I wasn't debating, and no harm at all or offense taken. I do state often that cams are far more important than people think. I state it because I know that it's true.
The only engines which should ever get an OTS cam are bone stock engines, thus a cam with a part number. Any change from stock throws airflow figures far out of norm, and OTS cams are made simply to make money.
OTS cams are all built as compromises, mainly in that the steel is cast, weak, and cannot take the higher spring pressures that a custom billet cam can. The valvetrain is far less stable with OTS cams and weaker springs and the weaker steel of the cam. Above 4500-5000rpm's all SADI cams(cast steel) begin to not spin true, which affects the whole valvetrain.
Almost all engine failures which include valvetrain damage, they begin from valvetrain issues. Too much spring pressure, not enough, too little lash, too much, springs not compressed enough, or too close to binding, cheap valve seats, etc, etc.
Tons of things in the valvetrain can kill an engine. Bone stock engines have been engineered with specific parts to last a long time, but not for the most power. A billet cam allows much more duration and lift, with a stronger spring, to obtain much more power at every single rpm point.
These are not guesses or IMO like you read on the Corral and dozens of sites. These are facts which happen to be very uncommon, too many people have been wrongly taught. People think that any engine which doesn't blow up, must be great, it has the perfect set of parts already, or very close. The truth is that very very few engines(non stock) which do run for years are anywhere near close to optimum.
The best possible power starts with a billet cam, designed for a specific head, specific intake etc, with specific valve springs, and properly set up. That is a lot of things to get right, and has nothing to do with bolting an engine together. If you think about it for a second, you should realize that most of this work is done before any parts are bought. You make the complete list, buy the parts, machine work, then slowly assemble the engine. Assembly includes many mock up steps, installing parts and removing them again for further work. Most of that is for the valvetrain and intake.
All of this is the difference between a 227HP engine and a 350HP engine. My 347 engine is going to be down on measured power due to the small intake, TB, and exhaust. I know that ahead of time, but my heads, cam, and shortblock are excellent as is. With better intake etc, stuck in a Mustang, this is a 400RWHP 347. There are dyno sheets to see of combinations like that. The key is the cam, heads, intake, and valvetrain. Try a custom cam some time, stop "saving" money(wasting HP).
art #231316 377 4.000 bore 3.750 5.700 rod 1.425 compression height should yield 9.3 or so comp. w/68cc heads -16cc inverted dome 449 gr. weight ring # J100F8-4000-5
I do really good going in a straight line, it was just my 3 trip around that corner that gave me a bit of trouble.
