37's under a 92 with stock axles

[4x4hauler]

Thats my new(to me) 1992 Explorer Xlt 4x4. This is my 2nd 1st gen in a year. And 3rd owning in my life. I had a All Camo 93 w/ 6" skyjacker lift on 35's. Sold that when i moved. After i got settled down i bought another 93 all stock. But after my tranny blowing in my 2nd gen, i had to sell that because i was low on cash. Well now i started a new job and own a 92 explorer i just bought. My plan for this truck is big.

The Parts List
-6"skyjacker class 2 lift, w/ 8" coils, soa, 1"block 1 1/4" shackles
-2" pa body lift(grand total of 9-10" of lift after springs settle)
-customized supperunner steering, xtreme drop pitman arm
-sway bars w/ custom endlinks and quick disconnects
-37x13.50r15or17 baja claws
-4.88 gears rear locker
-jeep hubs

i already installed my kkm intake, bbk throttle body, and its going to the exhaust shop wednesday

Heres the questions i have though, for whatever reason Pa's tire laws are strict. Alot more strict then NC. But here i have to keep the tire in the fender. Now i just dont want them stickin out more then 2-3". i need a 15x10 or 17x10" wheel but what backspacing would i need?

I never had any problems with by dana 35 and my 35x12.5's, and it was stock(stock hubs, stock gears) soo i think just a hub and brake upgrade, also replacing the wheelbearings before i install my 37's. And the fact this truck wont see any hardcore trails. Thats what i have my jeep for. Itll see shows, and minor trails to get me to my hunting cabin in upstate ny

anyone have any input?

 

[Mud Bug 94]

the weakes link is gunna be all thos U-Joints in the front...(5)...the rear axle and such should have no problem handlin it...its the TTB that I would Worry about.

 

[Mud Bug 94]

IMHO, put a solid dana 44 in the front...

 

[4x4hauler]

i will also be doin a u-joint upgrade
seen here
http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/May06/dana35_ujoint_snapring.htm

 

[Mud Bug 94]

back spacing should be around 2.75-3.75 inches.

 

[4x4hauler]

So if i get some with 3" backspacing my tires wont stick out more then 2.5 inches? remember these tires are 13.5" wide. Oh and another questions, i get great deals on 15x8" wheels and i hear narrower wheels are better for the d35. soo you think i could get 37x13.5r15 claws to mount on 15x8" steelies?

 

[Mud Bug 94]

35x15.50x15...on stock 15x7's

 

[EMG7895]

Its probably going to eat wheel bearings and ball joints, but on the street it shouldnt be too bad.

 

[FROADER]

You're going to bust hubs too. Make sure you have spares.

 

[Mud Bug 94]

actually if he does stock B/S it wont....

 

[sn0border88]

your steering is going to suck. theres a reason they dont make (or make many) 8 " lifts for explorers. And the superrunners come with a huge warning DO NOT USE WITH LIFTS IN EXCESS OF 6 INCHES. Im sure there is a reason for that.... dont put others and yourself at risk, keep it to a 5.5" lift and throw in a body lift and trim the fenders a bunch and you might be able to shove those tires in there. You can get universal fit fender flares that extend from 1 to 4.5" depending on what you order to keep the police happy

 

[4x4hauler]

the only reason the superunner kit is for 4-6" is because the swingarm only has a 4" drop, to go with the 4" drop pitman arm. Im adding 2" on to the swingarm and using a extreme drop pitman arm(6" drop)

i do have a jeep d30 sitting behind the shed, i might have to swap that in instead. D30's are better on wheel bearings right?

Most of its wheelin it will see will be MUD, and lots of it. But will my d35 be to much of a plow? would the d30 be better? i know either one can be built to be strong enough to handle 37" boggers

 

[sn0border88]

the only reason the superunner kit is for 4-6" is because the swingarm only has a 4" drop, to go with the 4" drop pitman arm. Im adding 2" on to the swingarm and using a extreme drop pitman arm(6" drop)

Well, when you do that make sure to send me a pic so I can add it here... http://128.83.80.200/taco/scarysteering10.html
But hopefully your cobbled together concotion will fail before you geton the road and hurt someone.

Most of its wheelin it will see will be MUD, and lots of it. But will my d35 be to much of a plow? would the d30 be better? i know either one can be built to be strong enough to handle 37" boggers

Oh really? And how do you know this? Ask around on some of the boards maybe Pirate4x4 would be a good place. See if they "know" the same thing over there. I somehow dont know the same thing. I even shy away from running 38's without superior or alloy shafts and joints in my D44.

