2001 XLT D44-SAS

[Premier]

You dont look too excited


Truck looks really good.. really damn good

 

[1996explorer4x4]

how high is the front and rear bumper off the ground?? and it looks really great

 

[cdsl227]

You dont look too excited


Truck looks really good.. really damn good

That's cause I realized how much more I've got to go, trust me I had the happy face on when the tires got there...

 

[TarHeel085]

are you planning on taking your BL out? looks awesome man!

 

[JoshC]

Wow, that is seriously huge! I like it! Does your state have laws on how high the head lights can be? Man that looks good though!

 

[cdsl227]

are you planning on taking your BL out? looks awesome man!

I was planning on keeping the BL for a while and see how it feels, I built the front rail extensions to position the front bumper the way I wanted it...if it's bad with the BL I'll have to pull the bumper off and reposition the mount plates...cut'em off, drop'em a bit and weld them in place.

 

[cdsl227]

Wow, that is seriously huge! I like it! Does your state have laws on how high the head lights can be? Man that looks good though!

I tried to find out about the height laws, tire coverage, headlights and all, but couldn't get a straight answer from DMV or the police.

The place where I get it inspected (state law) said he'd inspect it no problem last time I had it inspected...I told him what I was going to do- he said no problem.

I see vans running up and down Flatbush ave. with 4-5 inches of tire sticking out...they never get hassled.

I'll adjust the headlights a little.

 

[rino351]

Dude, those 35's look teeny!!! You could have put like 38s on there or maybe bigger!!
Still looks really good though !!

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

HUGE!!!!!

Who needs a lift? You can almost stand under it for oil changes!

And seriously awesome.

 

[cdsl227]

HUGE!!!!!

Who needs a lift? You can almost stand under it for oil changes!

And seriously awesome.

I don't know about standing, but I got that Fumoto (?) value from the group buy and you could defninitely squat and do it!

I know the 35's look a little small, but up close and personal they look sweet and just right...

I expect the front to settle a little over time, just how leafs go...but for right now the knuckle stops are perfect they won't rub in the front, I'll know if the back of the wheel is gonna touch the springs. Front and rear right now aren't going to rub anything that I can see.

 

[Nick26]

I haven't chimed in here in a while but ive been following every post from the start and I must say that looks nasty! Also I just realized that must be the first 2nd gen with a V8 to get a SAS!

 

[cdsl227]

I haven't chimed in here in a while but ive been following every post from the start and I must say that looks nasty! Also I just realized that must be the first 2nd gen with a V8 to get a SAS!

I think it is now that you mention it...

BTW, I just went with my girl and picked up a 93' X for her. I told her when she's tired of it I'll take it off her hands (she likes little cars).

 

[Con Seann3ry]

are you gonna wheel it?

 

[cdsl227]

are you gonna wheel it?

Yep, as soon as I know all the bugs are worked out and the fabrication is solid.

 

[cdsl227]

I've got 2 questions for anyone that has answers-

What methods can be used to measure for shocks?

I'm just curious because I don't have a fork-lift to twist it up to max everything out...so what I need is a shade-tree mechanics method.

How do you measure for the driveshaft?

What I'd like to do until I get the Atlas II Transfer case is just drop a dual-cardan universal on the stock drive shaft in the rear and lengthen it a little, then get a long travel shaft after the transfer case is in. I'm not putting in a front shaft until after I change out the transfer case.


Anybody?

I have thoughts on how to accomplish all of this, but I'd like to hear from some of you guys to either confirm my thoughts and/or learn a few different methods...

Thanks!

 

[NOTAJP]

For the shocks, I used a ramp to determine the fully extended and compressed measurements and determined the shock number from there off of Rancho's website. You can also adjust those measurements just a little with the shock towers to accomadate the shock length. If you don't have a ramp, look for a loading ramp, or a set of stair, or a bank that will extend out your suspension. I drove down the street without shocks and it wasn't that bad for a few blocks.

