.350ma draw on battery

[J_UMPER]

what could cause a .350 ma draw on battery from #8 fuse and #10 fuse under the hood fuses had it checked at the shop cause my battery would die after two days of sitting didnt get them to find the cause of it cause it would cost me 05 dollars an hour to figure out the problem dont really have that much money right now but the 8 is the battery saver and the 10 is the power seats power locks accy delay p/b p/s pl i have no ideas so any would deffiantly help

 

[hworksinc]

A 350 mA draw is not bad. It's a bit high - my truck draws about 200 mA - but it shouldn't cause your battery to die in 2 days. How old is the battery? Have you checked the fluid level in the battery (if it's not maintenance free)?

You should take the battery somewhere and have it tested.

(FYI your battery should have about a 60 Ah capacity - that means it can power a 350 mA load for well over 7 days before the Battery Saver Relay kicks in).

By the way, some punctuation/grammer/spellcheck would be greatly appreciated.

 

[manaen]

is .350ma or 350ma there is a big difference , and your math is a bit off (there is 1000 ma in 1 amp).

it would take about 170 days to kill the battery at 350ma (assuming 60Ah capacity)

and at .350ma it would take 170,000 days


have your battery load tested, sounds like you have a dying battery

 

[my98nnj]

.350ma is perfectly normal draw from the battery. Security system and stand by power to key electronic components is always pulling a very small amout from the battery. If indeed it's .350ma I'd be suprised, more likely 350ma and like manaen said, at that rate it would take 1/2 a year to draw the battery down.

You most likely have a bad batery. It may measure 12 volts, but if a cell or two are dying it will no longer hold a charge and could actually discharge itself over time.

 

[hworksinc]

0.350 mA = 0.000350 A - that's just crazy low for any car made in the last 20 years (an LED draws about 20 mA).

350 mA = 0.350 A is more reasonable (I assumed that was the value).

BTW...

60 Ah / 0.350 A = 170 hours = 7 days

60 Ah / 0.000350 A = 171,000 hours = 19 years

In my experience, it takes longer than 7 days for the battery save relay to kick in - it took about a month for the relay to shut off when my truck was sitting last summer. The keyless entry didn't work, lost radio presets, etc. but it started with minimal effort.

 

[BobWiersema]

In my experience, it takes longer than 7 days for the battery save relay to kick in - it took about a month for the relay to shut off when my truck was sitting last summer. The keyless entry didn't work, lost radio presets, etc. but it started with minimal effort.

For what its worth, on my 98 the battery saver feature stopped working when the battery went bad. It still had just enough power to start the truck but if you left a door open the interior lights would kill the battery. I think that battery saver feature just stops working if the battery is weak. After I replaced the battery it went back to normal. Interior lights turn off after 45 min.

 

[J_UMPER]

when i took the truck in they tested the battery and he said it was fine charging system is fine and the starter was always fine cant check the water levels but it is a new battery no more then 7 months old i do have a car alarm installed done myself and the shop guy did say it was .350 ma its kinda a ***** cause it is dieing in two days just under i was actually say a day and half. no lights are left on and i know my sound system is shutting down properly no amps left on or anything like that so its hard for me to judge thats y it went to shop i mean it was only thirty dollars to have it tested but he said it was fine but the only thing was that draw and the mechanic said that the .350ma draw more then likely is what is killing the battery

 

[manaen]

BTW...

60 Ah / 0.350 A = 170 hours = 7 days

60 Ah / 0.000350 A = 171,000 hours = 19 years

DOH!!! I apologize... you where right... When I ran the numbers 7 days seemed really quick for such a small load and I forgot to divide the hours into days geesh...

It's been one of those days

 

[budwich]

although you indicated what the fuse components were on those fuse for your vehicle year, you didn't indicate what fuses the "things" that you "added" were fused at. I would start removing those items (not using the "on/off" switches but physically disconnecting them) from the "power grid" and see if your problem goes away. Next pull some relays and see if they have any affect on the draws... things like relay coil windings can cause excessive draws IF the windings are "old"... or the relay is stuck on allowing the "make" contacts to still function.

 

[my98nnj]

mechanic said that the .350ma draw more then likely is what is killing the battery

Seems your mechanic doesn't have a backround in electronics. :thumbdwn:
You've seen the math done on here, that's not what's killing your battery.