22mm remote oil filter adapter

[koda2000]

Does anybody know of anyone who offers a remote oil filter kit for the 4.0L SOHC engine with the 22mm oil filter? I've searched and searched and all the kits I see are for 1/2" or 3/4" SAE.

 

[01STrunner]

I feel like vroomzoomboom or 2000streetrod did that mod. One of the 2nd gen Ex street trucks. I can't remember which have the 22mm and which have the 3/4" filters though.

Also, after reading TurboExplorer's threads it sounds like the kits they use for 5.0s are metric.

 

[swshawaii]

2001 Job 1's use the standard thread, FL1A. 2001 Job 2's thru 2005 use the metric thread, FL820S.

https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2886186&postcount=2

Anything useful here?
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/filters-and-by-pass-systems/by-pass/
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...-parts/bypass-filter-mount-replacement-parts/

 

[koda2000]

Anything useful here?
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/filters-and-by-pass-systems/by-pass/
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...-parts/bypass-filter-mount-replacement-parts/

Amsoil lists a couple of things as 22mm, but without photos I really don't know what I'm looking at and if it will work for my particular usage.

 

[koda2000]

I feel like vroomzoomboom or 2000streetrod did that mod. One of the 2nd gen Ex street trucks. I can't remember which have the 22mm and which have the 3/4" filters though.

Also, after reading TurboExplorer's threads it sounds like the kits they use for 5.0s are metric.

I could be wrong, but I think 2000streetrod's engine is a Job 1, which would mean it's uses an SAE oil filter, like my '97 Sport.

I know my 5.0's use a 22mm oil filter, but I don't know if an adapter for a 5.0 would work on a 4.0L SOHC. I would think if it would I would have seem it listed in one of my many searches. I found one manufacturer who listed it on their web site as coming with a 22mm adapter but when I looked up the same part number on eBay it only showed it coming with the SAE sizes.

 

[swshawaii]

Not sure if you want to use an adapter, especially for the prices.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FRAM-PH2-FL...l-Filter-Mount-Converter-Nipple-/221234946545

http://derale.com/products/filtrati...s-and-manual-on-off-switch-with-wiring-detail

 

[koda2000]

Not sure if you want to use an adapter, especially for the prices.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FRAM-PH2-FL...l-Filter-Mount-Converter-Nipple-/221234946545

http://derale.com/products/filtrati...s-and-manual-on-off-switch-with-wiring-detail

The Derale has the correct thread size. It's under $15 with free shipping from Summit. I'll look into it. I'm trying to build something - Thanks.

Update:
The below Derale kit looks promising...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DER-15725/

 

[swshawaii]

Specs for the kit. Appears ALL their relocation kits are 3/4-16 on the filter end.

http://derale.com/products/filtrati...s-18-heat-sink-transmission-cooler-kit-detail

 

[koda2000]

Specs for the kit. Appears ALL their relocation kits are 3/4-16 on the filter end.

http://derale.com/products/filtrati...s-18-heat-sink-transmission-cooler-kit-detail

Yes, but that's not an issue because I can use an FL1A SAE filter instead of the 820S metric filter.

 

[koda2000]

Ahhh, the below is the part I've been looking for for weeks. I guess I just wasn't using the right search criteria. With this piece I don't need to engineer my own pre-oiling connections. I can now assemble a relatively inexpensive pre-oiling system for my ST for around $200 complete and don't need to relocate my oil filter.

http://www.roushyatesparts.com/parts-p/can-22-569.htm

Thank David!

 

[koda2000]

Ahhh, the below is the part I've been looking for for weeks. I guess I just wasn't using the right search criteria. With this piece I don't need to engineer my own pre-oiling connections. I can now assemble a relatively inexpensive pre-oiling system for my ST for around $200 complete and don't need to relocate my oil filter.

http://www.roushyatesparts.com/parts-p/can-22-569.htm

Thank David!

Here's a less expensive one that looks like it might also work plus providing an easy place to install a real oil pressure gauge.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007SXL754...e=df0&creative=395105&creativeASIN=B007SXL754

Well I "chatted" with GlowShift tech support (I might as well have discussed my question with my 3 year old grandson) but they couldn't answer any of my questions, as to whether their unit could be used to connect a pre-oiler, so I guess I'll stick with the $75 Canton unit.

