2002 Bad Scraping Drivers Rear Wheel

[davidmmm69]

noticed it last night and it sounded like massive grinding of the rotors!!!
It would only do it when i was taking a turn to the right putting all the weight onto the rivers rear wheel.
passengers side was fine and i had thought it was the brakes beause on the drivers side i could see the brake pad making a line on the rotor...
lift drivers side rear up and grab the wheel and WOW it was like really really really bad ball joints...but nothing to do with ball joints...hopefully i can explain this.
not sure what it was so I took the caliper off the pads were perfect.
Removed the rotor and then you have the knuckle/hub assembly which it is the part with the 5 studs still attached that can move in and out about 1/4 inch and i am sure it isn;t supposed to when the large driveaxle/hub nut.
Thinking maybe the hub nut is loose i bought the large socket which was 26mm.and it was tight as can be.
the whole thing once tight should not move back and forth correct???
once you remove the hub nut should there be a large washer behind it.It seems to me that would be enough of a spacer to tighten everything up..
I just bought the vehicle less than a week ago...which i love o much more than my 95 explorer..

 

[anthonytony]

when you say hub you mean the front correct. and yes there is some play in and out. if the play is up and down its more likely a bearing...causeing this noise.gl

 

[Buckshot]

Not sure from post, but noise and location (drivers rear wheel) sounds like e-brake issues.

Mine came apart and one half of the shoe was dragging on the drum grinding and squealing. Removed the e-brake and noise goes away.

Maybe similar issue?

 

[davidmmm69]

when you say hub you mean the front correct. and yes there is some play in and out. if the play is up and down its more likely a bearing...causeing this noise.gl

No I mean the rear drivers side,

when i say hub i mean after the rotor comes off it is the piece that the 5 wheel studs are ressed into.
there can;t be play because that would mean that whole thing can move up and down and side to side and the brake caliper stays stationary which is what is making the noise the caliper and shoes are fairly stationary but the whole wheel is allowed to wiggle..as if the wheel nut 36mm nut i mean is not in tight enough.let me say this i can put the rotor back on and caliper and i can hold the rotor and wiggle the whole thing and the shaft stay still.

 

[davidmmm69]

Not sure from post, but noise and location (drivers rear wheel) sounds like e-brake issues.

Mine came apart and one half of the shoe was dragging on the drum grinding and squealing. Removed the e-brake and noise goes away.

Maybe similar issue?

has nothing to do with the emergancy brake it wiggles bad even after the rotor is off which lets the emergancy pads out in the open ....Is the part that holds the wheel studs removable it looks as if it is really pressed on and it goes into the spindle on the rear drivers side,and you can take the hub nut off and push the shaft in and out about and inch ...is there some kind of bearings there???could that be an issue as to why it wobbles but not sure if you need a press to get that in so that the large nut can tighten up more.

 

[Buckshot]

Check into our our axle design for movement. I don't have my repair guide at the moment, but here are some pics of free floating axles vs. semi-floating axles. Don't know what we have without going to look it up - that's one part I haven't rebuilt.....
Free float:

Semi-float:

Looks like in free floaters, if you take off the axle hub nut, then the axle should have normal play in and out. Play up and down and side to side (as you sit looking at the cross-section of the axle) is not. In a semi-float, I'm not sure if the axle should have in/out play, but it STILL should not have up and down play.

There are bearings in there in both axle designs. These could be the issue and would explain why load on the axle (when turning right) would cause noise because in a either design, these bearings take some of the actual weight of the vehicle. (In a full float, the driveshaft itself takes no vehicle weight, but in the semi-it does - that's the main difference.)

Make sense?

 

[davidmmm69]

My question is what do i need to do and remove to get to the bearings do I need to take the axle out to get to the bearing or can i remove parts while leaving the axle in side the hub...the semi float is the solid axle style correct.. but i have the independant rear suspension...

If i remove the wheel the caliper the rotor the hub nut shouldn;t the hub just slide out over the axle shaft leaving the axle shaft staying where it belongs and if i do that then the bearing should be in the part in my hand right...
Do i need some kind of puller to remove the hub??

thanks for all the help..

