2002 - Need help with A/C vent issue

[EyeintheSky57]

Hi all,

I apologize up front if this problem has been discussed elsewhere. I did search but didn't find anything helpful.

I have a 2002 Mercury Mountaineer V6 2WD w/ 3rd row seating.

This vehicle came with the digital A/C controls.

PROBLEM -

Recently, out of nowhere, the A/C (set to 60F, fan at highest setting) has started venting some to the floor vents even when set to only discharge to the face vents.

In the past, when the fan was on high, the force through the face vents would almost blow the contacts out of your eyes. Now, I can barely feel the air on my face.

I still hear the blower as loud as it ever was and now there is a bit of air coming out of the floor vents (2 on each side of the center console/dash area).

Can someone please shed some light on how the a/c diverts air when different modes are selected?

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

[guilateen]

you might need the blend door actuater repair.hope that helps

 

[EyeintheSky57]

you might need the blend door actuater repair.hope that helps

I might be wrong but I thought the "blend door actuator" controlled temperature.

I had read the Stickied post on that repair but even in that thread, the poster mentions the hot vs. cold setting.

Am I confused?

Thanks.

 

[Exproblems]

>>>>>>>>>>>>This vehicle came with the digital A/C controls.
PROBLEM -
has started venting some to the floor vents even when set to only discharge to the face vents.
Now, I can barely feel the air on my face.
I still hear the blower as loud as it ever was and now there is a bit of air coming out of the floor vents (2 on each side of the center console/dash area).>>>>>>>>>>>>>

My 05 Explorer has a similar problem, but with out the digital AC controls, just manual adjust hot n cold knob. My blower works great, can hear it blowing lots of air, but when set to defroster vents, hardly any air comes out. Works better on AC vents. The dahsboard vents work off of a vacuum to switch back and forth from the various vents. Thats about all I know about them. A mechanic I spoke to about my defroster vent problem said a panel inside of the defroster vent may be blocking the air flow coming out of the vent. So far I've just lived with it. I don't believe your problem is in the "Blend door" area, since you haven't mentioned that you cannot get hot or cold air to come out the vents when switched to one of those temp settings.
Your problem maybe a vacuum hose came loose or off the back of your AC/defroster vent selector switch to your AC vents or it disconnected somewhere under your dashboard, most likely on the passenger side, upper foot well area, behind the glove box. There are several different colored vacuum hoses connected to the back of that switch. You can try and gently remove your center dashboard trim panel off, the one that surrounds the radio and heat and AC switches, it just pops on and off, no screws. Once off, look at those different colored vacuum hoses on the back of the AC/defroster selector knob. If one if off hanging loose, find the port to reconnect it to, should just slide on. If not there, open and fold down your glove box door, use a flashlight to follow those vacuum hoses to where they connect to, if you can. Some of them might disappear behind something or go through the fire wall. It's the best I can offer you right now. I have seen some articles on this vacuum hose issue with these vent problems in here, but I don't have the direct link to them to give you or I would, sorry. good luck.

 

[swetrid]

Look at see if the fresh air/recirculation door broke off. They break off and fall on top of blower motor and block air flow.

 

[not8taxi]

the piece in the vent that deflects the air might actually be broken...you might need to replace the venting unit inside...most likely if its broken you need to remove the dash to get to those pieces...pain in the butt i guess

 

[EyeintheSky57]

Look at see if the fresh air/recirculation door broke off. They break off and fall on top of blower motor and block air flow.

Any idea where that is located?

 

[merrick]

Look at see if the fresh air/recirculation door broke off. They break off and fall on top of blower motor and block air flow.

is this a common issue? my sister has an 05 with an airflow problem. the blower motor works hard on high as far as sound. it has never blown a fuse. on monday i planned on checking the current draw on the blower which i anticipate being within acceptable levels. i then plan on pulling the blower to inspect for fin damage/blockage. if the fresh/air recirculation door is damaged, would there be any diagnostic tests to determine that without physically checking it? airflow from one setting to another? any help would be appreciated. thanks.

