410Custom's builds a 2007 Ranger V8 - custom truck build - Project "Ranger Premier"

[JoshT]

Whoo! The thread is alive again.

Well, I guess it never really died, but for some reason I didn't get any email notifications after my last check in, which was not long after James came home, so almost a year ago. Glad the matrix finally decided to let me know there was new activity the other day.

Envious of the shop space!

Looks like you're getting close to the part I'm really interested in. All of it is interesting, but the engine stuff is something that might be able to cross over into my own build.

 

[JoshT]

Are you aiming to leave the rear brakes stock? If so there is a minor upgrade that can be done, but more easily when you have the whole back end apart. You may have read me suggest it before elsewhere, the 2003-06 Crown Vic, TC, and GM have a slightly bigger 12" vented rear disc. Those use a different type of parking brake cable attachment, it goes in perpendicular, and has a tab on the rear to hold the cable. So the swap would be to drill the backing plate holes to rotate it 90*(to get the cable where it can fit on the side), and weld a small tab on the housing to hold the cable, plus adapting the cables to the vehicles front cables.

Got a link to more info on this? My project (80s 2wd) is getting 13" cobra brakes in front. 12" vented discs in rear would be a nice match. I've got to do some cutting.and welding anyway, what's a little more?

 

[MakinJeepsWeep!]

I wish yall didnt live so far away we could have a v8 ranger party haha

 

[CDW6212R]

Got a link to more info on this? My project (80s 2wd) is getting 13" cobra brakes in front. 12" vented discs in rear would be a nice match. I've got to do some cutting.and welding anyway, what's a little more?

The rear brakes from a 2003 to 2011 Crown Vic, Town Car, and Grand Marquis, all are the same, with vented rotors unlike the Cobra rear brakes. They also have 1.9" caliper pistons, which is much bigger than the Cobra rears, but just a hair larger than the typical Explorer rears(1.8" for the 2nd gens). So they are it would seem a good match for the typical Ford trucks.

If you want bigger brakes, then those would be a good place to start instead of the rare Cobra parts. I have a set of those but haven't had time to put them on one of my Explorers yet. I suggest getting a set of those and trying to fit them to your truck. The calipers will have to be located with the bleed screws up, so depending on the type of rear suspension, it should be possible. The parking brake cable is a separate issue, it requires a tiny bracket mounted on the rear housing to hold the cable, so it runs straight into the back of the brake mounting plate. That's the only thing to weld, the tiny brackets on each side, I'd cut that off of the donor car and measure the distance it is from the mounting plate.

 

[JoshT]

The rear brakes from a 2003 to 2011 Crown Vic, Town Car, and Grand Marquis, all are the same, with vented rotors unlike the Cobra rear brakes. They also have 1.9" caliper pistons, which is much bigger than the Cobra rears, but just a hair larger than the typical Explorer rears(1.8" for the 2nd gens). So they are it would seem a good match for the typical Ford trucks.

If you want bigger brakes then those would be a good place to start instead of the rare Cobra parts. I have a set of those but haven't had time to put them on one of my Explorers yet. I suggest getting a set of those and trying to fit them to your truck. The calipers will have to be located with the bleed screws up, so depending on the type of rear suspension, it should be possible. The parking brake cable is a separate issue, it requires a tiny bracket mounted on the rear housing to hold the cable, so it runs straight into the back of the brake mounting plate. That's the only thing to weld, the tiny brackets on each side, I'd cut that off of the donor car and measure the distance it is from the mounting plate.

Thank you for the quick reply.

Just Cobra (03-04 Mach 1 technically, but same thing) front brakes. I've got the Explorer rear brakes now, stuck the whole Explorer rear end under there. Probably don't need bigger than that in the rear, but I can't help but think bigger would look better, even if it is only an inch. Won't know if I need anything until I get it drivable which is a long ways off still.

Just first I've heard about using those and was wondering if there was a thread or write up about it somewhere.

 

[CDW6212R]

Nobo

Thank you for the quick reply.

Just Cobra (03-04 Mach 1 technically, but same thing) front brakes. I've got the Explorer rear brakes now, stuck the whole Explorer rear end under there. Probably don't need bigger than that in the rear, but I can't help but think bigger would look better, even if it is only an inch. Won't know if I need anything until I get it drivable which is a long ways off still.

