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4.0 SOHC Performance Motor Build

Don isn't saying that EVERYTHING has to be custom. Just the brainchild behind the whole engine itself. The Camshaft.

You can buy OTS heads, rods, pistons....everything......BUT to make it ALL work properly, and to get the MOST reliability out of it you SHOULD get a custom cam.

In Don case, he spent about $100 more for a CUSTOM cam that was higher quality, and FAR more accurate in it's advertised events. Guys will spend THOUSANDS of dollars on parts for their motor, and toss in an OTS cam, and then proceed to beat themselves over the head for months on end as to why it's not making the power it should.

Ryan
 



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Very well said, these are not $500 motors any longer. The whole cost is not $500-$1000. You are spending $3000 without trouble, and $4000 and more if done right.

Why spend $3000-$4000 and assume that your choice of cam is worth using because it saves $100 or so? The power difference can easily be 75HP, that's expensive HP to waste.
 






Point taken, if the time ever comes to when I decide to do a cam(cams for me) swap, I'll be sure to give you a shout on your opinion. I know OTS cams are not as good as a custom cam, but I guess it depends on the intended application because sometimes an OTS cam is doable.

So custom for winners and OTS for weiners:)
 






CDW6212R - I'm interested in your build-up. Do you have it documented in here somewhere?
 






Hopefully Alex will be an excellent example of an Explorer, to show two different combinations. He is changing the whole engine, and blower, but really it's the head/blower/cam flow potential which he is greatly improving. If you look past the other new parts, concentrate on those three, he is going to be much quicker.

Jake, my engine is a complete longblock from FordStrokers, the heads, cam and rockers came from Camshaft Innovations. I paid to have it assembled completely, so the important cam and valvetrain should be done right. The shortblock was the $1900 version with upgraded "H" rods and forged crank. I paid them for the head gaskets, ARP bolts, flexplate, and pushrods. After the fact I would have skipped the $450 rods/crank, and paid for a Mexican block and link bar lifters. The cost is the same, and the block is the weakest link.

Mine is built for the truck, so I kept the GT40 intake for now with plans to change soon to a blower and different intake. For anyone else doing a 302 stroker, normally aspirated, do not use the common long runner intakes. They are way too restrictive for these engines. The TFS "R" intake is excellent for EFI use, the box top version likely is best for a blower. That's the lower I'm going to get later.
 






Sounds like you'll be making some good power with that combo. The piping for the turbo is really not as bad as you think. You could run the intake pipe back under the hood depending on where you mount the turbo.
 






Well I'd be satisfied with it right where yours and James is, under the right seat. But it looks really tight just for the turbo pipe going forward. There's only so much room around the frame and the right wheel well.
 






Yeah, it's tight but If you study the location long enough, it will fit. I wish I would have taken a little more time with mine. Study Mounty's build cuss I think he was on the right track with the mounting. If you do decide to go this route, let me know. I've learned a bunch from doing this and will give you advice on where I feel I went wrong - no reason for you to make the mistakes I made.
 






Thanks, I'll be pondering all along.

I priced some paint today for my cars, ouch red is expensive. The cheap stuff is $200 per gallon, and the top base is $628 per gallon. I bought clear only from Alsa where I got a candy additive. I need to get done what I started long ago. Night,
 






Hopefully Alex will be an excellent example of an Explorer, to show two different combinations. He is changing the whole engine, and blower, but really it's the head/blower/cam flow potential which he is greatly improving. If you look past the other new parts, concentrate on those three, he is going to be much quicker.

Jake, my engine is a complete longblock from FordStrokers, the heads, cam and rockers came from Camshaft Innovations. I paid to have it assembled completely, so the important cam and valvetrain should be done right. The shortblock was the $1900 version with upgraded "H" rods and forged crank. I paid them for the head gaskets, ARP bolts, flexplate, and pushrods. After the fact I would have skipped the $450 rods/crank, and paid for a Mexican block and link bar lifters. The cost is the same, and the block is the weakest link.

Mine is built for the truck, so I kept the GT40 intake for now with plans to change soon to a blower and different intake. For anyone else doing a 302 stroker, normally aspirated, do not use the common long runner intakes. They are way too restrictive for these engines. The TFS "R" intake is excellent for EFI use, the box top version likely is best for a blower. That's the lower I'm going to get later.

I have great hopes of redoing my entire setup this winter and switching to an A/W intercooler. To make more room under the hood, I am going with a spider type intake. This way I can have my intercooler core right on top of the valve cover.
 

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I like the looks of that intake, Justin. Never thought about adapting a carb'd intake.
 






Justin, consider this also, the intercooler is lower and in the center. For a turbo it's easy to mount it this way. The TFS "R" intake is the best non carb style there is, and not much behind the big Victor Jr, and similar big intakes. The lower intake and adapter are the easy parts. The intercooler and upper plenum need the fabrication for the vehicle.
 

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This is what we're looking at if opening up the bore to 4.00"

Stock - New
CID 243.74 - 249.57
Liters 4.0 - 4.1
Rod Ratio 1.74 - 1.77
 






Just a question, is using a 4.2 V6 from the F150 or even the Windstar an option? The boss has one in his truck and with the 5-speed, it runs pretty good. I thought I have read of guys using the crank in their 3.8's but I am not sure if the 4.0 is in the same family. Just a thought.
 






anymore research jake, kinda been busy i know.
 






3.8 based engines are totally different, they have a more common small block bellhousing. I also think that are considerably larger than the 4.0 as well.
 






Nope - been up on the roof trying to tack shingles on straight.
 






Get a coil nailer and speed it up!!! What kind of shingles are you using? The Timberline style or the 3-tab kind?
 






Yes, I've got a coil nailer. The shingles are the 30 year architectural style? (not 3 tabs)
 



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Sounds pretty:) If I was closer I'd lend you a hand because carpenter work is my thing.

Just to ask, have you ever taken any good pics of the sport with the new wheels? I only saw a rear wheel pic I think.
 






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