I'm getting a lift next weekend and decided to get new wheels and tires all at once. I have a stock 92 explorer 4dr with a few mods. Do I need my wheel bearings changed when I get new wheels and larger tires. I'm running 30's with stock wheels and will be going to 32's I replaced the bearings about 2 yrs ago when I was hearing alot of highway humming. I do hear a little humming from the front tires when my truck bounces over bumps again. Could this mean a replacement?Will the 32's put more stress on my bearings...if so are there a heavy duty set out there?
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- Thread starter ScottXXL
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- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 1992 XLT 4x4
Scott,
You might as well replace the bearings... and Yes the larger tires/wheel combo puts more stress on them. Some people also have problems with the bearings staying tight. I just did the bearing last weekend and they were just starting to get loose (it has been about 6 months since I last checked them).
You mention you have a stock 92... 32"x11.50" tires won't fit on a stock 92. 31" tires is a maybe on some first generation explorers (depends on your springs and the factory tollerances). 32" tires are a tight fit with a 2.5" suspension lift. It fits on our with a little inner fender trimming (or removing the inner fenderwell
)
I use Tomken bearings and have had good luck with them. I do repack them after a good water crossing and it does help them last.. (it is amazing how much grease is removed by driving in deep water)
You might as well replace the bearings... and Yes the larger tires/wheel combo puts more stress on them. Some people also have problems with the bearings staying tight. I just did the bearing last weekend and they were just starting to get loose (it has been about 6 months since I last checked them).
You mention you have a stock 92... 32"x11.50" tires won't fit on a stock 92. 31" tires is a maybe on some first generation explorers (depends on your springs and the factory tollerances). 32" tires are a tight fit with a 2.5" suspension lift. It fits on our with a little inner fender trimming (or removing the inner fenderwell
)I use Tomken bearings and have had good luck with them. I do repack them after a good water crossing and it does help them last.. (it is amazing how much grease is removed by driving in deep water)
Thanks for the advice Mark. I forgot to mention that I'm getting a Superlift 5.5 with the wheels and tires. I'm having my 4x4 shop do the suspension, tires, wheels...should I have them put the bearings on or is it something I can do myself? Can I buy Tomken bearings at PepBoys or a auto store?How much?Just a pair for the front right?
- Joined
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If you haven't done bearings before.. the hardest part of the bearing job is problably either geasing the bearings.. or the inner seal (seal on the inner bearing)...
If you still have the auto hubs getting them back on is a pain (not complicated.. just need to get things aligned just right or it won't go on)..
We kept one of the auto hub nuts (the big nut) and once I have everything off we put the rotor back on.. screw on the big nut and then grab the rotor with 2 hands and yank it into the nut (so the bearing hits the nut).. I can normally get the bearing/seal on in 1 or two tries.. now you can pack the new bearings.. put the inner bearing in and put on the seal.. I suggest getting a bearing seal tool.. makes it very easy to put the seal back in.. you can use a piece of a 2x4 and a hammer to get it in there but the seal too is cleaner/easier..
I think I got the tomken bearins at Checker (Kragen) but it might have been Autozone or Pepboys.. (the last set I got from Merles Automotive in Tucson)
You might talk to the shop and see if they will let you watch them do the bearings if you don't feel up to doing it.. that way you have seen it done and can do it next time.. it is pretty easy once you have done it once..
it takes me <1 hour to do both sides (including lifting the truck and removing the tires.. with air tools)
If you still have the auto hubs getting them back on is a pain (not complicated.. just need to get things aligned just right or it won't go on)..
We kept one of the auto hub nuts (the big nut) and once I have everything off we put the rotor back on.. screw on the big nut and then grab the rotor with 2 hands and yank it into the nut (so the bearing hits the nut).. I can normally get the bearing/seal on in 1 or two tries.. now you can pack the new bearings.. put the inner bearing in and put on the seal.. I suggest getting a bearing seal tool.. makes it very easy to put the seal back in.. you can use a piece of a 2x4 and a hammer to get it in there but the seal too is cleaner/easier..
I think I got the tomken bearins at Checker (Kragen) but it might have been Autozone or Pepboys.. (the last set I got from Merles Automotive in Tucson)
You might talk to the shop and see if they will let you watch them do the bearings if you don't feel up to doing it.. that way you have seen it done and can do it next time.. it is pretty easy once you have done it once..
it takes me <1 hour to do both sides (including lifting the truck and removing the tires.. with air tools)
kvo
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- '00 XLT (SOHC)
Don't foget LOCKER(S)!!!
If you're getting new gears, this is the best time to install a locker in the rear for both to save on additional installation cost later on. Assuming you're going to use your 5.5" for serious wheeleing.
If you're getting new gears, this is the best time to install a locker in the rear for both to save on additional installation cost later on. Assuming you're going to use your 5.5" for serious wheeleing.
I haven't been serious in the past...but with my lift and tires I'll start taking my trails more often. I didn't even think about lockers. Thanks for the reminder. Detroit lockers are manual right? Or are they locked all the time?
kvo
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The Detroit Locker is automatic, just like every other lockers on the market, except ARB. Once installed, you have everything locked up in the rear, the operation is transparent. The only manual locker is the ARB, manual because you have a switch to activate and deactivate at your discretion.
A lot of hard core wheelers go with the Detroit because of proven durability and toughness. Others are also using the new True-Trac Gearless Locker (maker of the Detroit) or the new PowerTrax No-Slip Locker (maker of the LockRight). People go with the ARB because they can turn it on and off, especially if you put one in the front. Also the redesigned ARB is supposed to be better than the old one, the only draw back is cost.
A lot of hard core wheelers go with the Detroit because of proven durability and toughness. Others are also using the new True-Trac Gearless Locker (maker of the Detroit) or the new PowerTrax No-Slip Locker (maker of the LockRight). People go with the ARB because they can turn it on and off, especially if you put one in the front. Also the redesigned ARB is supposed to be better than the old one, the only draw back is cost.
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