Solved 2004 Sport Trac No 4WD High, but low works

[429CJ-3X2]

Well, it is NOT fixed. 4 High had to be working to get through the snow in the yard, but it apparently hasn't shifted into 4 High again after that.
Since January 8, we've had just over 24" of snow - about 10" on the 8th and 9th, the same later in the week, and 4" last Thursday. The main streets are in fairly decent shape, but the side streets are covered with rough, hard-packed snow. And it's been above 20 degrees F just 2 days since the 11th or 12th. My son drove it across town to work Thursday so I could change oil in his Mountaineer. When I swapped vehicles with him in the afternoon, the snow had just started. I didn't think it was in 4WD on the way home, but it was 1000' or less to a main street and then onto the freeway, which was slick, but traffic was slow, so I didn't need 4WD or have a place to test it. I don't know how my wife managed to get through the snow in it after that, and I expected her to get stuck in the alley at her dad's Friday, but she didn't.

Yesterday, I sprayed some electrical contact cleaner into the connector at the shift motor, but that didn't help. After doing a little reading about how the module works (not Ford specific), and checking the 2002 factory repair manual (when all else fails, read the manual, right?), it seems the module can cause all kinds of problems. The factory manual list a half dozen or so potential problems and causes, and the shift motor appears once and last on the list. Everything else points to the module, so today I'll try the module from the '01 parts truck to see if that fixes it. I should take the shift motor off the '01 today because the cold spell is over and it's going to get really sloppy as the snow melts. It was 29 degrees before 8 a.m. this morning, and it looks like we're headed for mid-30s to the 40s for quite awhile, with chances for ice a couple of times this week.

 

[410Fortune]

Good luck! I’m not sure 01 4x4 control module and 02 are the same it depends on the build date of the 01

The 4x4 control module or what we call the motorolla box only controls the 4x4 shift motor there are no other circuits connected to it

The older trucks the gem module also has the 4x4 ESOF functions built in, the gem module controls power windows locks lights and a bunch of other crap… I don’t think you have a gem module the 02+ use the stand alone Motorola box

I have replaced like 1 control module over the years
I have replaced countless shift motors

 

[429CJ-3X2]

From the O'Reilly's compatibility chart, and those on eBay, as well as looking up the parts for '01 and '04, they use the same part. It also fits a lot of years of Rangers. O'Reilly is the only major parts store that even lists the control module, and they only offer Motorcraft for $498. Yikes! Parts Geek has them for $283 (also Motorcraft), but their site doesn't show any details beyond the part number. There are sellers on eBay offering new ones. One seemingly reputable parts store has them for $323.

The control module is actually a mini computer that controls the shift motor functions. It gets input from at least a couple of sensors which prevent shifting into/out of 4Low on the go. As a mini computer rather than a simpler relay like I assumed, it can malfunction and cause all kinds of problems, which the repair manual indicates. My module clicks when the switch is turned to all positions, so it seems to be getting the signal to it, but isn't getting the signal to the shift motor for 4High. I can hear the motor shift into 4L, but there's nothing when going into 4H except a click in the module.

 

[dvdswan]

Don't forget Rockauto.com.... This is under 01 Sport Trac...

01 Ranger

04 Ranger....

no listing for an 04 Sport Trac control module.

 

[410Fortune]

They are found in many fords 02-08 explorers tracs rangers expeditions all use a version of the motorolla box
I have several of them in my shop I also have the wiring pigtails. I wire these into trucks all the time

There are at least two versions of the motorolla controller, torque on demand and no tod. Rangers never had control trac / tod they are simply 2wd 4hi and 4 low the explorers and expeditions had tod and there are additional sensors in the t case as well as no true 2wd only “auto4” and so forth

The control module is wired to the switch, the shift motor and gets inputs from the neutral safety
It is not that complex, the box is built by motorolla (it says right on the box)
You will find it behind the radio
The early tracs (early 01) still had a gem module thay did the ESOF shifting controls

The full size trucks use two relays to control the shift motor one moves clockwise the other ccw. Our trucks are not the same nor are the shift motors

Again I have replaced countless shift motors and only one control module over the years. The fault is almost always in the shift motor. The control module needs feedback from the motor to know what position it is in. Of the motor has an issue the control module will quit working. The only systems the control module can affect are the transfer case shifting systems the switch, and motor. It is not connected to anything else (like the gem module used to be)