Just first I've heard about using those and was wondering if there was a thread or write up about it somewhere.

Nobody had done it yet but likely because it isn't a fast and simple swap to do. I got the parts because I wanted them on my 91 Mark VII, but those have a different suspension type, and the brakes cannot be located where the parking brake cable could go in properly. But they can go on the Explorer rears up to at least 2001, and the later Rangers of course.

 

[Josh P]

Thank you for the quick reply.

Just Cobra (03-04 Mach 1 technically, but same thing) front brakes. I've got the Explorer rear brakes now, stuck the whole Explorer rear end under there. Probably don't need bigger than that in the rear, but I can't help but think bigger would look better, even if it is only an inch. Won't know if I need anything until I get it drivable which is a long ways off still.

Just first I've heard about using those and was wondering if there was a thread or write up about it somewhere.

I did the cobra rear disc brake swap on my van. It was a massive improvement over the drum brakes.

 

[410Fortune]

speaking of improvements ..........

Have some time to do an update!!!

Rear suspension is in place, all spring hangers, springs, rear axle
I am waiting for parts, spring perches U bolts spring plates, etc
Long story on that stuff, usually I have explorer spring plates lying around and have U bolts made up in town on the cheap while I wait
Then I plasma torch the old spring perches and shock mounts from the donor ranger axle.
Well this time none of that worked out! Much of my stuff is buried in the snow, U bolt guy was not available the day I went to town, I could only find one 8.8 spring plate for 31 spline??? and I only have one ranger shock mount! Ha the others still under 3' of snow!!!

So after all of that..... online I go, by the time you get U bolts, spring plates and shock mounts you could easily just get the Rf stuffd 8.8 kit......so I ordered the parts from Ruff Stuff, $200 delivered with added 10 degree shock mounts(factory style but beefy), regular shock tabs (gives us options), new U bolts and spring plates.
So while I wait for those I am finishing building the front suspension/brakes in an effort to:
Get her rolling
See the lift height/ control arm angles (so I can make any adjustments to rear suspension, ie block/shackle)
Can cycle rear suspension and choose best location for new rear shocks (while staying under the bed)
Test fit wheels and tires
Rolling truck with brakes!!! Can move her into bay one and get going on seat install and drivetrain wiring/plumbing/ Holley setup

BW 4406e transfer case has been prepped for install
I have exhaust parts I need to start fab on that
It looks like with the chevy 1500 springs, Kartek 1.5" drop rear spring hangers, and a factory ranger lift blocks and shackles (inverted) she is sitting at about 5-6" of lift! Perfect!! I like what I see so far, I cant wait to stuff and droop the rear suspension
Likely need limit straps depending on what we decide on rear shocks

Lets get to the pics!

Rear suspension mock up and axle install

out with the old

centered in wheel well

Kartek 1.5" drop hanger / shackle reversal. Set in frame rearmost holes.
Factory Ranger shackle now goes up!
Chevy 1500 springs, we kept the overload based on trucks intended use. These are the 1500 psi spring rate leaf springs 64" (04, 4x4, 4.8L, standard cab short bed silverado). You can get new chevy 64's in several spring rates. 1500 psi should be PERFECT for a lifted 4x4 ranger with heavy load and sometimes a trailer. The rear shackle and leaf setup should improve the ride and feel on the road over the factory setup, off road we should gain massive amounts of wheel travel keeping the rear tires planted so the new ARB locker can do its job: TRACTION!!!!

Remember this is mock up, once all final welding is done and all holes are drilled in frame then everything will get cleaned and painted

 

[410Fortune]

Drivers side start to finish

First thing we have to cut all 6 of the factory rivets holding the front and rear leaf spring hangers to the frame

4 rivets on the front spring hanger, 2 rivets on the back shackle hanger

front hanger removed

rivets then ground flush to the frame rails and punched out the backside with pneumatic chissel/punch

Now we can locate the front hanger, the factory spring hanger is moved forward, the rear of the hanger now mounts in the forwardmost two holes on the frame

How do you get bolts in there on the drivers side with fuel tank in place? You may ask
With fancy tools of course!! I love this thing

turns out the holes on the frame have slightly different spacing then the bracket! No problem with a center punch and stepped drill bit