As for driveshafts, this is what I did. The rear is fairly simple. I determined the maximum distance the diff would travel and the measurement from the T/C to the pinion when the truck was level and normal ride height. After a few questions from the driveline shop, we determined that I didn't need a long travel spline (due to the rear driveshaft is quite long anyway) and went with a Double Cardin joint at the T/C just for extra ride comfort (I drive 85mph on the freeway everyday). You really don't want a long travel spline in the rear due to vibration. Their tollerances are not as tight as the standard splines, thereby vibrating. Now the front is another story (obviously by the diff being on one side). Here I had to have the truck on a ramp and determine the lengths all the way through the suspension travel to determine the length of driveshaft and what length of splines needed. If you don't have wicked suspension travel, the you might be able to get away with normal splines. Each rig differs.

 

[cdsl227]

Well I pulled the rear shaft apart today. I put in 2-1/2"x2-1/2"x7" solid steel blocks to bring up the rear a little. Then I noticed the rear shaft pulled apart at the splined joint.

I ordered 4 1980 F-250 shock towers today and had Ford Air Freight them in so I get them tomorrow. I'm going to run dual Ranchos in the front. Sams Off-Road has a special 289 for 4 RS9000's, they give you a coupon to get the interior ride adjust kit from Rancho for free- sounded good so that's what I'm going to get. I might guesstimate which shocks I need because there's no way I can twist this thing up enough to get good measurements. I'll have to live with the decision if it doesn't work out, until I can get true measurements, but I figure I'll get it close enough to right. I'll just go with a little more travel in the shocks, more than enough can't hurt much. Got no forklift or ramp to work with, and nothing around here I can use to twist it, so...

I also ordered misalignment spacers for the heims I bought and an extended stainless steel braided brake hose for the front, they're in transit.

I'm thinking I'll just order an extended ___________ (put almost anything here) brake hose for the rear and work it out in adapters, because with the 2-1/2" blocks in the back- what's there just ain't gonna do it and I don't think releasing the connector block from the axle is going to give me enough.

And- got some 1/4" angle steel to add support where the steering box is going to go.

I'll get pics tomorrow of whatever I get finished.

 

[cdsl227]

I edited the hell out of this because I found a solution...

I've got the V8. There's no way the box is going to mount up close to the frame. I'm going to be using 5/16 angle iron (5" on the outter frame rise and 3-1/2" on the underside of the rail).

I had the steel shop cut a piece of 1-1/4" plate 5-3/4"x7-1/2", pop 3 holes and thread them. I'm using grade 8 - 1/2" x 20 tpi bolts to bolt the box to the plate, I'll be welding the 1-1/4" plate to the 5/16" angle iron I'm welding to the frame for support for both the steering box and the dual shock towers I'm putting in there.

I'll be duplicating the 5/16" angle iron on the passenger side frame rail, but I may only make that side long enough to support the shock towers, unless I start feeling symetric, then I'll make that side about 23" also.

The plan was to tie the free end of the 3/8" plate that holds the buggy leaf into the angle iron to add support to that end since there's nothing there. Not that it's needed, but just to add additional support.

The 1-1/4" plate + 5/16" for the angle iron moves the box out from contact witht the A/C pump and allows me to angle the steering shaft end up a little toward the shaft. Now I just have to get the steering shaft out to the box, I'm thinking a couple of universals ought to do it for me.

 

[cdsl227]

I ordered a couple of steering shaft universals, a support bearing and a piece of 3/4" DD shaft. I'll probably end up running 3 universals in the steering shaft, but it'll work out fine with the support bearing. Ordered them from No Limit Power Steering.

I got the Tie Rod built, I'm using heavy stuff with 3/4" Heim Joints. I might go double shear on the passengers knuckle for steering and tie rod, but I'M considering another option.

I welded the support brace for the steering box and shock towers temporarily for fitment...I'll duplicate the 5/16" angle iron on the passenger side and use it for shocks and a removeable crossmember. The 1-1/4" plate is threaded to bolt on the steering box...I think that'll hold up well enough. I had to space the box out from the rail because the A/C pump on the V8 is right over the rail on the drivers side, no room.

I twisted it up as much as I could with a jack and some cinder blocks today...

I ran out of space between the truck and the fence post so I couldn't go up any higher.

 

[XplorerKid]

where did you buy your Heims at? What the specs on them? Price....

Thanks...