22mm remote oil filter adapter

[david4451]

Morning men, both those sandwich adapters will work, as input flow is to external part of filter. The Canton adapter is stronger than the Glow Shift, if over tightened the Glow Shift "could" break.

One thing I noticed is what is diameter of these adapters as this could make putting inlet from pump easy or difficult. If filter is below adapter and adapter diameter is smaller than filter, any 90 degree fitting will have to clear the filter.

My engineering plastic adapter is 4 inch(100mm) diameter and is slightly bigger than oil filter and using banjo bolt as 90 degree fitting cleared the filter. Space is limited and comming off adapter with a straight connector could be tricky.

 

[koda2000]

The Canton 22-569 adapter is listed as a: "UNIV SINGLE OIL INPUT ADAPTER 22mm-1.5"

I agree that both the Canton and GlowShift adapters seem to function in the same way (port-path wise).

Maybe I'm just being thick, but I don't understand why this wouldn't allow me to pump oil from my electric pump into the pre-filter port of either the Canton (or GlowShift) adapter. The outside of the filter (the small holes around the perimeter) is where the oil enters the filter and then, after passing through the filter media, then (assuming the filter is not clogged) the oil exits through the large center filter opening. Correct? I don't think enough pressure will backflow through the engines mechanical oil pump to make that much of a difference unless the pump gears are extremely worn. I don't know what path the oil takes inside the engine after exiting the filter, but I find the cranking my starter for as little as 4-5 seconds is enough to get enough oil into my hydraulic chain tensioners to allow for a chain-noise-free start and the oil pressure hasn't reached the oil pressure switch yet, as it takes approximately twice as long (9-10 seconds) for the needle oil the dummy pressure gauge to jump up.

Are you saying the pre-oiler should supply oil to the center port of the oil filter? That doesn't make sense to me. In talking to david4451, he told me he would have used the Canton 22-569 adapter. To quote an email I received from David this morning... "That adapter is what I'd have used if I had not made one".

I'll have to go back and review the photos David provided, but as I recall what he did was to have a long treaded, hollow extension pipe made to allow installation of his "engineered" filter adapter, which he also had made. There's only a single hose going from the electric pump to his adapter so I believe the adapter only had one input port and it feeds into a remote filter adapter, then presumably off to the remote mounted oil filter. David reports no problems with his setup after at least a month of use, so I'm expecting the same result.

Are you saying that because David is feeding a remote oil filter it's somehow different than an adapter mounted filter? If so, how?

You're very knowledgeable and I respect your opinion. Like I said, maybe it's just me being thick, but I'm having trouble understanding why my setup will not work, Whether I take oil from my oil drain plug using and electric pump, or let my engine's mechanical oil pump to take oil from my oil pan the oil still goes to the input side of my oil filter, passes through the filter and then into the engine's oil galleys. Right? What am I missing?

Edit:
I reviewed David's photos and he does only have a single port in his adaptor from his pump. I suppose his use of the 2 port remote filter adaptor could feed either side (input or output) of his remotely mounted filter but this doesn't make sense to me that he would do this. I will ask him if there is a reason that he used a remote filter.

 

[2000StreetRod]

I agree

I agree that either of those adapters will allow you to flow oil from your electric pump into your filter which will end up in the oil gallery minus the back flow thru the mechanical oil pump. As I posted earlier the backflow thru the mechanical pump would be small except for an excessively worn pump. In addition you'll need to add a check valve between the output of the electric pump and the adapter to prevent back flow thru the electric pump when the mechanical pump is operating. I think that 1/8 inch ports are adequate for pressure and temperature sensors but may be marginal for oil delivery from a low volume/low pressure electric pump. It may take more than a few seconds to pressurize the cassette pistons.

The ideal adapter for your situation would be one with a port to the center. That way the anti-drain valve in the filter would prevent back flow thru the filter and mechanical pump.

 

[koda2000]

I agree that either of those adapters will allow you to flow oil from your electric pump into your filter which will end up in the oil gallery minus the back flow thru the mechanical oil pump. As I posted earlier the backflow thru the mechanical pump would be small except for an excessively worn pump. In addition you'll need to add a check valve between the output of the electric pump and the adapter to prevent back flow thru the electric pump when the mechanical pump is operating. I think that 1/8 inch ports are adequate for pressure and temperature sensors but may be marginal for oil delivery from a low volume/low pressure electric pump. It may take more than a few seconds to pressurize the cassette pistons.

The ideal adapter for your situation would be one with a port to the center. That way the anti-drain valve in the filter would prevent back flow thru the filter and mechanical pump.