Now we can bolt hanger to frame using two holes to check our spring/axle placement

Time to mount the rear Kartek hanger, to use the 64" springs we need this thing mounted way back!
Similar to the front, the rear holes in the frame now become the front bolts for the hanger
These clips have to be removed as the trick kartek bits also use the factory bumper bracket bolt holes for even more strength

that's better

4 bolts on rear shackle hanger for now (mock up)

 

[410Fortune]

Now bolt factory shackle to new 64" leaf spring and raise/wiggle/force it into position

Not easy! oh yeah I had to reset rear jack stands again!!! to clear new spring....fun fun lol

Look Ma!! Finally............two springs!!
Get your axle on!!!

So now while we wait for parts we can do the final install the front differential and suspension oooooh la la!!

FRONT SUSPENSION!!

Front diff with its new 4.56 Yukon gearset, bearings and seals. Shown with Superlift drop bracket in place

Yes I know there is no oil in the diff, you are not dealing with a rookie here

Now since we bought a used Superlift there were a few bits missing, like bushings for this bracket!!

Luckily this is a Ford Ranger shop and I have buckets of bushings and parts. These two gems actually come from my own Bronco II!! Back in the day (like 2001?) I actually still had a sway bar, these energy urethane bushings were in that sway bar for a summer or so before it went in the trash....good thing I kept the bushings!!
Had to cut a new piece of stock at the proper height for the superlift bracket

Perfect! Little bit of my BII in every truck I build one way or the other

After that I was able to raise the front diff into position using my transmission jack and got her all bolted up
Then I removed all of the front suspension (control arms and shocks) because it is time for FINAL paint before install

Nice satin black finish! frame rails are scuffed, cleaned, prep wiped and rattle canned both sides and behind front bumper

"Ace" our 2 year old Collie shop dog is always under foot, she makes it into so many pictures!! That's my girl!! Good shop dog

While painting is happening the F150 BW 4406 Electronic shift t case was prepped for install

First in order to properly remove the F150 shift motor we have to deal with the brown wire as it is permanently wired into the tailhousing

I un pin it from the connector, no wires cut

All of these "ears" and "tabs" need to go when stuffing the large 4406 under a ranger I like to remove these bits and file them smooth, this makes more clearance under the truck which you will appreciate when you have to work under/around a 5.0 ranger

Transfer case brushed clean, gasket surface prepped, "ears" shaved, she is ready to be hoisted into the truck

 

[410Fortune]

I need two pieces from a factory 5.0 explorer exhaust to start our new system from the Torque Monsters back so I dug these out from storage

These are the 96-97.5 "welded" factory 5.0 manifolds.......
YIKES

These suckers are choking how much power a 5.0 Explorer can make. In the 98-01 5.0 trucks ford cast a slightly better piece...but still
You can see how these deteriorate and crack apart over time. Also you can see where 3 cylinders exhaust is expected to flow through a single port smaller then my thumb

Again.... one word for these when I see them.....YIKES
oh well I am only after the first 4-6" of the down pipes for our use

Now I am installing the front suspension, final design of the custom superlift drop bracket supports, and working to dremel our beloved passenger side cv axle half shaft....stay tuned!!

 

[fordpickupman]

Looking good Jamie!

 

[Mikerider]

looking really good! I have a similar build in the shop. Working on a True Travel 2.5 kit install on a friend truck. it was a strait forward kit for the most part. just need to make some reservoir mounts, sort out the alignment and decide on mounting locations for the hydro bumps in the front and rear. oh and build the rear A arm cross brace. so much to do lol

Some pics:

 

[410Fortune]

Nice to see the gussets for the uca mounts
Good call

How was the pass side cv axle with your kit?

 

[Mikerider]

Nice to see the gussets for the uca mounts
Good call

How was the pass side cv axle with your kit?

Ya the gussets are a must. Cheap insurance, I have had to weld one trucks back on.

No issues with the CV I checked it right away after your nightmare hopfully that means they fixed the issue going forward.

The upper control arms in this kit were a bear to install. Just a touch too small for the ucA mounts.

I need to run in the heim adjusters on the passenger side too, way to much camber.

 

[fordpickupman]

Too bad they can send out new kits and not take care of the issue with your kit.....

That's a great looking Ranger.

