2004 Upper Control arms Help!! | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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2004 Upper Control arms Help!!

Berky

Member
Joined
January 7, 2015
Messages
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City, State
Pa
Year, Model & Trim Level
2004 Explorer
Whats the best brand for the money? I found Dorman control arms, both for $109. Dorman has seemed to always be a good product. Then I read a review were the ball joint can apart almost right away after installation. Just dont want to buy junk or over pay either? What worked for you guys? Thanks
 



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people here say moog is good

i had new moog upper and lowers put on my 95 - from rockauto

used the one piece upper on the passenger side instead of that two piece style
 












Whats the best brand for the money? I found Dorman control arms, both for $109. Dorman has seemed to always be a good product. Then I read a review were the ball joint can apart almost right away after installation. Just dont want to buy junk or over pay either? What worked for you guys? Thanks

I bought front uppers, front lowers and rear uppers off ebay from primechoiceautoparts and macautopartsdiscounts and autopartsexp and have had no issues with their parts.
 


















I ended up getting them discount from Napa on my buddies commercial account. They are made by "Dana". They told me they have a lifetime guarantee. Covers it all, bushings, ball joints whatever go bad.
 












I used duralast uppers. I paid $20each for them with a commercial discount. Worked fine.
 












From what I've seen, everyone has gone to China for control arms. A few years ago they used to cost more. Then the market got competitive on them. This meant that everyone dropped their premium lines.

I'm of the opinion that all control arms come from maybe two different manufacturers. See where it's made. If they all come from the same country, go with the best price, customer service and warranty.
 






Dorman uppers on my 02 this past summer. Absolutely no problems with them
 






Here's a check for everyone. On the outer side of each bushing, there is a nut. The bushings that rod goes through which mounts to the frame. These bushings are pressed into each end of the arm.

Kind of hard to see, but with your fingers, check and see if the nuts are still on, if they are, have they backed off at all.

This only applies to those who've replaced the OE units.
 






I have heard good things on the Moog upper control arms, but I'm going with Motorcraft

I don't mind spending the extra money on OEM parts. I'm going to order and install them in the Spring. My current ones have busted/rotted ball joints, and usually squeak going over bumps. Lowers look great all around, and feel good so I will assume if the squeaks are gone after replacing the uppers, they should be fine.
 






I have heard good things on the Moog upper control arms, but I'm going with Motorcraft

I don't mind spending the extra money on OEM parts. I'm going to order and install them in the Spring. My current ones have busted/rotted ball joints, and usually squeak going over bumps. Lowers look great all around, and feel good so I will assume if the squeaks are gone after replacing the uppers, they should be fine.

The busted boots is a defect which I've only seen on the OEM's. If you get them from Ford, you'll be buying the same ones that went bad. After market versions (known names) come with an upgraded boot.

I'd check with Ford 1st and see if theirs have an updated boot. If they say IDK, or no, then you are wasting your money.
 






The busted boots is a defect which I've only seen on the OEM's. If you get them from Ford, you'll be buying the same ones that went bad. After market versions (known names) come with an upgraded boot.

I'd check with Ford 1st and see if theirs have an updated boot. If they say IDK, or no, then you are wasting your money.

That's an excellent point. In that case, I think I'll go with Moog and not chance OEM.
 






I did the ball joints only, for $20 each. The bushings were intact with no concerns. The hardware looked scary. Pressed on and off without removing the control arm from the vehicle. I cut the stud off using a grinder prior to pressing it out to make it easier and not require any special adaptors other than the standard c clamp style one with the included 2 plates and 3 adaptors.
 






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