Ok, I understand that, but I'm having trouble trying to imagine what that adapter would look like. I'll have to ponder this a while. As far as the check valve on the pump feed line, I've said I will install a check valve. I've emailed David to ask if there was a particular reason he installed a remote oil filter in his setup. The Canton adaptor has a 1/2" port, which I was going to reduce to a 3/8" barbed fitting.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Canton 22-569

I went back and read the description for Canton 22-569 and now realize why you think it is probably what you need. The description states "This adapter provides one 1/2" N.P.T. oil input port before filtration." From the photo it looks like the external port lines up with the outer internal port and from a manufacturing perspective I suspect they are connected. The ideal adapter would have an external port that lines up with a hole in the side of the center threaded bushing. However, that would probably require a longer bushing (thicker adapter) so the threaded inserts wouldn't block the side hole.

 

[crankyjew]

Any update on this? I'm really interested in an inexpensive pre-oiling setup using off-the-shelf parts...

 

[koda2000]

No update to report just yet (holidays and all) but I have sourced all the bits and pieces I'll need. david4451 reports his setup is still working fine and the only real difference in mine is that I'm not planning on using a remote oil filter and will be using all off-the-shelf parts.

Basically the electric pump will be activated by a momentary switch on the console. The pump will draw oil from the oil pan's drain plug, supplying oil to the IN side of the pump. Then the pump pressurizes the engines oiling system, through it's OUT side, into an oil filter adapter to the IN side of the oil filter. There will be a check valve in the line going to the adapter to prevent oil from back-flowing into the electric pump once the pump is turned off and the engine started.

I'll get around to installing the system after the holidays, or in the spring, as I have a work-around for now (turning off the power to my fuel pump and spinning the starter for 5-6 seconds before starting. Crude and a little more wear on the starter, but it works. I find that I don't even have to wait until the oil pressure gauge pops up (10-11 seconds) before starting the engine and there's no flair or chain noise.

I'd posted most of the major components I'm planning on using in post #13 of this thread.

 

[2000StreetRod]

oil change?

For oil changes do you plan to just remove the banjo bolt?

 

[koda2000]

For oil changes do you plan to just remove the banjo bolt?

Probably. Haven't given it much thought yet, or I could remove the fitting at the filter adapter and turn the pump on. No matter how you change the filter on a SOHC, there's usually a mess to cleanup. The 5.0's not much better.

 

[2000StreetRod]

short length

I like the shorter length of using a banjo bolt and fitting vs a M14x1.5 adapter connected to a "T" with a plug on the end. Perhaps I could drill and tap the head of a banjo bolt and install a small plug for an oil drain.

The banjo bolt you posted a link to has a reduced diameter where the side ports are. I wonder if that increases flow compared to a standard one.

Even though there's no pressure I think I would purchase a bolt with shoulders for both sides of the adapter instead of threads on one side.

 

[koda2000]

I like the shorter length of using a banjo bolt and fitting vs a M14x1.5 adapter connected to a "T" with a plug on the end. Perhaps I could drill and tap the head of a banjo bolt and install a small plug for an oil drain.

The banjo bolt you posted a link to has a reduced diameter where the side ports are. I wonder if that increases flow compared to a standard one.
View attachment 87918
Even though there's no pressure I think I would purchase a bolt with shoulders for both sides of the adapter instead of threads on one side.

Yeah, that would be convenient. It would be a bit like the drain plug I installed in my trans pan, but the lower part would be a banjo fitting. I also like the idea of disconnecting the hose at the adapter and running the pump to empty the pan. I wonder if I could just put the hose into an empty plastic oil jug and let it rip? IDK the pressure may be so high I'd still make a mess.

As far as the banjo bolt ports being small, I guessing the small ports would increase pressure, but reduce flow. Kinda like a 5/8's garden hose vs a 1/2 hose. With the same water pressure the 1/2 hose would squirt further.

I'd prefer to use banjo bolts on both ends of feed hose, but I'm thinking the adapter's IN port is NPT where banjo bolts are standard thread. I suppose I could drill and tap a new hole in the adapter and plug the NPT hole.

I guess I wont know until I get started, but nothing seems insurmountable.

 

[2000StreetRod]

3/8 inch NPT

Most of the pumps I've seen have female 3/8" NPT ports. Barb fittings are a pain anytime a hose with them has to be disconnected/reconnected. Banjo fittings are just as easy as flare fittings to disconnect/reconnect and take less space for a right angle. Unfortunately, I can't recall ever seeing an NPT banjo bolt.

 

[koda2000]

Most of the pumps I've seen have female 3/8" NPT ports. Barb fittings are a pain anytime a hose with them has to be disconnected/reconnected. Banjo fittings are just as easy as flare fittings to disconnect/reconnect and take less space for a right angle. Unfortunately, I can't recall ever seeing an NPT banjo bolt.

I don't think an NPT banjo bolt exists. How would you tighten it? Drilling and tapping a new standard thread hole in the filter adapter is easy enough to do and would give a better hose fit angle.