1999 Explorer SOHC PCV VALVE ISSUE. Need help ASAP

[rob17san]

OK so I decided to tackle my PCV valve today. Im sitting here at my work, and I pulled the old one. Its the one in the right of the picture with the T-Bar. The one I got from the store is similar but with no T-Bar. Did I get the wrong one or does taht T-bar come off? I tried pulling it. I can't damage it because I am not home and I do not have another vehicle to get home in if I break it. Let me know guys. Part number on original unit is EV-147 and the new one is a 2299 and is a aftermarket type that had a orange box. Please help asap!

 

[rob17san]

Well I got the T-bar off. THen tried to force it onto the new one and it cracked. I think I can temporarily electrical tape it so I can install it. So what next? Do the new ones come with the T-Bar? It is definetely a Original part with 87k miles on it. I am glad I decided to change it but should have researched a bit first. In the future, if you all didnt know, you can remove the T-bar by hand pulling REALLY hard. It just wouldnt flex enough to fit on the METAL aftermarket style unit.

 

[rob17san]

Grr

THis is what I ended up with temporarily. To be honest, its good enough to leave like this also permanently, but I have chose to replace it again once I get a good response on where what and how to go about doing that.
Hope this helps someone in the future.
Once it was replaced, my idle was much better, the groaning surging noise I had gone. I used to get a deep exhaust rattle when the explorer was cold, that seems to be nearly non existent now. Definetely seems to be a good idea to replace this. The PCV is ibehind the center of the Intake on the sohc, take the plastic cover plate off that says sohc and look towards the fire wall. Cant miss it. Two rubber hoses going to it.

 

[CDW6212R]

Those are about $45 to buy from Ford, it comes with the hoses attached. I passed on them, and installed that "T" onto the PCV much like yours. I noticed that it wasn't liking the force to push it on, so I filed around the nipple of the steel PCV. I filed down about half of its original protrusion, and the "T" went on okay. I also used Ultra Black RTV to be sure that it was sealed.

Rob, I suggest that you keep that "T", just take it back apart, file the PCV down, and use Ultra Black on the cracked section well. Tape it up again lightly until it cures for hours. Then tape it up a little better, it will be easier to handle after curing. Good luck,

 

[btexpress]

The best method I have found for swapping fittings like the one you are fighting is to soak it in hot water, or nuke it in the microwave for 10-15 seconds (after cleaning it) to warm it up. Also have seen problems created by the metal aftermarket PCV valves.

 

[rob17san]

The T bar Broke apart. Just enough left on it to work the way I have it. So, that was my only option. However I agree with CDW that it would have been better to grind down the external nipple area a bit then slide and glue it in. Didn't have the time or resources to do it earlier. Thanks anyways.
Feel free to delete this post if necessary. I have pretty much fixed the issue for now.

BTEXPRESS WHAT PROBLEMS COME FROM THE METAL TYPE?

 

[rob17san]

The best method I have found for swapping fittings like the one you are fighting is to soak it in hot water, or nuke it in the microwave for 10-15 seconds (after cleaning it) to warm it up. Also have seen problems created by the metal aftermarket PCV valves.

Looks like we live in the Same City? I am off 92nd and Wadsworth.

 

[btexpress]

Looks like we live in the Same City? I am off 92nd and Wadsworth.

128th and Huron.......northern part of Westminster, unless or until my wife decides commuting to Englewood sucks!

The problems with metal PCVs are nothing severe, mostly clattering and many do not have the same flow specs as the Ford valves. On Escorts metal PCVs will set codes and cause idle problems.

Sometimes my personal preferences interfer with my professional status, cuz I like to do things the right way the first time with the right parts. 20 years working in a dealership environment definitely convinced me of the value of OEM parts, but now I work at an independent garage and have to deal with all sorts of stuff, even used parts. We used factory parts when possible and economically feasible, tho.

 

[CDW6212R]

... We used factory parts when possible and economically feasible, tho.

Ditto, but Ford loses my business every time that they charge some high price on a multiple component item. The PCV should be available for pennies, compared to $45. They sell rag joints for almost $200, I paid about $15 for just the joint at a Motor Products. You have to ask about pricing before choosing a parts source.

 

[BigTrannyProblem]

Ditto, but Ford loses my business every time that they charge some high price on a multiple component item. The PCV should be available for pennies, compared to $45. They sell rag joints for almost $200, I paid about $15 for just the joint at a Motor Products. You have to ask about pricing before choosing a parts source.

I don't think anyone can justify a $45 PCV. That is simply outrageous.

-bigtrannyproblem

 

[gijoecam]

It's not just a PCV valve... The dealer unit includes the tee (which is another $5 part), three hoses that are already connected, formed, and sealed the way they should be for a few bucks a piece, and the two clips that connect it to the manifold. In the time it takes to swap out JUST the PCV (while risking the damage to the tee), one can purchase the entire assembly and install it in just minutes. It is designed (in theory) to save time, money, and labor.

-Joe

 

[BigTrannyProblem]

OK, well then I don't think anyone can justify a $45 PCV convenience assembly then. Seems to me like a deal was made with the aftermarket manufacturers on items like this. What would keep them from manufacturing it with the "t" in the first place? Aftermarket designs often improve upon original factory design. Why is this not the case in this scenario?

-bigtrannyproblem

 

[gijoecam]

OK, well then I don't think anyone can justify a $45 PCV convenience assembly then. Seems to me like a deal was made with the aftermarket manufacturers on items like this. What would keep them from manufacturing it with the "t" in the first place? Aftermarket designs often improve upon original factory design. Why is this not the case in this scenario?

-bigtrannyproblem

That's how they get it from their supplier in the first place. It's likely how it went on the vehicle on the assembly line, so it's how they sell it at the dealerships after the fact. Certain things that are prone to breakage (like the thermostat outlet, or the blower motor resistor connector) will generally be made available as individual parts, as will wearable parts (belts, hoses, plugs, wires, brakes, bearings, etc).

Also keep in mind, Ford has to stock-pile an estimated 10 years worth of parts for every vehicle they make. Stockpiling items that are carried over for current models (like the thermostat for instance) is easy enough to do since the supply is not finite. But stockpiling vehicle-specific items is a monumental pain in the butt, and there's a lot more involved than just turning it over to the aftermarket.

 

[CDW6212R]

Doing a lot of car work involves figuring out what the OEM decides to not support at all, or not long enough, or at too high of a cost. The PCV valve is one of those components. Ford should not bother to make parts if they are not feasible to buy.

I replaced my PCV valve long ago, at a cost of about $3, and the labor of dealing with the "T" and PCV metal lip. It was worth it to save $40 or so, my 10 minutes of extra time. Regards,

 

[dexboy15]

That Valve Looks The Same As The One I Took Off And I Replace It With Another Pcv Valve And Truck Is Now Not Starting...so I Decided To Go To The Dealership To Buy The Whole Thing Since I Broke The Tee On Top Off It...but Apparently The Dealer Pcv Valve Does Not Have A Tee Either...

 

[Kimosabey01]

PVC Valve location

Hello Everyone !!
This is a great site
I am looking for the location of the PVC valve on my Explorer 1999 4.0

 

[waskly]

Hello Everyone !!
This is a great site
I am looking for the location of the PVC valve on my Explorer 1999 4.0

between the firewall and the back of the manifold attached to the manifold more to the drivers side. its berried back there.

btw i would also recommend using a ford pcv valve then an after market since most after markets are metal and on some trucks they are loud as hell.

 

[Kimosabey01]

Re PVC Location

HI!! Thankyou soMuch for your help I found it