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4r70w bullet proofing

BruceExploder

Well-Known Member
Joined
November 3, 2018
Messages
311
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74
City, State
Edmond OK
Year, Model & Trim Level
1999 Eddie Bauer
So I am about to change my fluid and filter in my 98 5.0. I have 150k on it.

Would it make sense at all to put a valve body with a shift kit in it? Or new solinoids in my current valve body like this kit?

Screenshot_20190410-162213.png


What else can I do other than a rebuild to the whole transmission?
 



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@BruceExploder

Is this going to be your 1st fluid/filter change at 150,000 Miles OR have you been on top of it every 30,000 Miles...
 






@BruceExploder

Is this going to be your 1st fluid/filter change at 150,000 Miles OR have you been on top of it every 30,000 Miles...


History is unknown I bought the car used sat for two years at least. Starting to get a little stutter once it gets warm. Fluid didn't look horrible when I got it but I'd rather do something than nothing. I won't flush just dropping the pan.

The stutter could also be plugs/wires I believe they are original.
 






@BruceExploder

As far as the transmission, based on your answer, I'd just drop the pan and and service it.
Go any further, like digging into valve bodies & replacing solenoids, you're just asking for trouble. BUT - Your mileage may vary...

Valvoline MAX LIFE Full Synthetic is great stuff - $18 a gallon at Walmart. Com
Purchase (2) Gallons and Walmart will deliver if for free to your front door.
What will you do w/ (2) Gallons of Full Synthetic P/S Fluid?
Well - your P/S Fluid is more than likely black, and you can service that too with the Max Life.
Disconnect the low pressure line from the transmission cooler, drain and replace.
Add a 3/8" Magnafine filter on the low pressure line from the trans cooler to the P/S Pump - your steering rack will love you for it ;-)

If you buy a Magnafine filter, buy about 3-4 feet of NEW 3/8" Oil Cooler Rather line to use as low pressure P/S line. Your original line is more than likely due for a change.
It's probably "welded" to the trans cooler and will have to be cut off to remove.
Don't forget new hose clamps.

New Motorcraft Wires & Champion Double Platinum Plugs (properly gapped) will smooth out your idle. Don't forget to re-set the Ex's computer after replacing both. The computer compensates as these components get old. Resetting it brings you back to original specs. Wouldn't hurt to clean the MAF with MAF Cleaner, and add a new air filter just to round it all out - just saying...

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Magnafine P/S Filter Link: New Magnefine 3/8" Inline Magnetic Power Steering Filter | eBay

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Good luck and hope that helps!
 






- DITTO the above.

"Would it make sense at all to put a valve body with a shift kit in it? Or new solenoids in my current valve body like this kit?"

- Absolutely NOT... the 98 4r70w Valve Body & Separator Plate was fairly sorted out... BTW that Cork Pan Gasket in pic is total crap... If u don't have the Reusable Ford Gasket DEFINITELY get one~!

"What else can I do other than a rebuild to the whole transmission?"

- Get a Dorman Pan with Drain plug to make ur Fluid & Filter changes easier.

"I won't flush just dropping the pan.'

- 4 to 5 Qts of Merc V & Filter every 30k miles is way better than ANY Flush-only.

"The stutter could also be plugs/wires I believe they are original."

- WAY more likely it IS wires & plugs than the 98 spec 4r70w.
 












- DITTO the above.

"Would it make sense at all to put a valve body with a shift kit in it? Or new solenoids in my current valve body like this kit?"

- Absolutely NOT... the 98 4r70w Valve Body & Separator Plate was fairly sorted out... & BTW that Cork Pan Gasket in pic is total crap.

"What else can I do other than a rebuild to the whole transmission?"

- Get a Dorman Pan with Drain plug to make ur Fluid & Filter changes easier.

"I won't flush just dropping the pan.'

- 4 to 5 Qts of Merc V & Filter every 30k miles is way better than ANY Flush-only.

"The stutter could also be plugs/wires I believe they are original."

- WAY more likely it IS wires & plugs than the 98 spec 4r70w.


Man you guys are always helping a newbie like me out thank you. The only reason I considered a valve body also in the equation was I put a shiftkited one in a 5r55e and it was like driving a brand new car after that fixed every issue I had and the car shifted a ton better. Since I haven't done anything with a 4r70w I didn't know how much it would help.

I will buy the pan, filter, fluid and the inline filter along with plugs and wires. I just want it to last and avoid developing the harsh thud my 99 has when it gets warm at 270k I'm literally scared to even touch the fluid in it.
 






I agree with these guys
98 4r70w is already setup well, the valve body has most of the updates. A shift improver kit is not really needed, you can look into doing the "J mod" I believe its called to one of the springs while you are in there.
Software tuning is a better way to improve the shift points of the 4r70w in the explorer.

With that said add a drain plug to your trans pan or get the dorman pan that already has one built in
Use a good trans filter like Motorcraft or Wix and buy two of them
Drop your pan and let it drip
Rotate your crank until you can see the converter drain through the access port
Drain the converter and let it drip
You will lose only 5 quarts or so through the pan drop another quart or so out of the converter
The system holds about 14 quarts
The factory pan gasket is re useable, re use it.
Re-install the pan and bring the trans up to level, drive it for a week
Drain the pan & converter again
replace 5-6 quarts
Drive it again, week or longer
On the 3rd or 4th pan drain drop the pan again and replace the filter one more time
Now you are good to go
With 150K on that trans if you drain the fluid and change the filter a couple of times this summer, follow that up with a yearly pan and converter drain your 4r70w can last forever (ok ok maybe not forever but we do see well over 300K from these suckers)

The 5r55e is plagued with valve body issues, it is also a far more complex transmission then the 4r70w, be happy you own a 4r70w
 






All good advice.

I changed the valve body . . . . no difference.

Also check the 2 ignition coils. One of mine was cracked.

Check the fuel filter and pressure. My pump failed at about 160,000. Very inconvenient if you are 2 hours from home.

I did not think of the coils I will check them too. My fuel pump is good I'm fairly certain but I do need to change the filter. I can hear the pump priming when I put the key to on easily and usually starts immediately after the first start of the day.
 






5r55e was NEVER "fairly sorted out" by Ford... its a Light Duty POS...

& Yes the vast majority of the J Mod is already done on a 98 Sep plate - Now theres all kindsa great Sonnax.com Parts u can put in it to make it 'bulletproof' but definitely wait until ur Rebuild for all that.
 






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