 

[Mikerider]

Too bad they can send out new kits and not take care of the issue with your kit.....

That's a great looking Ranger.

Right! their customer service is terrible, took well over 6 months to get the kit and the communication was always oh it will ship next week. That went on for MONTHS while he tried to get the kit.

 

[410Fortune]

I contacted RCV directly again yesterday
Our phone calls to true travel = no response?
Maybe he’s mad at me for this thread? Maybe he is mad because I didn’t fly down to Vegas and help him convert his mountaineer to 4x4? ??
Maybe they don’t like the way I am using their kit with drop brackets? I have no idea, I had lengthy email exchanges with true travel after we bought this kit??
I have customers that get mad at me, I still take care of them. I will do just about anything to keep truck dudes rolling, for me it is not about the $$$ it is about the people and the trucks first
At the end of the day That is all speculation because we are
Left guessing.
What I do know is he won’t write me back or return my calls, also no response when the truck owner calls too… we have been blacklisted? What a bunch of hooey.
Last communication I had was last fall when I was told they should have a solution for us by October of 21….almost 6
Months overdue now and others are getting fixed axles…. Hmmmm

Called RCV directly again yesterday this time technical support, they pulled up my previous emails, I gave them part numbers, he gave me some info. Good news!

RCV is going to help us, I am waiting for a call back from them.
They have not only fixed the issue but they have also sent warranty replacement parts to true travel, yet we are still left in the dark by true travel.
I just want a correct cv axle shees
This is a manufactures defect right out of the box should easily be covered under warranty…


Paint is done front suspension is going on big progress will be made over next three days hang tight!

 

[410Fortune]

So much to catch up on................

When we left off I had finished the paint on the front frame rails and we are ready for final install of the front suspension, also the transfer case was ready to go in
Well the t case is in, I will get some pictures of that
Meanwhile I have been finishing the suspension install and have made LOTS of progress

Let's start with some pics!!

My notes from the last time I installed a 31 spline 8.8 into a lifted ranger (the 300K jasper 306 truck v8 build here)
That is all we need to mock up and start welding!!

RuffStuff kit, some nice stuff!
U bolts are too short, its all right I can use them on an Explorer

the new spring perches come with tabs on them, these would fit a 3" axle tube nicely

Well our 31 spline 8.8 has 3.25" axle tubes, so off with the TWO END tabs, leave the middle for nice weld spacing

much better

Now to center the axle under the truck, and measure the pinion angle
I measure in from each backing plate and check my marks a couple of times
mock up rear axle loosely with new perches, stock blocks, new U bolts (12.5" long), and spring plates.

Once she is close to center I make sure the perches are in EXACTLY the same spot on the axle, distance from backing plates. I also check to ensure they are 38.5" apart center to center, This ensures our axle is centered and our leaf springs are straight

Perfect.

Now to set the pinion angle
Stock Ranger pinion angle is 7 degrees
I know from the last umpteen V8 4406 Rangers I have built that with a 2 u joint rear driveshaft (4406 slip yoke) we want to match the new pinion angle to the tail housing angle on the transfer case. Which is 7 degrees...
Now the Chevy leaf spring setup with the inverted rear shackle is a bit different from other rangers but I am still able to easily set my pinion angle at 7 degrees by measuring 0 degrees at the old explorer spring perches. I always leave the old explorer spring under perches on these axles because:
They have the bolts that retain our brake lines in place
They make an excellent spot for your floor jack
This truck MIGHT go spring under someday down the road
The ranger U bolts will clear every time, the explorer and ranger leaf spring center line distance is within 1/2"

Transfer case was installed
Tailhousing angle was checked
Pinion angle adjusted to exactly 7 degrees
Spring perches can now be tack welded to axle tubes

Time to mock up the new shock mounts

 

[410Fortune]

Some notes on the Kartek rear shackle hangers and how they install with these Chevy 64" 1500 springs

As you can see clearances are very tight. So which direction you install your bolts/nuts is very important

They go this way

We must put a washer underneath between the hanger and the frame / where these bolts go through the frame, this is so we help clearance the factory rivet in this location

another view

view from the back of the truck

I am now torching the old explorer sway bar mounts off of our axle tubes so I can locate/tack weld the rear shock mounts
in the meantime I focused back on our front suspension for a minute