 

[Exproblems]

>>>>>>>>Look at see if the fresh air/recirculation door broke off. They break off and fall on top of blower motor and block air flow.>>>>>>>>>>>>

Thanks for the info Swetrid. Do you know what I would have to remove on or under the dashboard to check to see if the air/recirculation door broke off? I can see the blower motor housing up, behind the glove box, oval shaped plastic housing. Would I have to disconnect the blower motor and remove it? Not sure if I have the skills for that type of job, having never removed one before. Do you know if the air recirculation door can be removed and left out of the vehicle or will have to be replaced or repaired for the vehicle to work correctly? I have a Haynes Manual for this truck and will research it there, but I'm not sure how great the R & R instructions are in this manual, since they cover various models of this vehicle. Thanks again.

 

[swetrid]

Basically you drop the glovebox down and look into the heater box above the blower motor, if you can see the firewall and engine compartment the door is broken off and laying on blower motor area. You can change the mode switch from ac to max ac look for the door to move also.

 

[Exproblems]

>>>>>>>>>>>>]Basically you drop the glovebox down and look into the heater box above the blower motor, if you can see the firewall and engine compartment the door is broken off and laying on blower motor area. >>>>>>>>>>>

I just went out and took a look up under the dashboard, above the blower box/heater box and here is what I could see. I saw 2 rows of plastic grate that you can see through the cut holes built into it. Inside, behind the plastic grate I could see what looked like the top edge of either a "plastic or metal panel" (I believe that this is the broken door you mentioned) and it appeared to be leaning off center or crooked. I also saw a small, thin tree branch twig sitting next to that off centered door panel. I could not see through the fire wall into the engine compartment even with the hood opened up to allow sunlight in. I can see 3 nuts or screws that hold the heater box down to the blower motor housing and I figure there is a 4th screw hidden in the far right rear corner, out of reach. I was thinking of using a long neck screw screw driver to try and adjust that panel door out of the way to increase air flow through the defroster vents for the time being. I can reach it through the holes in the plastic grate. There doesn't appear to be any electrical wires inside of there. I know by moving it I could make it worse or possibly better. Before I try something like this, I'd like your opinion and anyone elses that cares to give advice on this matter.


>>>>>>>>>>You can change the mode switch from ac to max ac look for the door to move also.>>>>>>>>>>>>

While looking at that off centered door panel inside the grated area, I switched the AC over to Max AC and the door panel never moved at all. It stayed in the same spot. Thanks again for all your help and advice "Swetrid"!

 

[EyeintheSky57]

Has anyone figured out the FIX to the broken recirc/fresh air door problem?

 

[tron422]

A/C heat selector issue

Can I add along with not being able to select heat (non digital control) a thumping noise comes from the dash when selector knob is moved one click off of max cold. Fan seems to be normal excepting lower volume at settings other than max.
Thanks.

 

[Exproblems]

>>>>>>>>>Has anyone figured out the FIX to the broken recirc/fresh air door problem?>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Try this link below. It's the only fix I've found on here for this air recirculation door. It's not something I'm going to attempt myself.

http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2008/08/2003-ford-explorer-ac-not-cold-enough/

 

[Exproblems]

>>>>>>>>>>>>Can I add along with not being able to select heat (non digital control) a thumping noise comes from the dash when selector knob is moved one click off of max cold. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

the thumping noise you hear is broken gear teeth on your "blend door actuator" and the blend door hinge tapping against the plastic housing behind the dashboard. When you turn the temp control back to the cold side, it usually quiets the actuator thumping, does the same on my vehicle. You can manually flip the blend door itself over to the heat side with your hand so you can get heat in your vehicle by using the "10 Second Blend Door Actuator" fix that is posted on this web site. This one will buy you some time and it's real easy to do through your glove box. I don't have the direct link at this time. Just type that topic into the search bar at the top of the web page. "Big Rondo" also posted a fix on here for the blend door actuator itself, both fixes come with photos on how to use them and any tools needed for the repair. No tools for the 10 second fix, just your index or middle finger. Flip the blend door hinge downward for heat.