Also again the early sport tracs still had a gem module that controlled the ESOF not a motorolla box so the oreillys and rock auto info maybe true, but it is not true for all 01s

 

[429CJ-3X2]

What's behind the radio? The control module is behind the kick panel on the passenger side.
The part # on the '04 module is 2L54-7H417-AB. The '01 module # is 1L54-7H417-AE, which is what shows up on all the searches for both years. The '04 module looks to be the original, but the '01 module has marks on the back that look like it may have come from a salvage yard.
I swapped modules, which didn't seem to change anything. I couldn't take a test drive due to a utility crew blocking our one lane deadend street before lunch.
The wife just left in the truck, so I'm done for the day. The rest of my day will be spent hauling the grandkids. Rain, snow and ice tomorrow, so I'm probably done for a few days.

I looked on Rock Auto when I was wanting to compare part #s and found nothing for an '04 regarding a module.

It looks like the shift motor doesn't interchange. Rock Auto shows the same Standard Motor Products shift motor, but the other options are different. Advance Auto shows different part numbers for the 2 years for all options.

 

[429CJ-3X2]

When I was under the '04 yesterday, I noticed the wiring for the shift motor is held in place by zip ties instead of the plastic fastener that would have originally held it, so the shift motor has probably been out, if not replaced, previously.

 

[oklagp1200r]

So I don't remember you here the relay click when placed into 4 high but does the shift motor have power then?
Did you ever swap out the shift motors?

 

[410Fortune]

Earlier tracs it’s behind radio I believe

 

[429CJ-3X2]

So I don't remember you here the relay click when placed into 4 high but does the shift motor have power then?
Did you ever swap out the shift motors?

I do hear the module click when shifting to 4 high, but the motor doesn't seem to be getting the signal or isn't responding correctly.

No, I haven't swapped shift motors. That'll be the next thing to do, but it looks like I'll have to order a new motor.

 

[429CJ-3X2]

I apologize if it seems like I'm rejecting or ignoring sound advice. I'm just trying to find the simplest/easiest fix using parts I have. I sincerely appreciate every bit of help.

Question - is it normal to have to move forward before backing up after shifting into or out of 4 Low? I don't remember this happening until the last couple of days, but if I switch to or from 4 Low and try to back up immediately, the shift motor whirrs and the truck won't move. If I move forward first, even a few inches, it's fine.

 

[410Fortune]

your shift motor is sticky!!

You don't have to move the truck to get into low, stopped in N with foot on the brake it will allow low range shift
If it is slow to shift or sticks, your shift motor is likely just sticky....lazy, however you want to call it. this is another sign that the control module is working and the issue is in the motor
Getting low range without high range usually indicates shift motor issue

you can put the motor on a bench and take it apart clean it up, usually this gets them working again

Ford Ranger forum

The Premiere Site For Ford Ranger Enthusiasts

ford-rangers.com

in this thread here I bench rebuild a shift motor for a 2000 Ranger with 300k on it
lots of pics and info
post 132

 

[410Fortune]

this picture, the brown plastic ring around the metal stub is usually what deteriorates. This is the stopper, this piece of plastic tube is what keeps the shift motor from traveling too far. When it deteriorates the shift motor will travel out of its range and the control module loses contact and cannot shift or determine its current position. For many years I have been taking these motors apart and we usually find this brown piece of tube is in pieces. i have some clear poly tube i use to replace it with, slice a piece of 1/4" off and it fits like stock.

in this 300k motor the plastic bit was still there and in tact, but I did rotate it 90 degrees so the contact surfaces changed

in the pictures you can also see the hash marks on the stator cover (in background the grey plastic piece with the wires in it. On the side there are several vertical hash marks. The marks line up to marks on the metal case. You need to mark its location/orientation before you take it apart!
if you put the motor back together and you do not have a shift, you can loosen the 3 torx screws and move the cover slightly one way and then the other until 2wd, 4 hi and low shifts are working.
you can see the screws holes are slotted, just for this purpose

some of the aftermarket motors are not rebuildable and you cannot take them apart. Pictured is a stock 2000 ranger shift motor...these are very good....way better then what came on my 1988 bronco ii from the factory, but still basically the same ol shift motor. F150 and expeditions use the SAME MOTOR

hash marks and oval holes

 

[429CJ-3X2]

Thank you! I'll give that a shot!
New motors aren't terribly expensive, but I'll have to order one since the parts stores here, including at least 2 of the 3 with distribution centers, don't have them in stock. I planned to pull the old one off to get a part # before ordering since the listings are confusing and not well detailed. If I can clean the one I have, it'll save time and money, and I'm all for that!