 

[JDraper]

If it's an '02, isn't it still under warranty, or is the mileage too high? As for the problem, I haven't worked on a Gen III yet, but knowing how Ford builds stuff, I would expect the hub to have a sealed bearing assembly like the front hubs on a Gen II (see the second pix from sberkel).In that case, there is no adjustment to the bearing, and if the nut is tight there should be no play whatsoever. If you have play, I would suspect the sealed bearing assembly is shot.

 

[davidmmm69]

If it's an '02, isn't it still under warranty, or is the mileage too high? As for the problem, I haven't worked on a Gen III yet, but knowing how Ford builds stuff, I would expect the hub to have a sealed bearing assembly like the front hubs on a Gen II (see the second pix from sberkel).In that case, there is no adjustment to the bearing, and if the nut is tight there should be no play whatsoever. If you have play, I would suspect the sealed bearing assembly is shot.

there is close to 90000 miles on it now...the nut i very tight i surely ried that yesterday...

but isn;t what i have the first picture, the second picture s like from a solid axle where it all slides into the solid axle...

 

[davidmmm69]

do i need a specal puller for that???
I need to fix today as i am driving out of town first thing monday AM.

 

[davidmmm69]

Someone reading this had to have replaced it at some time..

 

[hunterdan]

Someone reading this had to have replaced it at some time..

NOt sure, but you should probably just take that nut off, then a few bolts that attach it to the spindle/control arm thing. (never dealt with IRS before). If you look at new ones, it mounts solidly to something from behind, maybe the struts, and you just unbolt it, unplug the abs plug, which im sure there is one, remove the large axle nut, and it should slide off. Best way is to crawl under there and look.

Dan

 

[davidmmm69]

Took the car to Firestone which they said they could replace the bearngs on one side labor only was $186 and after seeing what it took to get it off it wi be worth it, it took bout 1 hour to get it apart mostly alot with air chisel. and the bearing one one side was totally burnt, needless to say in mass no stores are open sunday where in florida every store was open on sunday so autozone who they said was the right bearing,ended up being the wrong one so last night my truck sat inside firestone apart.. hopefully early today they can get the correct bearings from ford...
in about another week i wil get my brother in law who works at a tech high school here in fall river he will take it and do the other side and i only pay for the cost of the parts,
sucks though had my 95 2wd for 2 years and never had to replace a part or fix it in 2 years over 150000 on it ...
Buy a 2002 with 88000 iles on it and already spent more in the 5 days that i owned it then the 2 years on y 95, but this is a 4wd and i must admit after driving it i cou never go back to the 95 which now feels like it rides like a tank compared to the 2002...

thanks everyone for the advice,,,

 

[davidmmm69]

cost me over $400.00 they said they coldn;t relplace just the wheel bearing they had to replace the whole hub...
My luck for wanting to get it done on a Sunday, I figured firestone would be cheaper.
turns out I could have got it done cheaper at the dealership.

 

[jfive]

anyone ever figure out how to get the hub off. I have mine tore apart, and can't get it done. I hate this thing right now. I was thinking the same thing, that the hub should just slide off, but it isn't. I can get the axle to go in and out a little, so I know its not the problem, but its stuck somehow, and I can't see any bolts that would be keeping it on. HELP PLEASE>

 

[turboexplorer]

There is three bolts behind the steering knuckle, take those three off then the hub should come as long as the axle is unbolted and the brakes are all off.

 

[turboexplorer]

Wait you have a third gen and I think they ahve to be pressed out off the other parts?? Not sure on third gens sorry!

 

[jdjame]

02 rear problems

Hey everyone, I had a question. I replaced the rear wheel bearings, rotors, pads, and e brake pads this weekend. I took it for a spin praying the grinding would be gone. But no still there and its kinda worse. I ran out of money I wanted to replace the broken springs and old struts. I am not sure what is making the grinding its only when I am turning. I also have the famous rear diff whine. Can anyone help point me in the right direction?

Thankas for any advise or help Justin :exp: