2000StreetRod
Moderator Emeritus
- Joined
- May 26, 2009
- Messages
- 10,597
- Reaction score
- 334
- City, State
- Greenville, SC
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 00 Sport FI, 03 Ltd V8
Last month my 2003 Centennial (Limited) with stock 4.6L V8 starting stalling when I released the accelerator. Since I have no past maintenance records on the vehicle I decided to replace the spark plugs. The old plugs looked good (no signs of detonation or fouling) other than having an excessive gap due to wear. I gapped and installed a new set of Motorcraft SP-493 AGSF32PM platinum plugs. That didn't fix the problem which has gotten worse. The engine runs fine at 800 rpm if I keep the accelerator slightly depressed and doesn't miss when accelerating. It acts like there's no idle air control (IAC) valve function.
I removed the IAC valve and cleaned the internals with throttle body cleaner. I can move the valve shaft with a flat blade screwdriver. When I remove the screwdriver the spring returns the shaft to the original position. I can blow thru the valve, its connecting hose, and the associated main intake hose port and intake manifold port. There are no IAC valve related diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs). I didn't check the power source fuse because the same fuse provides power to the injectors that are working.
Our 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee is at the dealer for the next few days awaiting arrival and replacement of a failed driver seat air bag wiring harness. So this afternoon I adjusted the Explorer throttle stop screw for the warm engine to run at about 700 rpm with the accelerator released. I measured the resistance of the IAC valve solenoid to be about 10 ohms which is comparable to a Mustang valve I have that is too long to fit in the space available. Tomorrow I'll try energizing the solenoid with my battery tender to see if the shaft moves. I'll check the mating connector electrical path to the PCM and Battery Junction Box. I'll also leave the connector disconnected to see if that triggers an IAC valve related DTC. I'm rapidly running out of diagnostic ideas.
I removed the IAC valve and cleaned the internals with throttle body cleaner. I can move the valve shaft with a flat blade screwdriver. When I remove the screwdriver the spring returns the shaft to the original position. I can blow thru the valve, its connecting hose, and the associated main intake hose port and intake manifold port. There are no IAC valve related diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs). I didn't check the power source fuse because the same fuse provides power to the injectors that are working.
Our 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee is at the dealer for the next few days awaiting arrival and replacement of a failed driver seat air bag wiring harness. So this afternoon I adjusted the Explorer throttle stop screw for the warm engine to run at about 700 rpm with the accelerator released. I measured the resistance of the IAC valve solenoid to be about 10 ohms which is comparable to a Mustang valve I have that is too long to fit in the space available. Tomorrow I'll try energizing the solenoid with my battery tender to see if the shaft moves. I'll check the mating connector electrical path to the PCM and Battery Junction Box. I'll also leave the connector disconnected to see if that triggers an IAC valve related DTC. I'm rapidly running out of diagnostic ideas.