2001 XLT D44-SAS

Ok, I'm going to start this thread since I'm hoping to be done with this by the end of September.

Ok, those were the pretty pics...then I cracked the cover off the pumpkin-

The thing had a ton of water inside...no gear oil came out, only water...

Now the questions for all you axle Gurus...

I can rebuild this no problem right?

Are the axle tubes sealed from the pumpkin, or did the water travel down the tubes?

I'd appreciate any opinions on this cause when the water came pouring out I got disgusted and put the cover back on...I'll have at it again tomorrow and start stripping it down.

From what can be seen- any ideas on what would have to be changed right off the bat?

Or am I looking at a total rebuild?

I want to swap out the knuckles and spindles for 5-on-5.5, they're hard to get here...any body know anyplace in Jersey or PA that I could contact and secure some F150 knuckles and spindles?

Opinions would be greatly appreciated!!

Particularly since I'm hoping to pick up the springs this weekend.

 

[cdsl227]

Another fruitful evening...

Pulled the front diffy, cut the crossmember. Did you guys put in a temporary crossmember when you cut yours out?? I didn't and measured after cutting because I heard a little thump when I broke through the first side, it worked out to be the same...I think it was just the tension on the crossmember.

And- the pile of junk grows...looks about right from what I've seen you guys come up with.

That's it, I'm gonna take off from work tomorrow and clean out the rest of the steel left behind, smooth over everything and start working on getting the axle positioned.

This has gone REAL smooth so far, I'm sure the real fun is about to start.

 

[NOTAJP]

You need a Monster Garage sticker.

 

[cdsl227]

You need a Monster Garage sticker.

More like need a Monster Garage because that thing ain't going in no more garages that's for sure.

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

Pulled the front diffy, cut the crossmember. Did you guys put in a temporary crossmember when you cut yours out?? I didn't and measured after cutting because I heard a little thump when I broke through the first side, it worked out to be the same...I think it was just the tension on the crossmember.

The V8 is a heavy sucker... and could cause the frame to splay outwards. If it were me, I would rig something up to keep the frame from bending. Small chance of it happening, but why risk it.

Also, are you insterested in selling some of those front end parts? I'm interested in buying:

-Wheel Bearings
-CV shafts
-Calipers
-Tie Rods

All depending on milage and price... so we don't take away from this awesome thread, PM me your response.

Keep up the good work!!

 

[cdsl227]

The V8 is a heavy sucker... and could cause the frame to splay outwards. If it were me, I would rig something up to keep the frame from bending. Small chance of it happening, but why risk it.

Also, are you insterested in selling some of those front end parts? I'm interested in buying:

-Wheel Bearings
-CV shafts
-Calipers
-Tie Rods

All depending on milage and price... so we don't take away from this awesome thread, PM me your response.

Keep up the good work!!

I was thinking of putting a block under the engine and lift it a little to take the weight off the mounts, then use a strap to draw the rails in a hair and weld in a crossmember up towards the front. I'm thinking to rig something under the engine that's removeable, but I'll have to see how the axle and driveshaft work out.

I want something I can remove if I have to go under the engine so the engine doesn't have to be pulled to do the timing chan right.

 

[NOTAJP]

I think Rick has a removable cross member. There's some cool pics on his SAS thread.

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

Oh man.. thats some awesome access to the oil pan!!

 

[Premier]

Nice. I have a few questions.. PM.

 

[azexplorer4by]

Looking Good

 

[cdsl227]

I've been working on cutting out the remaining crap under there, I've got the frame rails cleaned up and I painted them over with POR-15.

I know I still have welding to do, but I figured the POR-15 will just burn away when I weld. I figured there's some places there I may never see again, might as well whack'em while I can.

The reasoning for leaving the upper control arm mounts there is because they looked like they may just work their way into my shock towers I'm going to be making...

I think I'm going to have to relocate the oil filter that V8 is pretty damn big under there and it's not giving me much room for a steering box...

I'm going to see if I can work the front diffy mount points into a removable crossmember under the engine.

 

[cdsl227]

I pretty much have the axle positioned, I box measured to the rear leaf mounts...or X measured and came up with virtually the exact same number.

The front spring hangers are going to be fleshed out with supports welded in.

I'm going to start building the buggy spring mounts for the rear, first I'm going to cut the 3/8" angle that I'm going to use as the base tack it in place and let the weight down to see how far the springs compress so I can get an idea of where I have to position the angle iron for the final welding.

I've had all the pieces for the buggy spring, just gotta get them drilled so they'l be somewhat adjustable. I want to be able to go 2" forward or back so when the springs settle I can make the final adjustments.

Besides when I heave that monster bumper back up there I'm sure that'll drop it a little too.

The last three show how little room there is in there for the steering box...I'm leaning toward the 99 Grand Cherokee Saginaw box...it sits directly on top of the frame rail.

That would screw my shock tower plans, but...oh well.

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

AWESOME.

I forget your t-case plans, are you going Atlas II? Have you ordered it yet?

 

[rino351]

Looking Good
GREAT job so far!!!

 

[cdsl227]

I'm going with the Atlas II, but haven't ordered it yet. I'm going to try and get a month out of the AWD case with no front shaft. I'd like to be sure everything else is pretty much 110% percent before I lay out for the Atlas II.

Plus I have to get a rear shaft, or have mine lengthened. I'd like the dual cardan on it too.

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

Running the AWD 4404 without a front driveshaft will be more than fine, many people are doing it without ill effects. However, make sure the parking brake is 100% operational, as the park interlock only works when the front driveshaft is in.

Will you have to lengthen the driveshaft before the Atlas? The atlas and the 4404 are different overall lengths, and it would be a shame to have to mod the rear shaft twice.

 

[cdsl227]

Running the AWD 4404 without a front driveshaft will be more than fine, many people are doing it without ill effects. However, make sure the parking brake is 100% operational, as the park interlock only works when the front driveshaft is in.

Will you have to lengthen the driveshaft before the Atlas? The atlas and the 4404 are different overall lengths, and it would be a shame to have to mod the rear shaft twice.

I'm trying not to, but due to the cash flow at the moment I can't spring for the Atlas...I can, but I can't.

If I can get the stock shaft lengthened cheaply in a local shop cool, ultimately once I get the Atlass I want to be running new shafts. I was going to order from High Angle Drivelines, or Tom Woods (?).

 

[snocross1985]

Looking good so far! Keep up the good work, can't wait to see the final product.

 

[cdsl227]

What I'd like to know is where everyone gets this "steel sleeve" tubing they use to put through the frame for mounting the steering box.

Anybody??

 

[Fusion213]

Probably a piece of seamless steel tubing. That's what I'm planning on using unless there's something better.

 

[cdsl227]

Probably a piece of seamless steel tubing. That's what I'm planning on using unless there's something better.

Sounds good to me...