 

[410Fortune]

yes AND the stock motor waaaaaaaay better then aftermarket

I rebuilt my stock 88 one twice in 300K miles, never had an issue after rebuild it was still working when I went to a manual t case

the one in that ranger thread had 301K miles on it and was still working, just "sticky" like yours. Anytime I hear a delayed shift or a harsh shift from the motor I know to "rebuild" them....... its FREE!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[oklagp1200r]

On my 2001 the module is in the kick panel. My headlight switch is jacked up but I can still manipulate it to turn on the park and headlights. This being said if I engage the 4 wheel drive with the lights off I get no light indication on the dash that it's in 4 wheel drive but if I turn on the park or headlights it illuminates!

 

[429CJ-3X2]

in this 300k motor the plastic bit was still there and in tact, but I did rotate it 90 degrees so the contact surfaces changed

What shape is the nylon stop that the plastic bit bumps up against? I have that cover off and the gear out. There is no plastic ring around the metal stub, and no sign there ever was one. Both sides of that stop look like the metal stub has worn the stop to the point that at least 1/3 of the stub would fit into the stop. I've been searching the web, but haven't found a pic of that part. Other than that, that part of the motor looks pretty good - no rust and a reasonable amount of grease.

On one video I found of a teardown, the guy said sometimes you can rotate that 1/2 moon shaft, and that will clean up the electrical contacts on the circuit board that the wires connect to. When I first moved that shaft, it felt rough, but cleared up immediately.

I'm as certain as I can be that this is an aftermarket shift motor. There are no labels or markings at all on it to indicate a part #, and no signs that there was ever a label. I crawled under the '01, which has 190,000+ miles most of which were much rougher than the 211,000 the '04 has, and it still has the original tag on it (which was fairly legible until I rubbed the dirt off with my wet glove).

I really don't want to open up the case/body. I've rebuilt starters and alternators, but it's been 40 years, and I wasn't comfortable doing it. Fortunately, I got everything back together and it worked.

 

[410Fortune]

The plastic stop has likely deteriorated and is causing the issues
Try adding a piece of tubing and put it back together

 

[429CJ-3X2]

 

[429CJ-3X2]

Sorry for the huge image above. I posted it directly from my phone and didn't realize it would be so big. The intent is to show how badly misshapen that stop is.

I put a piece of tubing over the metal stub, greased everything, put it back together, and reinstalled it. No change - still no 4 High, but 4 Low works. I haven't tried adjusting it because the underside of the truck would have been dripping water after the test drive, and I spent today working on my son's Mountaineer.

A video about adjusting the motor came up on my YouTube suggestions last night, so I watched it. The video should never have been posted. The guy never says what adjusting accomplishes, and spends most of the time (under 5 minutes) trying to get it back together after taking the cover off and removing the gear without marking anything. He ends by saying he'll try again after marking things. I don't know how he was going to mark it after he screwed it up so badly. That video has several thousand views. Part 2 where he comes back to try again after marking it has about 60, and I'm betting most of those 60 didn't watch it all the way through. I didn't. He blew his credibility with the first video.

The more I look at that plastic/nylon stop, and this motor overall, I think I'll go find one in the salvage yard in the next day or two. At the very least, I'll open one up to see what that stop looks like in an OEM motor. Maybe I'll buy one if I find one that looks decent. Most of the listings for new motors don't have enough details to guarantee you're getting the correct motor. Some listings read in part, "Transfer Case Shift Motor -- with ID tag (3L24-AA)". That looks like that # is on the motor, but it's on the tag on the end of the transfer case. It looks like the Rangers went to this T-case and motor in 2000/2001, and the Sport Tracs made the switch in 2003 or 2004. And of course, it's $175 at most vendors (and a Dorman at that) vs $100 or less for the other model. I'd rather have an OEM.

Fortunately, our immediate need for 4WD is about over. It's been above freezing with some rain since Monday. The snow is melting quickly, and soaking into the ground for the most part. It'll be awhile before it's all gone, but at least the streets are clearing.