2006 6r60 trans fluid change.....anyone? | Page 3 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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2006 6r60 trans fluid change.....anyone?

Good job sir.
You can just leave in the yellow dip stick for testing. When your all done with the correct fluid height screw the metal cap back on.
 



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Thank you vipersinu2 :D
Your tips were great!
Do you know roughly how much I should put back in, I let it drain for 5 days now :O
Good job sir.
You can just leave in the yellow dip stick for testing. When your all done with the correct fluid height screw the metal cap back on.
 






Kinda hard to tell, because you were leaking out of those o rings on the oil cooler.
My cooler was leaking slightly for 1.5 years, i used 9 quarts.
 












Tips on this one would be to use OEM filter as some of the aftermarket fluid intake ports are located high and in the front of the filter. It would be best to have one that utilizes the filter fluid intake on the bottom of the filter that fits necely in the dimple in the transmission pan. Be aware that you will need to get the level correct. Too little or too much will cause problems with the transmission shifting. The level will also be different once up to temperature. Refill while cold up to get a registered reading on the dipstick then cap up and take a ride to get temp up. Leave running in park and take dipstick reading. Fill to fill line. I'd check the level a few more times after a few days. Always check when hot idling in park. Oh, and watch the exhaust pipe near filler hole/dipstick it is HOT.
 






I am following this thread and staying away from commenting it just to give the new members the floor since I feel like my posts are getting old :) and boring.

But decided to chime in after all.
I do not believe the flushes are bad, pan and filter drop may be better but we do not really have enough sample data to make a educated decision here.

I've had my car for something like 10-11 years, bought it in 2007 when it had 30-40k miles on it.
Towing every year, plowing snow every year few on driveways, just friends and neighbors.

I had Ford do my first flush at around 60k, then at 120k, then at 182k or so.
At around 213k I was told I need a new valve body. That was the first time I dropped the pan and filter. Since that did not cure the issue and I though that I had a defective "new" valve body, they sent me another one so I opened it again maybe at 215k.

My 6R60 mechatronic replacement - saga continues, pictures..

In the end it was bad coils......but got the Mechatronic changed, twice :)

Then at 254k, I opened it again:
Fluid and filter replacement on 6R60

And just a month ago at 269K I did another pan and filter change.
I did it since over the summer (like every summer) I towed trailers, and on one of the trips for several hundred miles in the middle of July, my tranny temp was going over 230F so I figured, it won't hurt.
Surprisingly, the fluid looked like new and there was nothing on the magnet.
So in short:
60k flush
120k flush
182k flush
213k pan dropped, filter and fluid replaced
215k pan dropped, fluid replaced
254k pan dropped, filter and fluid replaced
269k pan dropped, filter and fluid replaced

Fluid after 15k miles including towing and plowing
TBS27Ja.jpg


I usually measure how much fluid I collect and refill same amount.
 






so ive done a search and cant seem to find much info. has anyone done a transmission pan drop and filter change on a 2006-2010 explorer with the 6r60 6spd transmission? my 2006 EB currently has 62,000 miles and id like to drop the pan and change the fluid and filter. I will be using motorcraft mercon SP with a motorcraft filter and I have a fluid pump to fill it back up. my question is has anyone else done this on their own? or is everyone going to the dealer? how much fluid will I need? just wondering if theres any problems I will run into. thanks
Yes, I have done it. It's pretty straight forward. Easy to change, especially if youhave a fluid pump. Drop the pan, remove the filter, make sure the o ring came out with the filter. Lube the o ring on the new filter and install. The fill plug is on the passenger side front of the transmission. You take it off and remove the yellow dipstick out before filing. If i remember correctly, it was 6 quarts of motorcraft sp trans fluid. Other than not having a filter neck. It's just like the older rear wheel drive trans changes. Have fun. It's not bad at all.
 






OK, Just to add to the confusion...

I went to my local dealer today to pick up a filter, a gasket (just in case I need it) and 8 qts of Mercon-SP.

The parts guy was able to get the correct filter ($51) and gasket ($15) for me. When he asked how many qts of Mercon-SP I wanted, I told him I was only doing a pan drop and a filter change, and that I thought I would need between 3 and 4 qts.

He suggested it sounded low, and he (without me) went out to the shop floor to ask one of the techs. He came back and said the tech said that "We don't do just the pan-drop and filter, we do a complete flush, so I am really not sure how much a pan-drop and filter change would take. I would get 8 qts and return what you don't use".

I explained (to the parts guy) that the Ford shop manual does not recommend a flush because of the thermostatic nature of the fluid path. He (the parts guy) said "that's a whole different story" and really just blew me off (he really didn't want to discuss it with me), so I just completed my purchase and went on my way.

So my question, (like many here on the forum) is:

1. Is there an official Ford recommendation to flush and
2. If so, where (if at all) is it documented?

Could the tech be confusing 6R60 with another transmission?

Thanks.
There is a thermal valve in these transmissions. A flush doesn't clean the filter and it won't go through the cooler either unless the transmission is up to over 180 degrees. That's pretty hard to get while it's hooked up to a machine. Best bet, drop the pan and change the filter. These transmissions will hold up a long time by doing this.
 






Bottom Line

I guess after reading all of these replies that even do it yourselfers are lining up at the dealers for this job. It looks like that is where I'm headed (i'm wearing a bag over my head though).
Gr-r-r-r.....
6r60 trans filters and fluid change is easy as long as you have a pump to put the fluid back in the trans.
 






