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2000 XLT - stock with mild lift

manimal

Well-Known Member
Joined
June 27, 2006
Messages
152
Reaction score
20
City, State
Gig Harbor WA
Year, Model & Trim Level
96 XLT
Not much to say about it. 2000 XLT purchased a few years back with 90k original miles. 4.0 OHV auto.

Rebuilt front suspension - new UCAs, ball joints, TREs, sway links, new bushings all around. Rear leaf pack rebuilt with Procomp 13120 AAL + Warrior 153s, new spring pads and bushings. Adjusted front TT to match rear height increase, with small amount of rear bias. Cheap stock equivalent shocks front and rear. Netting roughly 2.5" lift front and rear.

Replaced puddle lights, all interior and cluster lights with LEDs from SuperbrightLEDs.

Ditched the factory side steps.

It does have one mechanical issue: VB may need to be rebuilt as it has the signs of a blown out separator plate - no issues shifting, but when 1st gear is manually selected, will not hold with compression braking. There is an old TSB for this and I've just been trying to decide if I want to do an entire shift kit when I drop the VB. Only noticed this because my 96 will crawl downhill in 4Lo 1st whereas this one would just try to coast like it was in drive.

Very nice secondary/hunting/camping/winter utility/etc. vehicle.

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There is an old TSB
Must be this one (update the main control valve to 3L5Z-7M203-JA)

Very good maintenance until now, no visible rust and good paint, like that!
A entire shift kit is always adressed to higher pressure, but not adressed to pressure leaks.
There are some Sonnax parts (end plug kit) that minimize the internal leaks, in my opinion
worth to install.
Another point is to bypass the thermostatic element, which should open at 70°C
to open the transmission cooler lines. If this doesn' work -> overheating.
I believe your VB is in good optical condition, but those changes could cause much firmer shifting.
Faster/shorter shifting reduce heat what is good, but not everyone maybe like this behaviour
of noticeable shift points.
 






Yes that is the TSB. The only behavior I've ever experienced is the no engine braking in manual 1st. Never seen a DTC/CEL come on.

West coast vehicles rarely have any rust beyond the usual light surface corrosion. I've never had a vehicle waste away from rust and very very rarely ever have to deal with any seized fastener.

This one was owned by an older school teacher who drove it to and from her school every day and parked it in the garage.

Interestingly someone did have the trans open at some point. The bottom of the pan was drilled and a drain valve installed.
 






Double
 






It definitely looks like finding the parts for that TSB are going to be a challenge.
 






That machine is an absolute beauty! And the low mileage is nearly unbelievable.

Not sure what to make of the 1st-gear observation, but with such low mileage and the transmission having been gone into by somebody (evidenced by the addition of the drain plug) I'd only be concerned for whatever else might have been done by the person who drilled that drain hole.

I'd dump the cash on the shift kit, there's nothing to be lost by doing it now while it's apart, whereas there is always the possibility that you might regret not doing it when it was apart, after you put it back together.
 






Finding oem parts for the valve body could be hard.
But i think a blown valve body gasket is the main reason in this case.
Optional a Sonnax rem. valve body, but it's expensive.
A drain plug is good, not such a mess with swapping oil over your body.
Use cork or fiber pan gasket with a very thin layer of rtv.
This Sonnax kit adresses many vb issues
 






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