2004 NBX 4x4 drive train mystery...can someone help with the diagnosis? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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2004 NBX 4x4 drive train mystery...can someone help with the diagnosis?

Rynofx88

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March 1, 2018
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Year, Model & Trim Level
2004 NBX
For reference: 2004 explorer NBX, 4x4, 180K, limited slip, 3.73. I am the second owner - the original an ex ford tech who took very good care. No rust. To start with, and eliminate these as possible future suggestions, I just replaced both rear wheel bearings and rotors (Timken), all 4 struts, front tie-rods, new tires (not oversized - but traction tires) followed by an alignment. All in prep for the 2500 mile drive from Oregon to Tennessee.
My explorer had already been demonstrating the "shudder from a start while sharply turning" that seems to plague these vehicles and general consensus says issue with the clutch packs in the rear diff. Once on our way, the modestly loaded explorer seemed to groan and shudder much worse than usual. Nothing I could do, so I took it easy and we made it...until day three in TN...Most of the weight had been off-loaded and the shudder seemed to subside. Driving through town, I get a sudden loud knocking and when coming to a stop the explorer wanted to lurch or torque past my heavy brake input. I think it might be important to point out that the "lurching" was not a constant one, but seemed timed every 1/2 second with the rotation of something..(torque converter? drive line?etc.) Put it in neutral, no lurching, clunk back into drive and we are off clunking back to the house. Put in Park and it wants to roll away. I suspected transmission which is over my head, towed to a shop, they wanted to start with full replacement of the rear diff (where the clunk was coming from) and go from there...$$$$ I had it towed back to my garage, deciding I could handle a diff change. Pulled the plug, expecting horrible fluid and metal galore - but instead good looking green fluid with no metal at all. Eyeballed up into the diff through the drain hole, couldn't see any devastation. Jacked up the rear and rotated the tires by hand and get resistance every so often. driveline seems fine, engages when it should, no slop in U-joints. decided to pull rear passenger CV as something didn't seem right. The outboard or tire end of the CV has a 'cage' and ball bearings - the cage was busted. Replaced with new CV. Here's what's left. I've jacked all 4 tires off the ground, started it and engaged drive, still some rotational "clunking"... Step on the brake and it shudders and fights to a stop. Clunk into reverse and the same happens. Time to go in for the night, but I would appreciate some input on a direction to take from here. Tranny? I've owned it for a year now, and it has never slipped, hesitated, or had any other trans symptoms. Even though I couldn't see any major differential issues, should I pull it, open it up and look for something in particular? thanks in advance.
 



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Maybe your anti lock brakes are active due to a faulty wheel speed sensor, is your ABS light on or any codes in the systems.

None of what you described makes me think of transmission issues, I am thinking ABS, Transfer Case or the need for friction modifier in the rear diff.
 






Thanks, James. I'll look into the ABS. To be honest, I'm not even sure if my explorer has a separate ABS dash light - as there is not one on. The Service Engine Soon light is on, and I'll have to invest in a code reader (any suggestions on a decent budget code reader would be appreciated) as the trans shop read the codes - charged me $83 and gave me no codes or info... I'm thinking after work today, I'll drop the drive from the transmission end and see if I can isolate the issue as either in the front or the back.
 






**Solved**
It ended up only being the broken passenger side rear CV axle. New one from Autozone was $72, plus fluid and additive, and she's back running smoothly. The broken axle caused the catastrophic rhythmic clunking sound as well as the no Park issue - makes sense since Park is a function of both wheels rolling opposite directions, where a broken axle will allow it to roll whichever direction is of least resistance.
As a side note: Does anyone want to weigh in on the lack of ethical morality demonstrated by the transmission shop? They charged me $83 FOR DIAGNOSING ABSOLUTELY NOTHING. I don't even think they poked around, looked or listened. Wouldn't an experienced mechanic have noticed that when he rotated a wheel and the axle didn't spin that something was amiss? They were ready to order a new diff that day, and my feeling is would've yanked the old and put the new in without really even looking...maybe someone would've said "mmph. That fluid doesn't look too bad" when they drained it...but would they have taken it any further? $3000 for an $73 dollar fix. Needless to say, I'll be down Monday requesting my money back.
 






Glad you have solved your clunking issue.

What codes did you get from the check engine light? Any AutoZone will read them for free.
 






As a side note: Does anyone want to weigh in on the lack of ethical morality demonstrated by the transmission shop? They charged me $83 FOR DIAGNOSING ABSOLUTELY NOTHING. I don't even think they poked around, looked or listened. Wouldn't an experienced mechanic have noticed that when he rotated a wheel and the axle didn't spin that something was amiss? They were ready to order a new diff that day, and my feeling is would've yanked the old and put the new in without really even looking...maybe someone would've said "mmph. That fluid doesn't look too bad" when they drained it...but would they have taken it any further? $3000 for an $73 dollar fix. Needless to say, I'll be down Monday requesting my money back.

I would bring that to the shops owners attention and if that was my shop I would refund your money and have a serious talk to the tech who misdiagnosed it. Mistakes do happen and we all learn from them, so hopefully they will see it that way too and do the right thing. Good online reviews are a essential part of running a business these days and especially a service oriented business like a auto repair shop and a bad review will cost them a whole lot more that $73 bucks, just sayin.
 






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