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Ford Explorer Community - Maintenance - Modifications - Performance Upgrades - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street
Explorer Forum Covers the Explorer ST, Explorer Sport, Explorer Sport Trac, Lincoln Aviator, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Ford Aerostar
The 1 hour job took 1 day! Had to remove driveshaft to drop the pan. No nasty looking gremlins in pan either. Going to re-torque the VB bolts tonight and fill tomorrow!
Good work for that messy job. ATF is good for your skin LOL. That fluid is expensive these days too, you like to do it every few years, but it can cost $100-$200 depending on your brand choice etc.
Boys! It worked! I tightened the appropriate VB bolts to 14NM they all took maybe a 1/4 turn. It shifts well now and kickdown is back with no stuttering.
I used a gulf fully synthetic ATF approved for Ford Mercon V from Opie Oils. It took 4 litres to underfill - 5 to overfill and I drained 1/2 L from the trans cooler lines in bits to get it right.
I’m going to start a new thread with the rest of the build so other people can use it as reference now.
As an addition to this thread - removing the front driveshaft is essential to getting the pan drop done. For uk guys go underneath the passenger side and soak the 4x T25 torq in WD40 overnight. Remove the bolts and pull the shaft backwards to remove and tick out of the way. THEN proceed to loosen the pan bolts and drain fluid slowly from one end.
You can drain an overfilled system via the trans cooler.
Pan drop, pan and magnet clean, VB bolts tightened to 14NM, fresh fluid and filter have solved the issues stated at start of thread.
Thanky you all the guys who helped me out throughout this SOS thread - your amazing