 

[01STrunner]

I feel like most people at glow shift just work there because they want color gauges in their civic. I hope the Canton system works out for you. Your post is the 1st I've seen about the pre-oiler and it sounds like a great way to extend the life of the timing chains.

 

[koda2000]

I feel like most people at glow shift just work there because they want color gauges in their civic. I hope the Canton system works out for you. Your post is the 1st I've seen about the pre-oiler and it sounds like a great way to extend the life of the timing chains.

I don't know if you read my post on what I've done as a temporary solution, but I added a toggle switch to turn off my fuel pump. I crank my engine for a few seconds with the fuel pump off before starting. This gets the oil into the tensioners and startups are dead quiet. I realize it's putting extra stress on the starter motor, but I find I don't even need to crank it until I see the oil pressure gauge come up. As little as 4-5 seconds is sufficient.

Once I've added the pre-oiler I'll run the electric pump using a momentary push-button switch mounted in the console before starting.

Here's a list of the parts I've sourced so far:

Approximate pre-oiler total cost - $200:
22mm-1.5 Sandwich adapter $75 (Note: If your engine uses the FL1A SAE filter you'll need an SAE sandwich adapter)
http://www.roushyatesparts.com/parts-p/can-22-569.htm

Amarine 12V gear transfer pump $80
http://www.amazon.com/Amarine-Made-Scavenge-Impellor-Diesel-Transfer/dp/B00KMI3XPY

Banjo bolt & washers $13 (replaces your oil drain plug)
http://www.a1racing.com/Metric_Banjo_Bolt_14_x_1.50mm.aspx
http://www.a1racing.com/14mm_Banjo_Washers.aspx

3/8" Banjo adapter $7 (to feed electric pump)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Banjo...ash=item464462ac8b:g:MFUAAOSw3xJVafaB&vxp=mtr

3/8" One-Way check valve $6 (to prevent engine pressure from running back through electric pump)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10mm-3-8-Al...ash=item1ea1560db2:g:2JsAAOSwpDdVLi17&vxp=mtr

Momentary switch $7 (to run pump prior to starting engine)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/16mm-12V-BL...ash=item1c5c6d54af:g:f~4AAOSw1vlUs0ac&vxp=mtr

Other/Miscellaneous: Wire, relay, 3/8" oil rated hose, hose clamps, 1/2" NPT to 3/8" NPT barbed fitting adapter

 

[2000StreetRod]

backflow prevention?

Some engines have check valves installed in the block where the oil filter adapter attaches to prevent backflow. I doubt there is a check valve in the 4.0L SOHC V6 block or the filter adapter. The description of the Canton 22-569 adapter did not mention a check valve. I wonder how much backflow there will be thru the oil pump gears. The intermediate shaft that drives the pump will prevent the gears from rotating but there is clearance between the pump gears and between the gears and the pump housing. Unless the oil pump is significantly worn, hopefully the backflow will be minor compared to the forward flow thru the filter. If the oil pressure switch activates the "gauge" then there is 5 psi or more which should be adequate.

Unfiltered oil backflowing to the pan should not be a contamination problem since the electric pump will be pulling oil from the pan. However, I would install a filter between the pan and the electric pump input to protect the pump.

 

[koda2000]

Some engines have check valves installed in the block where the oil filter adapter attaches to prevent backflow. I doubt there is a check valve in the 4.0L SOHC V6 block or the filter adapter. The description of the Canton 22-569 adapter did not mention a check valve. I wonder how much backflow there will be thru the oil pump gears. The intermediate shaft that drives the pump will prevent the gears from rotating but there is clearance between the pump gears and between the gears and the pump housing. Unless the oil pump is significantly worn, hopefully the backflow will be minor compared to the forward flow thru the filter. If the oil pressure switch activates the "gauge" then there is 5 psi or more which should be adequate.

Unfiltered oil backflowing to the pan should not be a contamination problem since the electric pump will be pulling oil from the pan. However, I would install a filter between the pan and the electric pump input to protect the pump.

I am installing a one-way check valve in the line from the pump, that should prevent any backflow through the pump when the engine is running, no?