>>>>>>>>>>>>Fan seems to be normal excepting lower volume at settings other than max.
Thanks.>>>>>>>>>>>

The fan isn't the problem and won't be affected by the actuator issue. If you do use the 10 second fix for now and still need heat each morning when you first start the vehicle like I do, set your fan speed to high before you turn the key over to start up. Once started, you can lower the fan speed. This has helped me keep the blend door on the heat side. The blend door was closing to the cold side if I started the vehicle up and had the fan turned off or on low, then I would have to do the 10 second blend door fix again and again.

 

[tron422]

Thanks for the information. I will take a look.

 

[EyeintheSky57]

>>>>>>>>>Has anyone figured out the FIX to the broken recirc/fresh air door problem?>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Try this link below. It's the only fix I've found on here for this air recirculation door. It's not something I'm going to attempt myself.

http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2008/08/2003-ford-explorer-ac-not-cold-enough/

Thanks for the link.

I went ahead and braved this repair tonight using that link as a guide. A few things I have learned:

1. The procedure in that link is just a skeleton overview. There are a LOT of necessary steps left out.

2. The 45-minute time estimate must have been done by a FORD-trained NINJA. It took me about 3 hours going slow and methodical just to finish the repair. Reassembly will wait until the morning. If the procedure had been better (like I hope to write) it could be done quicker, but 45mins is still not fair for an average home mechanic.

3. I also made 2 slight modifications to the door to "hopefully" prevent it from falling again.

4. Upon retest, the door sealed strong in the "fresh air (outside air)" mode but loosely in the "recirc" mode. So, in recirc, there is some slight "fresh air" leakage. Maybe a new actuator would fix this. Not sure.

5. I did NOT break the 2 inaccessible screws as suggested in the link. Instead, I left the door box mounted to the blower and removed the 4 accessible bolts to separate the two halves of the door box. This allowed plenty of room for my wife (yes, she likes AC too) to put her smaller hand in and put the door back into position while I reconnected the actuator arm.

I will get on the Repair Procedure as soon as I can. should have something done by this weekend.

I started the day replacing my front ball joints, sway bar links, and sway bar to body bushing. My hands are a bloody mess!

 

[Exproblems]

>>>>Thanks for the link.>>>>>>>>>

your welcome!

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>2. The 45-minute time estimate must have been done by a FORD-trained NINJA. It took me about 3 hours going slow and methodical just to finish the repair. Reassembly will wait until the morning. If the procedure had been better (like I hope to write) it could be done quicker, but 45mins is still not fair for an average home mechanic.>>>>>>>>>>

When I looked at the pictures for that repair, I also thought 45 minutes was way too little time for that job. I'm sure the Ford hourly/job rate for that repair is in the 5-6 hour range.

>>>>>>>>>>>>5. I did NOT break the 2 inaccessible screws as suggested in the link.>>>>>>>>>>>

Probably better you didn't so you didn't have to use that messy, sticky foam sealant they suggested to repair the broken screw connection point.

>>>>>>>>>>>This allowed plenty of room for my wife (yes, she likes AC too) to put her smaller hand in and put the door back into position while I reconnected the actuator arm.>>>>>>>>>>>>

Does the air recirculation door just hang on hinges or some kind of clip? Mine looks like it is disconnected at one end of it, kind of hanging on an angle or tilted to one side. It hasn't fallen all the way down to the box like in those web link pictures. Also, does the passenger side of the dashboard swing out after unscrewed like in those pictures? It appears the drivers side is mounted on some kind of a hinge.

>>>>>>>>>I will get on the Repair Procedure as soon as I can. should have something done by this weekend.>>>>>>>>>>

Great, I will keep and eye out for it. Congrats on attempting this repair. I don't have the flexibilty, skills or all the tools needed for certain repairs on these vehicles of today. I'm going to see if my extended warranty I purchased with this vehicle will cover my blend door actuator issue along with this air recirculation door problem. The actuator I think it will since it is a "manual electric motor", but not sure on the air recirculation door. I'll be talking to my mechanic about this warranty repair either later this month or next.

>>>>>>>>>>>I started the day replacing my front ball joints, sway bar links, and sway bar to body bushing. My hands are a bloody mess>>>>>>>>>>>>

Busy day, but at least you have the ability to save yourself a ton of money by doing your own repairs.