I think they do it because people seem to neglect the fluids anyways, why not eliminate things most people don't know existed in the first place!! My opinion or yours, they're building cars disposable and harder to work on for the average Joe the plumber in his driveway. Grease for life this, and unserviceable that. I like to work on em and try to every chance I get.
The 6r60 dotted have a dipstick under the filter cap on the front passenger side of the transmission.
 






They do a better job of flushing the xmsn than you can by removing the pan and draining 2 quarts of fluid out. There is a reason why dealers use them. They flush all the crap out of the xmsn, lines, and radiator.
The transmission flush machines is their lazy way out. They don't get all the fluid out on these transmissions, because they can't get them hot enough on a host or bay to open the thermal valve in them to cycle the fluid through the cooler. These are not electronically controlled valves, so there is no way to activate it.
 






My two coppers:

I had the transmission fluid and filter changed on my 2006 Explorer V8 at a local transmission shop, arguably the best in town - the guy specializes in Fords. He dropped the pan, and replaced the filter with genuine Motorcraft parts, and refilled with Motorcraft Mercon LV. I asked him about this, and he said he always refills them with LV, and never has had a comeback. To drive the point home, he agreed (and wrote on the invoice) that he would guarantee NO fluid related problems, or performance concerns with my transmission. He was that certain, and by all indications, he's putting his money where his mouth is.

Shortly after the transmission service, I had a friend at a Ford dealer re-flash the Explorer with all of the latest upgrades for the PCM.

It has NEVER driven better, or smoother. I now have about 25,000 miles on it since the flush and update, and I'm telling you, it shifts PERFECT, and my gas mileage did not decrease until my exhaust manifold began leaking, and at that point, only by about one MPG. It routinely still gets on average, around 18-19 MPG.

One guy's experiences here...your mileage may vary.
 






Thanks for the thread, I just bought a 2006 Eddie Bauer version and will be looking to at least drain it, clean the filter and fill it this coming spring. I bought it with 106454miles on it. The fluid is dark but not burnt.
 






Has anyone done this on the 6R60 6 speed ?
Yes, I've serviced a few of them, there's a plug in the side pull that and fluid will start draining, then drop the pan, clean it and your magnet, replace your filter, re install your pan, it is a reusable gasket, fill with fluid until it just starts dribbling out, start you engine, run it through the gears and add fluid once again until it just starts dribbling out, replace your plug in the side and your done, drive it a little bit check the level with it running again, top if needed. It's a pretty straightforward job, helps to have it on a lift, and I like to add a bottle of trans-x, it's good stuff, these are great transmissions, they stand up very well, hope this helps, good luck
 






I hope they didn’t have to wait 9 years for this reply.
 






Now the cost of transmission fluid is really high. For what it can cost for the fluid and filter, I'd consider installing an aftermarket dipstick, and do it the old easy way. I hate the cost of those dipsticks, $250 is crazy for a two foot length of hose and the nice ends and bracket to mount it. But it's a viable cost given what everything else is now, and it makes servicing the newer transmissions far better. Don't look at what a deep pan costs either, that's much more.
 






Now the cost of transmission fluid is really high. For what it can cost for the fluid and filter, I'd consider installing an aftermarket dipstick, and do it the old easy way. I hate the cost of those dipsticks, $250 is crazy for a two foot length of hose and the nice ends and bracket to mount it. But it's a viable cost given what everything else is now, and it makes servicing the newer transmissions far better. Don't look at what a deep pan costs either, that's much more.
Refilling a 6R60/80 isn't to difficult, IMO. It is having to drop the pan to drain it. I had a drain plug welded into my pan when it was last dropped to get out of doing this for two out of three drains and refills (40k drain intervals). I have no issue keeping the filter in place for 120k miles. The plug cost $15 and a shop charged $60 to weld it in. Even at $250 for the dip stick, it would very likely pay for itself with the first service if the pan had to be dropped.
 






I do wish the new models had a drain plug in the torque converter, being able to get that last two quarts out is helpful. Unfortunately to drain more than the pan does, that requires loosening the VB bolts enough to let air get up inside. That allows trapped ATF to come out, which is about eight quarts. I drained all of it from my last 98, and installed a deeper pan, it took about 16 quarts to fill it(TC drain plug out). That's a high cost of fluid these days, and that was with Amsoil back in 2017.
 






Got a 2008 XLT V8 with 231K miles on it. I did a transmission filter change around 125K. Pretty straight forward.
Drop pan, let fluid drain, replace filter, refill. Be sure to use Motorcraft trans filter. I used an aftermarket and had to relace as it would not flow correctly and lost pressure. Also, be sure you use specified fluid and do not over/under fill. Fill hole and mini dipstick is on 3/4" nut just above pan. Must fill and check level from underneath vehicle. Check level while hot and idling in park. Carefull of exhaust, it is right next to filler hole and HOT! Ask me how I know. May need to check and refill after a little driving.
 



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Got a 2008 XLT V8 with 231K miles on it. I did a transmission filter change around 125K. Pretty straight forward.
Drop pan, let fluid drain, replace filter, refill. Be sure to use Motorcraft trans filter. I used an aftermarket and had to relace as it would not flow correctly and lost pressure. Also, be sure you use specified fluid and do not over/under fill. Fill hole and mini dipstick is on 3/4" nut just above pan. Must fill and check level from underneath vehicle. Check level while hot and idling in park. Carefull of exhaust, it is right next to filler hole and HOT! Ask me how I know. May need to check and refill after a little driving.

Yes, that's just what I want to do, burn myself multiple times while checking the trans fluid level. Jacking the vehicle up enough each time to check it, is also easy and fun to do, no thank you. I have countless other tasks to do, I don't need to choose a harder method than a proper dipstick. :(

I might even order a dipstick before I get a 6R80, I already have the shifter and shift cable.
 






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