3/8" One-Way check valve $6 (to prevent engine pressure from running back through electric pump)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10mm-3-8-Al...1560db2:g:2JsAAOSwpDdVLi17&vxp=mtr&rmvSB=true

I'm basically using the same pre-oiler setup as david4451. I've been talking to him and he reports no problems with his set up to-date.

 

[2000StreetRod]

remote filter adapter

I think david4451 is using a remote filter adapter with two ports (input and output). The Canton adapter has a single input port prior to the filter. Your check valve is to prevent back flow thru the electric pump when the engine is running. The back flow valve in the oil filter will not prevent oil from flowing to the engine oil pump using the Canton adapter.

 

[koda2000]

I think david4451 is using a remote filter adapter with two ports (input and output). The Canton adapter has a single input port prior to the filter. Your check valve is to prevent back flow thru the electric pump when the engine is running. The back flow valve in the oil filter will not prevent oil from flowing to the engine oil pump using the Canton adapter.

I see what you're saying, but I don't think that will be a problem. We'll see. Did you look at the GlowShift adapter? it' less money (about half the price on the Canton adapter). It has 3 ports, but I don't know if it will work as a pre-oiler connection and their tech support is useless. If you go to their web site they show better pictures of the adapter, but I think it might work more like a oil cooler adapter and you had told me that wouldn't work. It would be handy to install a real oil pressure gauge and/or a oil temp gauge though.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007SXL754...e=df0&creative=395105&creativeASIN=B007SXL754

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Oil-Filter-...ec09f07&pid=100033&rk=3&rkt=4&sd=131555790258

 

[01STrunner]

I don't know if you read my post on what I've done as a temporary solution, but I added a toggle switch to turn off my fuel pump.

Yup I sure did! I'm waiting to build up savings a little more so I can start doing PM projects on the Sport Trac. That list is helpful too!

 

[koda2000]

I see what you're saying, but I don't think that will be a problem. We'll see. Did you look at the GlowShift adapter? it' less money (about half the price on the Canton adapter). It has 3 ports, but I don't know if it will work as a pre-oiler connection and their tech support is useless. If you go to their web site they show better pictures of the adapter, but I think it might work more like a oil cooler adapter and you had told me that wouldn't work. It would be handy to install a real oil pressure gauge and/or a oil temp gauge though.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007SXL754...e=df0&creative=395105&creativeASIN=B007SXL754

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Oil-Filter-...ec09f07&pid=100033&rk=3&rkt=4&sd=131555790258

In the eBay ad (center photo) you can see that all 3 ports access the outside ring of the adapter.

 

[2000StreetRod]

filter flow & adapter types

Below is a fairly good diagram showing the various parts of a typical spin on engine oil filter. When the oil filter element is clogged the spring controlled bypass valve opens allowing oil to flow directly from the outside to the center end without passing thru the filter element.

The anti-drain valve keeps oil in the filter reducing the time it takes for the oil gallery to pressurize. I like to use vertical remote oil filter mounts to eliminate drain back if the valve sticks open, reduce the mess when changing the filter and to allow additional cooling.
Illustrated below is a filter and remote mount showing the flow thru the filter from outside coming from the mechanical pump to the center and going into the oil gallery.

There is no check valve in the filter except the anti-drain valve. If a sandwich adapter that fits between the block filter adapter and the filter has an external port that connects to the center then oil entering that port will be forced by the anti-drain valve to flow into the gallery.

The GlowShift adapter you linked to has 3 or 4 external ports (depending on what the description states and what the photo shows) that appear to be connected to the outer path.

These would work for oil temperature and pressure sensors prior to passing thru the filter element.

The Canton adapter you mentioned has only one port that also appears to be connected to the outer path.

According to Canton:
"Oil input sandwich adapters and oil cooler sandwich adapters are not interchangeable. Oil input sandwich adapters access oil flow as it passes to or from the filter and provide a port for installing items such as an external oil pump, or an Accusump. An oil input adapter will flow oil to the engine whether or not the oil ports are used. An oil cooler sandwich adapters diverts the oil flow and provide an in and out port for installing an oil cooler. The design of the oil cooler adapter requires the oil exiting the adapter to return back to the adapter, you cannot plug off a port in an oil cooler adapter."

I have not yet found an adapter suitable for what you are trying to do - mount the filter on the sandwich adapter and prevent backflow to the mechanical pump.