 

[4x4hauler]

lol! for one, how will it cobble, i shouldnt of really said adding 2" more like making a whole new one with 2" added to the new swingarm, seems pretty safe to me? pirate4x4 is a joke,


snoborder88 i love your front shackle setup , so stfu i mean your sas setup isnt even street ready. so where do you think you can tell me what is going to fail on my rig?

I built enough rigs and fab'd up enough **** to know some common sense

 

[sn0border88]

its not street ready because I dont want it street ready. It was built with no intent of ever being street driven. Nice one. But what does that have to do with me commenting on the d30 setup? Ok fine, throw some 37" boggers behind the 30 and thrash them in the mud for a while.

And is there something wrong with shackle foreward?

 

[IZwack]

Guys lets turn down the heat a little hmmkay?

You guys are more than welcomed to discuss whether or not a specific design, concept or whatever "works" -- but lets be civilized about it, especially the language.

 

[91xon35s]

are you kidding me, have you seen snoborders rig, it flexs like crazy, every thing works exactly the way he wants it to , i am with him 100% on this, i would love to see a d30 or the stock ttb on the sploder last with 37s, i am runnin 35s and go throw u-joints like crazy, and i blow hubs out all time, and i mean i am hard on my vehicle but im not stupid with it and it still always breaks ****, if you were gonna go threw the hassle of swaping in a d30 you minus well just sprout a little money and buy a dana 44, even if it doesnt have lockers or anything at least you wont break as much stuff, cause the cost of the dana 44 will be surpassed with the cost of blown hubs and u-joints after a few wheeling trips

 

[RockRanger]

And is there something wrong with shackle foreward?

Didn't you get the memo that shackle forward was not allowed. See it never has worked that is why jeep only did it for 50 years. Forget the fact that shackle forward fits the frame setup much better and doesnt leave you with a boat anchor behind the wheel. You need to go back and see if you have that memo.

For whats its worth I have more money in my steering then I do in gears and lockers. Toss in all the new brake hardware I added and thats more then I payed for the dana 44. It will drive 75 down the freeway and tracks fine. Two areas to not skip on are brakes and steering.

 

[wanderer351]

lol! for one, how will it cobble, i shouldnt of really said adding 2" more like making a whole new one with 2" added to the new swingarm, seems pretty safe to me? pirate4x4 is a joke,

it MIGHT just work too..I never thought about doing it..but if its built right and the linkages are all set correctly it should work as well as the superrunner..however the way the bottom of the tire tucks when the suspension unloads tends to make them unstable and undercut the tire causing the vehicles to be unstable..added height just adds to that..hence the reason people go to the solid axles..

theres good info on pirate...once ya weed through all the crap..

snoborder88 i love your front shackle setup , so stfu i mean your sas setup isnt even street ready. so where do you think you can tell me what is going to fail on my rig?

nice attitude..

I built enough rigs and fab'd up enough **** to know some common sense

that may be true...but some info ya might not have seen before..

however...a d30 is not comparable to a ttb35 in strenght..maybe a ttb28..but not a 35...a well built 30 can handle 34's and abuse before it dies..a well built 35 can handle 35/36's before it dies...

you have to look at u-joint size and axle shaft size..IIRC (if I recall correctly) the 30 uses smaller sized shafts and smaller U-joints than the 35...the 35 uses smaller shafts but the SAME size joints as a D44 (ttb or solid...) so the weakness ends up in the hubs and neckdown points of the shafts...

good 297 (5-760 spicer) u-joints that are full circile clipped inside and tack welded to the shaft side of the yokes make the 35 AND 44 stronger than stock..(doing that to any axle makes it stronger..and to change the shafts just lightly grind the tacks off..easy modd..keeps from egg'ing the shaft ears out and spiting the joints caps out..causing it to twist and destroy the ends of the shafts)

the 35 is a PLOW..a buddy had a 28 and 33's...I had a 35 and 35's..I would plow stuff that he could just clear..the 30 is smaller as well..but a shaved 44 is even nicer..


get some pix of the supper runner modification...I know a few guys over on www.therangerstation.com that have show trucks would LOVE to get ahold of something like that...(makes their rigs more stable to drive daily..)

 

[Mud Bug 94]

is it just me or does this guy not know his axle numbers?