 

[EyeintheSky57]

Does the air recirculation door just hang on hinges or some kind of clip? Mine looks like it is disconnected at one end of it, kind of hanging on an angle or tilted to one side. It hasn't fallen all the way down to the box like in those web link pictures. Also, does the passenger side of the dashboard swing out after unscrewed like in those pictures? It appears the drivers side is mounted on some kind of a hinge.

I am going to try my best to explain this...

The door sits vertical, "mounted" at the top right and top left so it swings freely at the bottom. When I say "left", I mean drivers side. When I say "right" I mean passenger side.

RIGHT SIDE TOP: The door is square except on the extreme top right where it has a "nub" sticking out. This nub is about the size of the eraser (and metal piece that holds it) of a standard #2 pencil. This nub goes into a hole in the top of the door/air box.

LEFT SIDE TOP: The square door has a hole in the top left portion. When the door is in position, the actuator arm (a plastic arm that is attached to the small motor that operates the door) penetrates the top of the air box and then engages with the hole in the top left of the door. The arm and whole are made in a way that it can only go together one way.

AS FOR THE DASH: It does swing out just like the picture but not on hinges... You disconnect all of the bolts that hold the dash in place. There is only a about 11 total bolts/screws. Then, when pulling the passenger side, the wire bundles under the steering wheel holds that side close to it's normal position. The passenger side has only one wire bundle which you leave connected BUT detach from the inside of the dash (the wire connector snaps into a groove that is part of the dash, pop that off so the dash is free to move).

TOOLS:

• a cheap, plastic set of "door panel" removal tools
• flathead screwdriver
• Sockets: 7mm, 8mm, 10mm, 13mm
• 1/4 Ratchet with a 3" extension and a u-joint thing
• 3/8" Ratchet with a 3" extension and a 10" extension (for the "hidden" dash bolt)

Busy day, but at least you have the ability to save yourself a ton of money by doing your own repairs.

Hope that helps. I seen a cost posted of almost $1200 for this job. Thats ridiculous. From that link, the writer said FORD has this listed as a 6.9HR job.

This week, I replaced all 4 strut/shocks, all brake rotors and shoes, ball joints, swaybar end links, and swaybar bushings... and fixed this door. I have about $900 into everything but saved about $3000 in labor. The truck is ready to haul the family to the beach for 10 more years!

 

[Exproblems]

>>>>>>>>>

>>>>>>>>...

Thanks Eyeinthe sky for the detailed explanation, much appreciated.

>>>>>>>>>>RIGHT SIDE TOP: The door is square except on the extreme top right where it has a "nub" sticking out. This nub is about the size of the eraser (and metal piece that holds it) of a standard #2 pencil. This nub goes into a hole in the top of the door/air box.>>>>>>>>>>>>

From what I can see, the passenger side or upper right corner of my air recirculation door appears to be leaning or hanging downward, making me think it's come out of it's attachment point. The left side or drivers side, appears to be still level and attached. It hasn't fallen to the bottom of the box yet like in those pictures at the web link.


>>>>>>>>>>Hope that helps. I seen a cost posted of almost $1200 for this job. Thats ridiculous. From that link, the writer said FORD has this listed as a 6.9HR job.>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Yes it does help, thank you. This repair though, is way over my head to attempt. Knowing my luck, I'd screw up some other parts under the dash or get confused at what I'm looking at behind the dash. I only hope my warranty will cover it when I take it to my mechanic. Since it is connected to an electric motor, they might. I'll know more either by the end of May or June when I take it in. Not in much of a hurry now, that summer is finally here, up here that is.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>This week, I replaced all 4 strut/shocks, all brake rotors and shoes, ball joints, swaybar end links, and swaybar bushings... and fixed this door. I have about $900 into everything but saved about $3000 in labor. The truck is ready to haul the family to the beach for 10 more years!>>>>>>>

Congrats, nice job! You earned the trip to the beach with the family, enjoy it! Thanks again and I printed your post so I have it here at the house just in case I have to find some backyard mechanic to attempt this repair for me if my warranty doesn't cover it.