2011 Front Lower Control arm replacement

[Crstfr]

Hi all ~

I've been a lurker for a very long time, have learned tons of tips and tricks on how to do things, what not to do, what to expect, etc.

Super appreciative of everyone's help, even tho you don't know you've helped me.

I have a 2011 Copper Limited, bought used in 2015. I have most of the typical issues that others have seen, rattling A pillars (fixed by stuffing tape underneath them); leaking roof rack (fixed by turning it into a smoothtop, and sealing the bolt holes); back up camera is reversed, and only works when it wants to (haven't fixed yet); and the front end, low speed, clunking (which I fixed by replacing the end links); of course there are numerous others... but

Here's the issue I've run into - as soon as I replaced the end-links, I noticed that the lower control arm bushing was leaking (the big sucker). Bought replacements, as I'll do both sides, even tho only one has problems right now.

However, I'm running into issues getting the lower control arm to give up the bushing. Wasn't sure if there was a "best" way to do it, but at this point, I'd appreciate a "good" way, or even a way.

Thank you in advance - and I did search the forum, especially the front end clunking threads. See lots of posts about it needing to be done, but none that I could find that detailed the best how.

Pointers welcome!

-topher

 

[Runamuk13]

So, CRSTFR, how did you get the bushings off the control arms?
I'm curious as I'm considering replacing the lower control arm bushings as I have a pretty strong shake during heavy braking at about 60-65 mph.

Thanks

 

[peterk9]

So, CRSTFR, how did you get the bushings off the control arms?
I'm curious as I'm considering replacing the lower control arm bushings as I have a pretty strong shake during heavy braking at about 60-65 mph.

Thanks

FYI, the member you quoted was last seen here March 28, 2019.

Peter

 

[03WIExplorerLtd]

Replace the whole arm. New bushing included.

 

[Tazoez]

Replace the whole arm. New bushing included.

Agreed... I just had to do both control arms. 2016 with 51k on her. Alot better

 

[Runamuk13]

Agreed... I just had to do both control arms. 2016 with 51k on her.

Thanks Tazoez.

What symptoms did you have that led you to deciding to replace the control arms?

My 2011 EX with 99,000 miles has a pretty strong shimmy during hard braking at 60-65 mph. Most obvious when braking on freeway exit. I don't have any other symptoms - no clunking, no thumbing, no vibration, no shimmy while driving, just this strong shimmy while braking. It feels like the entire front end of the car is shacking during hard braking.

 

[Tazoez]

Thanks Tazoez.

What symptoms did you have that led you to deciding to replace the control arms?

My 2011 EX with 99,000 miles has a pretty strong shimmy during hard braking at 60-65 mph. Most obvious when braking on freeway exit. I don't have any other symptoms - no clunking, no thumbing, no vibration, no shimmy while driving, just this strong shimmy while braking. It feels like the entire front end of the car is shacking during hard braking.

I have/had that too but I feel that it's more of lower grade pads and rotors that the dealer put on before I bought her. I stick with fleet grade since it can handle highway braking better.

2017 GMC Sierra 3500 | Mileage: 54,773 miles​

4D Crew Cab​

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carmax.com​

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The way I knew was I would go over rutted roads (sunk in by 18 wheelers over time) at low speed, maybe 10mph max and I would hear a banging from the front end and if I was in the middle of a turn with a bump, the front end felt like it shifted/pivot. ( pivot, pivot.... sorry for the Ross from Friends joke)