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2000 AWD Xploder from Turbo back to NA

Ok... Def not EGR related... Just poked around engine in work parking lot...

EGR and tube not even close to sound.. Sound is a loud tic tic tic tic coming from driver side mid back around the TMHs... Maybe from the piece that the TMHs has that portion that bolts on a section of the header or where header meets exhaust. In that general region it seems?

If leak is there would that cause all my symptoms like the idle and what not? Odd to happen out of the blue after a few months as well...
 



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The injectors are a big problem for the A/F ratio now, that may be all of the symptoms except the noise. I missed how big they are, what did you put in for the turbo, 42ish?

I'd avoid driving it until you change the program. In fact, what is stopping you from installing it now? If it's made for those injectors, I'd use that program now.
 






39s and a walbro 255 pump.

I'll install tune as soon as Henson mails it to me :-D I know that's the lean code issue that's why I didn't worry about that as I was driving it a little .. Prob going to have the headers re-torqued down in a few days and see if that helps with sound/idle (damn copper gaskets).
 






Header gaskets are very tricky, even though the copper are generally the best. They all need to be run for a bit, and soon be re-torqued to put a final crush on them.

Your fuel mileage is probably worse than mine now, those should be rich CEL codes. Night,
 






Header gaskets are very tricky, even though the copper are generally the best. They all need to be run for a bit, and soon be re-torqued to put a final crush on them.

Your fuel mileage is probably worse than mine now, those should be rich CEL codes. Night,

Yeah fuel mileage was about 300 on a tank before the funky tic sound and idle issues kicked in a few days ago.. now it seems to be worse tho hard to judge had only driven it a couple times.
 






Got my tune in from Henson... Hopefully will have time to put it on tonight after work, if not, then this weekend :D
 






Got email back from mandrel bend solutions.. they can't do gradual transitions and can just flare the ends.. not worth it.. I was wrong on sizing anyways, lol. It appears I need a 4" silicone adapter to connect to the 90mm LMAF.

I just ordered a 4" air filter connected to a 90mm Ford Lightning Air Filter Adapter MAF Flange bolted to the 90mm LMAF tube then a 4" to 3" reducer (I hope this is the right size lol, not at home to check). I will just delete the heat-shield for now until I can figure something out for that.
 






Blah! Was unable to load tune... My damn X3 has a BLANK serial number on the device (though it has a serial number on the official sticker thing on the back)... Waiting on a response from SCT now :-/
 






SCT was able to re-serialize my SCT3 thankfully and I loaded Henon's tune... Runs a LOT better but still some issues and the sound is still very loud... Made a couple videos to possibly help diagnose the problem. Also drove it around some and recorded my AF gauge... it's all over the place and when I gun it and let go of the gas he pegs high for a while... Where should it be and how should my AF readings be?

Here are the videos:

Engine bay: http://youtu.be/HjMHfj0cJh0

Tail-pipes: http://youtu.be/_HkDneZCVhY

AF gauge run: http://youtu.be/TV2c1so9HKY
 






The ticking noise near the engine sounds like the exhaust, and the rear tips could use moving out from being at the bumper.

I like the A/F gauge, and the readings look fairly expected given the throttle settings. The only thing I'd ask about is if the A/F needs to richen a little quicker when applying the throttle. It does lean out too much at the first touch of the gas. It gets to the desired 12/1 range or so quickly after a second or so, but I think it would be better if it responded faster.
 












Quick update: drove a little after tune and after about 10 miles got 2 codes:

P0307 Cylinder 7 Misfire Detected
P1000 OBD-II Monitor Testing Incomplete

Sprained my back Saturday in the gym so moving a bit slow... Will check out cylinder 7 boot and plug in a cpl days when I get a chance (hopefully tomorrow). Replaced the EGR valve and patched (temp fix until new part arrives) the PVC hose on my freestar so I will drive the minivan while working on the Xploder.

Thanks for all the suggestions/info!

As for the breather that's how it was set up when I bought the truck.. How is it configured stock?

Also.. Got all the parts to install the LMAF except the new air filter and once the issues are resolved I will toss that setup on and retune for it.
 












Ok, cool. Thank you for the info. It was prob there for when the truck was turbocharged... I will revert that back to stock then and order the stuff on rockauto.
 












Well.... did some poking around today... Is there suppose to be bolts holding the screws in place or are the flange holes threaded?

header_flange.jpg
 






hahaha.......yup. That might explain the tick.
 






Also... I found the source of MOST of the "tic-tic-tic" sounds... Turns out cylinder 7 boot was on but not "fully" connected to the spark plug and the sound I was hearing was the spark from the spark plug wire boot (and also the source of the code).

I reconnected the boot (not sure why I keep having problems with these damn spark plug wires and them coming loose???) and fired her up:

Exhaust sound at tips: http://youtu.be/rW7Bhr15vSI
AF gauge: http://youtu.be/nsy9Fw4ePFw
 






hahaha.......yup. That might explain the tick.

Yeah.. I saw that and was like.. WTF??

I think what happened is my header installer guy got confused when he asked me if the exhaust shop guy will be running all new exhaust and I said yes and the truck was picked up after the headers were done and flat bedded to the exhaust shop for the exhaust... The exhaust guy must of assumed the headers were bolted on and he actually started the custom exhaust right after the first set of o2 sensors on both sides and must of never looked at the flange! :( ARG.

What is the best nut (and size) I should use on these flanges?

Crazy, crazy, lol.
 



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The headers should have threads in those collector flanges, I'd bet those are bolts. The noise may be from a loose bolt, so check those collector bolts too.
 






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