






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